Discussion in 'KJ General Discussion' started by first&lastKJ, May 7, 2019.
They say this is the best they can do.
07 lifted and sitting at 21.5 both sides front. Stock upper a arms.
Do I need to find another shop ?
I just got back from another shop. The alignment tech said ''Everything is maxed out and you need to add positive camber.'' I'm at a loss.
Will JBA's arms solve this issue?
I think you will find a better alignment with a tall coffee ha ha & some JBA arms.
Lifted alignment specs should be improved with the new a-arms, and use the stock specs but Caster should fall between 2.5 to 3 degrees.
IDK but I have heard something about to zero the cam bolts first- Tom May know...
What exactly is different about the JBA's vs stock when it comes to alignments?
Are they longer?
How do they correct alignment issues on lifted kj's?
Just ordered JBA upper a arms. Hope this solves my issues.
Loner by just a bit and better angle for ball joint
You do not need JBA arms at 2.5 inches of lift
They are a nice upgrade and may help, but ran a lot of miles at 2.5-3 inches before the arms ever came out back in the day when Al Handy was still making them ( before Marlin took over and bought out Al)
Yes, I agree I shouldn't need JBA arms. But the shop says I need more positive camber. JBA's should help, correct?
It took me four different shops till I found one that could align a lifted KJ. Unfortunately that meant paying for all four alignments but I needed it done or I couldn’t drive it. Stay away from chain stores as they usually have younger kids doing alignments and they don’t know what they are doing. I found an old mom and pop type shop in town that has now done 4 KJs for me without issue.
I posted in your Rusty's Lift Kit thread/posting... but I'll state it again here, no reason why at LEAST toe should not be in spec unless your tie rod ends are damaged/worn out. None.
Camber/caster... sure.. I could see that being off, but not by much so long as your lower control arm camber bolts are not siezed. Three of my four are, and my camber and caster is much MUCH better than those specs on yours, I've got 3" of lift with OME/Bilstein and top plates with STOCK UCA's.
Belle Tire did mine... the store I go to has an older, experienced alignment guy who only does alignments, that's his only job at that store. They/he do all the alignments for the local 4x4/Offroad shop just down the road from them. So they get a lot of experience on many different trucks. Worked out well for me.
First two times I took it to a tire shop, they do alot of alignments. They charged $30 first time, nothing the second. Then I tried Burke springs and alignments cost another $42. Burke seemed the most knowledgeable. They took me into the shop and showed me what all the current settings were and explained why they couldn't align it. And I didn't understand any of it other than I needed more positive camber.
Tie rods are tight no play at all.
I had three LCA bolts siezed. I soaked them with PB blaster and got all four to break free.
Local place Burke spring and alignment are supposed to be the best, They said I need more positive camber.
Going to install the JBA's for lifted liberty and take it back. One of the videos on JBA's web site Marlon said to tell the shop to set camber and toe to factory specs and let the caster fall where it does.
I've had good luck at my dealer...$40 and it's always in spec and drives perfect after.
And I could use some luck.
Yep, just at the Jeep dealer. And I wouldn't even say my dealer is great, they're pretty average.
Completely agree with this. I believe the strategy for lifted KJs is set Camber, set toe, leave caster.
A good shop will also make sure that cross-caster is within spec. or damn close to it, even it they let it fall where it may. That helps on returning the steering wheel to center after a turn. Not huge, and not a tire-wearing figure, but it helps in drive-ability and making it as it should be.
JBA arms should be here tomorrow.
Has anyone had issues with LCA bolts moving AFTER the alignment.
I did my LCA/balljoint swap, got it aligned, was happy with their setup (not perfect, but almost all in spec) and so I marked the bolts and nuts with torque seal before I left their shop.
After several days of city/highway driving and some moderate wheeling, all 4 bolts have moved, front left about 1/4" in the rest less, but all moved in. I checked torque and all "clicked" with my wrench set to 125 ftlbs without turning, so they should be at least that tight.
I have not paid this much attention before, so maybe they moved after past alignments too, but wondering if anyone else has had this happen and if I should worry about it.
Drives fine and I wouldn't have known if I didn't mark them right away and then check last night after wheeling.
Thinking I should get the alignment checked and then either put back in alignment or left as is.
Wondering how much I should torque these if 125 lets them move still, would 150 be enough? Anything more than that and I worry about snapping the bolt.
JBA arms are installed.
They were sitting on the deck when I got home. These thing are NICE!
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