2005 Jeep Liberty 3.7 4x4 throwing multiple codes

[Cbach]

To start off the codes are P0344, P0430, P0420, P0330 and P0325. I’ve gone on YouTube and I’ve googled all there is about those codes. I just want to hear if anyone else has had to deal with any of these and what the possible solutions are. Another thing. Every now and then the car will go into limp mode for some reason. Don’t know why. Hoping it’s not the transmission.

 

[DadOSix]

Interesting set of codes!

My first thought - check the ground straps from the firewall to the back of each head. One on each side.

They are usually eaten up and corroded.

The knock sensor bit has me stymied.

How is it running in general?

Any power?

Noisy?

Miles?

Don't start throwing parts based on codes alone.

 

[Cbach]

Interesting set of codes!

My first thought - check the ground straps from the firewall to the back of each head. One on each side.

They are usually eaten up and corroded.

The knock sensor bit has me stymied.

How is it running in general?

Any power?

Noisy?

Miles?

Don't start throwing parts based on codes alone.

Starting up can be finicky sometimes. Takes usually once or twice of turning the key before it turns on. But power I guess is good. It’s not noisy although I would say it doesn’t sound like it’s running the best. Currently miles are 128000

 

[LibertyTC]

Here is the listing of codes.
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Intermittent
P0430, P0420 catalytic related
P0330 Knock Sensor #2 Circuit
P0325 Knock Sensor #1 Circuit
Was a good shop scanner used to obtain these codes?

 

[Cbach]

Here is the listing of codes.
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Intermittent
P0430, P0420 catalytic related
P0330 Knock Sensor #2 Circuit
P0325 Knock Sensor #1 Circuit
Was a good shop scanner used to obtain these codes?

No. Just your average obd2 scanner.

 

[LibertyTC]

It might be worthwhile to have it scanned by a good shop scanner, Like a snap on Ultra modis.
It will be more accurate in codes and often can better identify them to help make repair recommendations.
I'd be looking closely at the catalytic converters performance as well with a sniffer & to make sure they are not plugged for starters.
It's also best to start with fresh spark plugs & use only NGK ZRF6F-11G gap at .040 inch.

 

[Cbach]

It might be worthwhile to have it scanned by a good shop scanner, Like a snap on Ultra modis.
It will be more accurate in codes and often can better identify them to help make repair recommendations.
I'd be looking closely at the catalytic converters performance as well with a sniffer & to make sure they are not plugged for starters.
It's also best to start with fresh spark plugs & use only NGK ZRF6F-11G gap at .040 inch.

I mean I could try that. I replaced all the spark plugs and coil packs when last July.

 

[LibertyTC]

Did you use the NGK copper core as above?

 

[Cbach]

Ahh couldn’t tell you. It’s been some time

 

[LibertyTC]

I'd remove 1 plug to make sure you have the correct ones in there..

 

[Ksat]

The p0420/430 codes mean your catalytic converters are no longer cleaning up the exhaust at the level they're expected to. An exhaust leak somewhere after the upstream O2 but before the cat converter itself can supposedly cause this code, too, but since you have this code on both banks, that's probably not what's happening.

The cam sensor code may be related to your difficult start situation. The sensor should be checked to make sure it's getting power, ground and that it's outputting its 5V signal. You can do this with a capable multimeter, but it's best to do with a scope. Comparing both cam and crank sensor output signal to each other on a scope can provide even more in-depth analysis on whether the former is working correctly as well.