2004 Jeep kj 2.8 crd EGR Removal

[dewo]

Hi There, I'm struggling to get information on how to remove my egr completely on my jeep, this incld cooler, egr valve, pipes ext. I know there's a mod to block off the 2 vacuum pipes to bypass the egr, but I'm looking to remove the whole system and block it off where necessary. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Billwill]

Why remove the whole system when you only need to block off one of the small pipes at the EGR solenoid behind the air-filter? I am assuming the 2004 model still uses the fixed-vane turbo and has no sensors on the air filter?

You can go to LOST JEEPS • Index page
and ask your question in the "Liberty CRD Love The Torque" section but bear in mind that there are differences between our Export models and the USA models and the USA only had the 2005/6 models with variable vane turbos and sensors on the air-filter to sense if anyone had disabled the EGR so any information regarding programming the ECM so as to not get a CEL is not valid anymore.

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

Hi There, I'm struggling to get information on how to remove my egr completely on my jeep, this incld cooler, egr valve, pipes ext. I know there's a mod to block off the 2 vacuum pipes to bypass the egr, but I'm looking to remove the whole system and block it off where necessary. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[FONT=&quot]Firstly, what differences are there between the 2004 model sold in South Africa, and the 2005 - 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD vehicles sold here in North America? There is a fellow here who sells an intake elbow kit that completely removes the EGR and the Flow Control Valve off of the North American models. This gets rid of some terrible, failure-prone parts, and provides for a smooth intake of fresh air into the engine, but there is some risk to installing one.

In the North American models, the EGR valve doubles as a turbocharger blow-off valve during driving conditions that can cause a spike in turbo boost pressure. In some cases, the spike in pressure can be so great as to destroy the turbo. Admittedly this is a very rare condition, but it is enough of a risk that a lot of people, including Keith at Green Diesel Engineering, (who is the most respected up-grader of Diesel Jeeps in North America), to NOT install the current intake elbow offered in his own Liberty CRD.

I am developing a superior version of the intake elbow kit currently being offered. My version will offer superior materials, and plugged threaded ports where aftermarket items like turbo boost gauge sending units, and a 1" hose barb for a turbo blow off valve can be installed. A turbo blow off valve is the item that will protect your turbocharger during those times while driving when a spike in boost pressure can happen.

I am also the only manufacturer in the entire world of an aftermarket engine thermostat for the V.M. Motori R428 turbo-diesel engine. Part of the problems that occur with the R428 engine, (at least here in North America, and I suspect, in Europe), stem from the terrible engine thermostat it is saddled with. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]It is an assembly; meaning that, until recently, no aftermarket manufacturer would touch it, forcing the owner to go through the car dealers or V.M. Motori diesel parts importers to get an original equipment part replacement. The O.E. part is terrible... it is expensive, costly to replace, it fails every 40 to 60,000 kms, and it is not even manufactured with reasonable opening temperatures as they make the engine run way too cool. The bad pollution control systems that are on any of the diesel engine vehicles manufactured in the past 10 years operate even worse if the engine is not running hot.

My engine thermostat solves all of these issues, and makes thermostat valve change outs inexpensive and easy to do. Check out my photo gallery, or the following thread on LOSTJEEPS.com.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] LOST JEEPS • View topic - ADD YOUR NAME HERE IF YOU WANT A NEW DESIGN THERMOSTAT.

[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Real feedback starts on page 14, so this is the page I have linked. Feel free to read the entire thread over, and I think you will see that I am indeed serious about Jeep Liberty/Cherokee Diesel upgrades. [/FONT]

 

[dewo]

Hi Bill, Yes no sensors on the airfilter. I'm from South Africa, here it's called the Jeep Cherokee. It should be the same as the Euro models.

 

[dewo]

Thank you Jeff. If the egr system is not used it might as well be removed right?

 

[Billwill]

Hi Bill, Yes no sensors on the airfilter. I'm from South Africa, here it's called the Jeep Cherokee. It should be the same as the Euro models.

Yep I know Centurion well...covered that area and Pretoria East about 9 and a half years ago before retiring early here in White River.

I have the 2002 2.5 CRD manual Cherokee and disabled the EGR from opening by removing one of the small rubber pipes going to the black plastic solenoid in front of the air-filter. Then screw a small self-tapping screw into the exposed plastic nipple and place the rubber pipe back in place over the screw head.

I find the engine has lots more power when cruising at high speeds and cresting hills and do not like the idea of having hot exhaust ash particles feeding directly into the intake manifold. Not much chance of blow-back from the turbo on our engines as it use a waste gate....the elbow kit mentioned above will not fit our motors and I have had no problems at all with the thermostat or the glow plugs which on our Export motors are simple 11 volt plugs powered by two large relays as apposed to the problems the newer 2005/6/7 models have with 7 volt or 5 volt glow plugs.

All in all the early Export KJs have less "Nannies" checking everything and so tend to be more reliable...I have just had the timing belt changed by the Dealers for R10,000....not because of mileage but because it is almost 7 years since last replacement and rubber goes bad with time!:icon_smile:

 

[dewo]

White River / Sabie some of the best places to go on holiday in SA.

I've done the vacuum hose block, if there's no way to remove the hole egr system then that should do.

I can feel the difference or it might be the dastek unichip, not sure.

I'll keep that in mind mine is on 155,000km now, next big thing will be the timing chain.

Bill, where would u recon is the best place in Pretoria/Centurion to find jeep parts? my rear control arm bushes need replacement.

