2008 Liberty Limited Oil Filter

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David13

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Had a lot of fun today changing the oil and filter.

The oil plug was on so tight I had to get out the impact to get it off. Torqued it back on. There were no oil leaks on the ground after a month, but some started when I got going in there.

Then for the filter. That's a real joke there.

I see they even have a plastic chute or trough to allow the filter to leak because it's so difficult to tighten it on. Yes, it was hella loose. Easily came off in my hand. So, yes, of course it would leak.

I put the new one on a lot tighter.

But of course I had to go to the internet to find a good way to get in there. Which turned out to be take off the front grill and driver's side headlight and go it. Which worked fine. It was loose. And started dripping as soon as it was turned. But I had my second pan under the drain trough.

The grill came out hard. They said pull til you think it will break but it wont. I pulled to where I thought it would break, and then TWANG! It popped off.

I know, why don't I just pay someone else to do it. Because I won't know what they did, if they did it, or how to do it that way.

So I got a lot of aches and pains from crawling on the concrete and in the snow but some free education.

And I see a lot of oil down there which might indicate leaks or might just be the oil filter leaking when running because it's way too loose. Now it's tight. So I need to clean it all up and then see.
dc
 

David13

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You are absolutely right Tom, I shoulda got the KJ.

But, I didn't.

I'm happy.

Next I think is ATF and filter. The at pan looks a little rusty and a little poked, from a rock maybe, or something. I'll buff it and put some paint on it.

Also my rear transmission cross brace is looking rather rusty, on the surface. What paint can I put on that? Rustoleum?
dc
 

LibertyTC

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Don't forget about the oil pan. Keep them clean, & a coat or two of fast dry, high temp spray paint before each winter, if your in the salty rust belt.
ATF+4 trans pan once it is off, clean/ sand/prep it up good, and use a fast dry, high temp spray paint there as well. Trans pan gets super hot.
Rustoleum is ok paint for the cross member. A thicker coat of actual canned spray undercoating is probably better.
 

David13

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Don't forget about the oil pan. Keep them clean, & a coat or two of fast dry, high temp spray paint before each winter, if your in the salty rust belt.
ATF+4 trans pan once it is off, clean/ sand/prep it up good, and use a fast dry, high temp spray paint there as well. Trans pan gets super hot.
Rustoleum is ok paint for the cross member. A thicker coat of actual canned spray undercoating is probably better.


Oil pan looks normal. No rust or bangs, but I like your idea of some paint on it.

Since I'll have to have the at pan out I'll assess it then and even see if I should just replace it. Good to know about the temp on that.

There is salt and some other crazy road/snow/ice stuff, but not really rust. It's just too dry here. Looking under my Honda on the 4th winter here and there is nothing. I remember Michigan from my youth, and the near immediate red on any bare metal.

44 years in Los Angeles, and bare metal there had no rust even after years. Just too dry. I know it's actually dryer here and it's about the same. No red, no rust at all, unless it's somewhere water is staying around. It is just very dry here. Unbelievably dry for someone from the rust belt.

This Jeep came from Illinois by way of Nevada so the rust would actually be from the rust belt, I think.

I did order a quart of POR 15 which I will use on the cross member, after wire brushing it, maybe even power wire brush.

Thanks
dc
 

LibertyTC

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You are on the right track!! Dry is good! Salt & that road spray/sodium chloride crap, which turns to powder is bad!
Power washing the underside & rear back braking plates is great normal maintenance !
I'm constantly having to touch mine up. I am super picky !;)
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Years ago I had the whole Jeep undercoated with Platinum Shield. It's going back this summer for another coat!
 

lfhoward

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Oil change is a pain on the KK for sure. Tom saw me change the filter once, asked if all that grunting and groaning as I was trying to stretch and reach it meant I was having fun. o_O

I use an extension and an oil filter wrench socket that fits over the end of the filter. It gives me a little more leverage and reach. (Reaching it with a skid plate on is harder than without.) I also try to buy the filters that have the gritty bedliner-like coating on them for more grip. I’ve never tried changing the filter through the grill/headlight opening. Seems like a lot of extra work to me.
 

LibertyTC

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Sounds like KK fun indeed! ;) Good you have the filter end attachment.
Another option would be to use the K&N filter with the 1 inch nut on the bottom.
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