[B][B]Camshaft wrench broke..

[Jags]

I used a camshaft wrench tool and tried to loosen bolt. Someone used a shit load of lock tight or torqued it way past 44pds. Snapped the holding pin on tool. Question..can I just take all cam bolts loose and tilt it off chain? The guide is busted on #4 exhaust valve and the head is cracked. Got a new head with cam already to install. I figured it cant hurt to try. Any ideas? Gonna see if they will warranty the wrench..doubt it!

 

[Jags]

Also..Secondary tensioner is already out. chain guide is out. Seems to be enough slack to try it. On another note...how do I guide my title in Bold? Thnx

 

[ltd02]

I used a camshaft wrench tool and tried to loosen bolt. Someone used a shit load of lock tight or torqued it way past 44pds. Snapped the holding pin on tool. Question..can I just take all cam bolts loose and tilt it off chain? The guide is busted on #4 exhaust valve and the head is cracked. Got a new head with cam already to install. I figured it cant hurt to try. Any ideas? Gonna see if they will warranty the wrench..doubt it!

If you just unbolt the secondary tensioners and guides, the chain should slip right off.

I had a wrench like that too that broke a while back. Was the cheaper version. If you have a sacrificial allen wrench of the right size you can trim it to slide in where the pin snapped. The allen wrench I used was way more sturdy than the goofy little pin.

 

[Jags]

I have the chains locked with tool. Also put a zip tie thru it so I wouldnt jump timing. I will try an allen. That pin that broke seems to be made of cheap material. Yes It was a cheap wrench (Im Dutch). Let me know how to type title in bold so I dont look like a newbie that I am...

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Don't know that you can type the title of a post in a bold font - seems to get enough attention without needing to bold it...

Since your cylinder head is already trashed you can just take off the cam bolts and tilt the cam so the chain comes off the sprocket. On the new head just take off the sprocket (but lock the cam so it is in TDC position) when you reinstall it to get everything lined up.

That engine looks very clean for needing a new head. The chains are normally brownish orange after a few thousand miles. Did you previously change the timing chains?

Bob

 

[Jags]

I just bought the jeep. The engine is a new crate motor. Has 40,000 on it now. Warranty was up on motor in Feb. He didnt want to put any more money into jeep. Started to tick and blow white exhaust. I can wiggle #4 exhaust spring. I assume guide came out of valve. Compression is 150 on all 6. I have to assume when guide came out it cracked head. Wont know till I get head off. Jeep is a limited with no rust. I got it for $800...

 

[mx3_ryder]

That tool should only be used to rotate and hold cam during timing. It is not made strong enough imo to hold the cam to take sprocket bolt out or torque to the bolts to the 90 ft lbs. per fsm. The cam sprocket bolts have thread sealer applied @ the factory. I used an impact to get the bolts out and they do come out hard. There is a spot behind the sprocket on the cam that sort of looks like a lobe, that you can hold onto with a pair of channel locks when torquing bolts. I opted for the channel locks instead of purchasing a spanner wrench. Just have someone hold the channel locks while you torque the bolts or vise versa.

 

[libertybob]

Assumptions...

I would not assume the head is cracked. Try to remove the cam gear and head without damaging the head any farther. I have often found that my assumptions as to what was defective proved wrong when getting the engine torn apart. I would remove the head and then decide how to proceed. Your problem may be far less serious than you think. Let facts be your guide.

 

[ltd02]

That tool should only be used to rotate and hold cam during timing. It is not made strong enough imo to hold the cam to take sprocket bolt out or torque to the bolts to the 90 ft lbs. per fsm. The cam sprocket bolts have thread sealer applied @ the factory. I used an impact to get the bolts out and they do come out hard. There is a spot behind the sprocket on the cam that sort of looks like a lobe, that you can hold onto with a pair of channel locks when torquing bolts. I opted for the channel locks instead of purchasing a spanner wrench. Just have someone hold the channel locks while you torque the bolts or vise versa.

This is definitely true. I snapped mine before I knew better ,but the allen wrench piece has made it functional for just rotating it like mx3 said. The FSM has that nifty method for properly torqueing the cam bolts with a spanner which I now have. I'd also just use an impact to remove in the future.

I see you've got a 2012 in yours. I'll be swapping within the next year or so. Rod knock is getting annoying.

 

[Jags]

I was just thinking this morning how to put it back together. I was gonna take new cam off head and put sprocket on first. Then, reassemble. Or should I just break down and buy spanner. How much was it?

 

[mx3_ryder]

I was just thinking this morning how to put it back together. I was gonna take new cam off head and put sprocket on first. Then, reassemble. Or should I just break down and buy spanner. How much was it?

Do you have an impact or access to one?

 

[mx3_ryder]

Did you remove the entire timing assy or just take the secondary chain off the one side? Help us so we can help you... :gr_grin:

 

[Jags]

I have an electric impact. I only took off passenger side. Timing chain cover is off. I have lock tool on chains. Took off guide and secondary tensioner. Gonna call today and see if they will warranty wrench. Thanks for the help.

 

[mx3_ryder]

You might get away with just unbolting camshaft and placing chain over sprocket and bolting camshaft back on if you can't get the sprocket bolt out. Make sure to follow proper cam bolt torque and sequence. Also, make sure you change the oil after you put a few miles on if not rebuilding bottom. Good luck!!