2006 Jeep Liberty A/C problem

[nnote]

History:
Bought the Jeep about 4 months ago. Loving it!
A/C worked fine. Was cleaning under the hood and doing general maintanance. Noticed on the low pressure side that the pin in the schrader (sp) valve was completely bent over. Bent it back into place. (shouldn't have touched it). A/C worked fine for about a day and then stopped blowing cold air. Noticed the compressor wasn't kicking on. Fiqured the valve leaked all the freon out.
Took it to a shop and they replaced faulty schrader and vacuated the system and replaced freon to pressure. A/C compressor still doesn't kick on. They replaced a cycle switch and now the A/C will kick on for about 8-10 minutes, then it stops and blows hot air again. Compressor (which is only about a year old) doesn't kick on. Turn the Jeep off, turn it on and the air works again for about 8-10 minutes.... rinse cycle and repeat...
Any thoughts? Im already $450 bucks in and had to pick the jeep up from the shop as I couldn't be without transportation.

 

[nnote]

So I finally got a chance to get to look at it all myself today. Drove around for about 40 minutes, about 15 minutes into my drive the air started warming up and though not quite as hot as outside air it was probably blowing around 80 degree air. Pulled into my house and opened the hood (with jeep running) and the compressor is engaged. Turned off the A/C and the compresser disingaged and the air from the vents got hotter. Turned on the A/C and the compressor engaged and the air cooled, but just slightly. For sure not A/C cold.

 

[tjkj2002]

Sounds like a low charge in the system which is freezing the evap core.

 

[nnote]

It does seem like all is good except it's freezing and plugging. And also apart from the shop I took it to evacuated it and filled it back to pressure. ? The low pressure hose is cold and the high pressure is stinkin hot.

 

[uss2defiant]

The low pressure hose is cold and the high pressure is stinkin hot.

that's how it is.

This should really be part of the shop's diagnosis and cost.
Can't believe you've already spent $450 for zero diagnosis.

 

[nnote]

Ya, stinking 450... Im really not sure if ima take it back to them and have them continue, or go elsewhere and start fresh..and with a new diagnostic fee. If I take it back to the original shop they are going to start where they left off, no new fees. It's always been a good place to go, but this last visit certainly left a sour taste for me.
I have a can-o-air with a guage and hose... not sure if I want to muck with it though.

 

[uss2defiant]

yeah...
you've already paid so much already. Might as well bring it back to the shop.
still can't believe all that work for $450....

 

[renegade 04]

I am also going to say that it sounds like a freezing Evap core, because the compressor shuts off if the core either ices over or if the charge in the lines is to low.

 

[nnote]

Is that still a factor as once it goes warm, open the hood and still see that compressor clutch is engaged and spinning?

 

[renegade 04]

The other thing could be that the dryer and the orifice need to be replaced when the compressor was replaced and if there weren't that could be the issue.

 

[J33Pfan]

since it worked good before the pin damage, sounds like they didnt put enough Freon in it

as mentioned, the dryer and the orifice might need to be replaced. if your system was emptied out, this should have been thought about since the system was empty -as a maintenance procedure. or was it changed with the compressor already?

and yea, $450 for freon and a schrader valve is $350 too much!

 

[nnote]

Im not sure if the dryer was changed with the compressor. It was the previous owner who changed the compressor about a year ago, although it looks brand new. Although for a 2006 everything under the hood looks very good and new so I can't tell. There's a series of 8 digit number labels stuck to alot of the parts, like under the gas cap hinge and other places, that make me believe it was a rental which got it's scheduled regular maintenance done. Numbers like it was some kind of a fleet vehicle.
Ima go out and stick the can o air on it in a few and see what happens. It has a simple gauge on it, but nothing to go by on on any type of accuracy.
The shop also replaced a cycle switch. But still...

 

[nnote]

Checked the drier, it is actually stamped 5/5/2014 so probably good there. Turned on the Jeep and AC and with just gauge attached showed 45 pounds. Put can o air and brought it up to 60. (90 degrees outside) Stayed cold for the 10 minutes it took to ran it and charge it, but I will see for real when I commute to work tomorrow. It was taking 10 to 15 minutes for it to go to warm air.

 

[uss2defiant]

using one of those is a shot in the dark.

it really depends on the low side and high side pressures and the ambient temperature.

also you don't really know how much refrigerant total is in the system.

knock on wood for ya.

 

[nnote]

Finally got a chance to turn on the air last night for a 40 minute commute. Worked the hole way home. Worked, but the temp varied quite a lot during the whole drive. Some cold some mediocre but never as hot as outside temp. I tried to pin down the mediocre to acceleration times, but it didn't match up.

 

[uss2defiant]

put a meat thermometer in your vent to check the temp.

Like I said, it's a shot in the dark. best to bring it back to the shop.
The most I've done myself is replaced hardware and the shop does the rest.

It's getting real hot now.

 

[LibertyTC]

Here is the drivers side vent air temp specs, Jeep is not the coldest A/C on the block:
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You must be registered for see images attach

& this is where the low/high side values should be.
58965[/ATTACH]"]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[uss2defiant]

LAPS have AC manifold gauges on their tool loaner programs.

 

[nnote]

I have a meat thermometer somewhere in the house... I'll have to find it. 45?! Geez! I'd take it!

 

[uss2defiant]

im about 50F with my AC.
It's just so dang hot here it only helps a little.

you should grab a UV light to find any leaks as well.

but bring it back to the shop since it's part of the diagnosis. isn't it?