 

[Billwill]

White River / Sabie some of the best places to go on holiday in SA.

I've done the vacuum hose block, if there's no way to remove the hole egr system then that should do.

I can feel the difference or it might be the dastek unichip, not sure.

I'll keep that in mind mine is on 155,000km now, next big thing will be the timing chain.

Bill, where would u recon is the best place in Pretoria/Centurion to find jeep parts? my rear control arm bushes need replacement.

During my time using the Jeep in PTA I never needed to buy parts....only had the regular services performed by McCarthy near Fountains. For some reason or other McCarthy decided to replace my timing belt at the 80,000 km (50,000 miles) mark.....I did not know much about these Jeeps at the time but now realize that I was ripped off as the belt (unfortunately not a chain) should only be replaced every 160,000 kms or 6 years!:thumbsdown:

How much was the Dastek Unichip? Did they change something inside the ECM or is it a simple little module that intercepts the path to the Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor?....these little modules that fool the MAP sensor are usually a waste of time...on the recommendation of a previous member here from Spain I ordered one from Italy....blew up on me a few months later on the open road and actually only drastically increased fuel consumption when it worked!:shrug:

Dastek do have a good reputation though...I had a Customer nearby to them in those days.

 

[dewo]

I actually hope they replaced mine, as I do have FSH with Jeep.

Unichip was about 3k, did increase power of the jeep but not much, They call it a "piggy back chip" it can be removed at any time. not sure if they did anything to the ecm.

 

[btd]

Hi.

This is my first post. I have 2003 2.8 crd KJ and just for clarification:
Billwill, you are speaking about those hoses circled red

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[dewo]

yes that's the hoses.

 

[btd]

thx

 

[reflection]

Hi.

This is my first post. I have 2003 2.8 crd KJ and just for clarification:
Billwill, you are speaking about those hoses circled red

You must be registered for see images attach

hi,

i have a question, does it matter which pipe we blocked?

 

[Billwill]

Hi.

This is my first post. I have 2003 2.8 crd KJ and just for clarification:
Billwill, you are speaking about those hoses circled red

You must be registered for see images attach

Yep, remove one of the hoses, screw a small self-tapping screw into the exposed plastic nipple and replace the hose to cover the screw head.

Havent been here for a while, sorry for the late response!

Does not matter which hose....either way you are blocking off the vacuum.

 

[Forest Fab]

Hi fellow South Africans!

I see these posts are a bit late, but I'm busy making a blanking kit for my 2.5 CRD. Should be exactly the same for the 2.8, if anyone is interested.
Regarding the vacuum pipe, either block one off or maybe disable the solenoid altogether?

Cheers,
Fab.

 

[Billwill]

Hi fellow South Africans!

I see these posts are a bit late, but I'm busy making a blanking kit for my 2.5 CRD. Should be exactly the same for the 2.8, if anyone is interested.
Regarding the vacuum pipe, either block one off or maybe disable the solenoid altogether?

Cheers,
Fab.

You need to block off one of the small rubber pipes....the only testing for a disabled EGR that the early Export models have is "EGR Solenoid Coil Open Circuit" and "EGR Solenoid Coil Short Circuit" so if you unplug the solenoid or short it out you will get a CEL posted with error codes for one of the above conditions.

So simplest is to block one of the pipes by lifting the pipe off the solenoid housing, screw a small self-tapping screw into the exposed plastic nipple, place pipe back over the screw head to hide it.

The Jeep Engineers obviously got wind off this easy overide so now the newer CRDs have an airflow sensor on the airbox to detect that the airflow actually does change when the EGR is directed to open....so newer CRD owners have to have the ECM programmed to not look at this airflow sensor or else simply drive with the CEL light ON all the time...not a good idea because you will not recognise when a serious CEL gets posted!

I have been running my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD with the EGR disabled for some years now...definitely get better power when cresting large hills at speed on the open road and the MAP sensor is somewhat cleaner....have not noticed any difference in fuel economy!

 

[Forest Fab]

You need to block off one of the small rubber pipes....the only testing for a disabled EGR that the early Export models have is "EGR Solenoid Coil Open Circuit" and "EGR Solenoid Coil Short Circuit" so if you unplug the solenoid or short it out you will get a CEL posted with error codes for one of the above conditions.

So simplest is to block one of the pipes by lifting the pipe off the solenoid housing, screw a small self-tapping screw into the exposed plastic nipple, place pipe back over the screw head to hide it.

The Jeep Engineers obviously got wind off this easy overide so now the newer CRDs have an airflow sensor on the airbox to detect that the airflow actually does change when the EGR is directed to open....so newer CRD owners have to have the ECM programmed to not look at this airflow sensor or else simply drive with the CEL light ON all the time...not a good idea because you will not recognise when a serious CEL gets posted!

I have been running my 2002 Export 2.5 CRD with the EGR disabled for some years now...definitely get better power when cresting large hills at speed on the open road and the MAP sensor is somewhat cleaner....have not noticed any difference in fuel economy!

That's what I thought, makes sense!

 

[MM53]

look at SasquatchParts.com thay have that kit

 

[dewo]

Will it fit a 2004 Model? I think they only supply for the 2005/2006 models.

 

[mass-hole]

See here:

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product-category/intake-elbow-kits/

I cant promise that it will work on your jeep but the stage one kit disconnects the EGR from the intake side, the stage 2 kit allows you to remove the entire EGR assembly and block the hole in the exhaust manifold. I currently have the stage 1 kit installed and have the stage 2 sitting in my garage waiting to go on.