A fix for fuel burp issue on 2006 liberty

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Joewild

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Hello
There is a cheap way to fix this problem but it requires working around your gas tank. If you are not comfortable doing this yourself you may want to suggest this to your mechanic. I guess I should explain why you would have this problem in the first place. There is a valve that is placed by the filler tube inside the gas tank. You can see the valve when you pull off the filler hose. The valve is there to prevent gas from pouring out of your vehicle in an event of a roll over. The valve has a rubber seal on it that when you use gas with ethanol in it, it will cause the rubber seal to expand making it so it will no longer close all the way. So when you fill your gas tank all the way, gas is pushed back up through the open valve when there is trapped air pressure in your tank causing your tank to burp out gas. I really don’t understand why Chrysler has not come up with a fix for their product. I guess they don’t want to admit that there is a problem, (another recall). Another solution would be to find a gas station that does not sell gas with ethanol in it. I live in the Denver area and we require emissions testing on our vehicles, so most gas stations sell gas with it. I have read other people’s theories on this gas burping issue, and after looking at the problem for myself this was my take on the problem.

The fix for this is installing a second valve inside the filler hose. I used the valve out of a hose from GM Part number 15131046HOSE; it will cost around $19.00 with shipping around $28.00. As I understand the hose assembly 15131046HOSE was a fix for some of the GM vehicles that have this same problem with the gas tank burping. You will have to cut the valve out of the hose that it comes in. You cannot use the new hose assembly because it is not long enough. In some other jeep applications you can just switch out hoses with some modifying, but with 2006 liberty you need to use the stock hose. When you get the new hose (15131046HOSE) cut around the middle of the valve. Use care not to cut into the valve itself for it is only plastic. Now I had removed the filler hose from the jeep but I found that you may only have to remove the tank side of the filler hose. The hose comes right off on this side but on the filler neck side you will have problems separating the hose from the neck, so if you don’t have to remove it, I would leave it in place and just work on it from the tank side. This is the most important part of the install, make sure that the valve is installed at 12:00 o’clock and that the valve flap opens up toward the tank. If you have the valve in front of you it should be in a closed position, if the flap is open then you have it upside down. Gravity needs to shut the valve by itself. Gas needs to flow through the valve from the filler neck into the tank so the flap needs to open toward the tank. If installed wrong you will not be able to fill your tank or you may still have a burping problem if the valve was not installed at a 12:00 o’clock position.

Install the valve from the tank side of the hose. You may have to pull the hose out of the slot in the frame in order to work on it. Before pulling it out mark the very top of the hose that goes through the frame that way you will know where 12:00 o’clock position is on the hose. Use motor oil on a rag, grab the oiled rag with a pair of needle nose pliers and oil the inside of the hose as far up as you can. This will greatly aid in installing the valve up inside the hose. I used a deep well socket that is slightly smaller than the valve to push the valve inside the hose. There is a slight bend in the hose which bends into a level spot in the hose where the hose goes through the frame of the jeep. This is where we want the valve to end up. Just on the other side of the slight bend will work just fine. Using a deep well socket will help keep the valve squared up inside the hose. Get the valve as close to 12:00 o’clock has possible. Try to make sure that the valve is square inside the hose. If it is a little bit off it may not hurt anything but it may cause the valve to bind up and we don’t want that. The valve is bigger than the hose so you will have to push a little to get it in place. You can see where the valve is from the outside of the hose and also see if it is squared up somewhat. You may have to use an extension on the socket to get the valve in position but make sure that you can get your socket out with your needle nose pliers when you are in position.

You will have to pull out the plastic wheel well out from the jeep to gain access to the filler tube. You will have to replace some plastic rivets that hold it in place. The use of a service manual will help you locate where all the fasteners are. I hope that you found this article useful and if you install the valve correctly it will fix your burping problem. I would also like to recommend a video to watch on You Tube, it will give you some idea of what to expect. Jeep Wrangler fuel overflow repair You Tube. You do not have to remove the filler neck on the jeep liberty. I think that there is a little less work involved installing the valve on the liberty then what was shown on the video. Good Luck!
Joewild
 

profdlp

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Joe, that sounds like something I will need to be doing. I have had a few instances where this has "not" happened and I'll bet it was non-Ethanol gas. Thanks for the great tip! :hail:
 

ol-flattop

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Anyone else done this successfully? I've had this problem on my '06 Limited since I bought it about a year ago. I bought the GM part, cut out the valve, and was preparing to install it, but I wasn't able to get the KJ hose off the tank - there just didn't seem to be enough room for it to clear the mouth (the cold-induced stiffness of the hose didn't help). I'm sure if I could get the fender and well out of the way, I'd be able to get the hose off the tank easily, but the plastic rivets are not the kind I was expecting. They look like single-use items, so I didn't want to rip them all out, then be unable to put them back.

Ideas? Experience? Advice?
 

MarkJ

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I have the GM hose and will be trying just this. Thanks Joewild.
 

SeventyGTX

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Anyone else done this successfully? I've had this problem on my '06 Limited since I bought it about a year ago. I bought the GM part, cut out the valve, and was preparing to install it, but I wasn't able to get the KJ hose off the tank - there just didn't seem to be enough room for it to clear the mouth (the cold-induced stiffness of the hose didn't help). I'm sure if I could get the fender and well out of the way, I'd be able to get the hose off the tank easily, but the plastic rivets are not the kind I was expecting. They look like single-use items, so I didn't want to rip them all out, then be unable to put them back.

Ideas? Experience? Advice?

I have dealt with plenty of those plastic rivets as a body tech my entire life. I could usually take a stiff, fairly narrow putty knife and whack the head off with a hammer. Just be careful you don't gouge the flare. If the rivets are loose, you can sometimes get some sidecutters in there to cut the heads off.

There is a special tool for those rivets and I have one, but got it from one of the tool trucks that came to the shop. I imagine Harbor Freight would have one. I have no idea where you would buy the rivets outside of specialty fastener stores like Fastenal. Again, Harbor Freight may have them, but I really don't know. If you find the rivets, get the longer ones. The short ones may be too short. This is what my plastic rivet tool looks like....

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