07 Liberty, no power to 4 fuses

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hecate

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bought this jeep for $300 with plethora of electrical issues. it's been sitting for a couple of years. after a year of fiddling with it, I replaced the pcm and it started right up. here's some quick history

2007 jeep liberty 3.7L 2WD limited, 114K, with a fair share of rodent droppings under the carpet :)

before pcm replacement:

>throttlebody was ruptured due to misfire. replaced. inspected ign wires. new spark plugs and full tune up.
>alternator shorted, POS+ wire to alternator shorted, replaced both + new battery
>Vehicle now turns on for 1 second then turns off (security light on). new key from dealer/programmed. no dice.
>Replaced PCM. car turns on and is drivable at highway speeds.

After PCM replacement:

>checked All engine compartment grounds for continuity. all good
>p0032, o2 sensor heater circuit high. can't pass smog (maybe for another article)
>p0443 EVAP System Purge Control Valve A Circuit, replaced purge valve assembly, noticed purge valve line from gas tank ruptured, replaced as well.
>blower motor/ac control switch dead
>reverse lights dead
>turn signals dead
>Noticed Fuses 24,25,38,39 on BCM were not getting power. refered to wiring diagram.

there are two pink/yellow wires from the ignition switch that get power when the key is in Run/Start.

one pink/yellow wire supplies the wiper/motor, which works. just to make sure I probed the wire and it does have current flow.

the other pink/yellow wire is NOT getting power when ignition switch is Run/Start.
this wire goes from the ignition switch (appears original) straight to the fuse box on left side of dash, which powers Fuses 24,25,38,39 and the fuses for the air bags (srs light is on).

first thing I figured was if the wire isn't getting power from the switch, the wire or switch may be bad. the wire is okay.

to further check, I connected alligator clips to the dead pink/yellow wire on one end, and 12v on the other. Everything started working. the fuses all got power, reverse lights work, turn signals work, SRS light is off. so the wiring appears to be fine? I go ahead and get a new ignition switch to see if it will start supplying the pink/yellow wire power...but it didn't. the new switch didn't change anything. I can just connect the 12v supply but I'm genuinely curious what it is I'm missing. could it be the pin/actuator? also could this in any way be related to my o2 sensor heater issues?
Thanks for any help.
 

Billwill

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Cut the suspect Pink/Yellow wire off at both ends....if there are splices on that wire then isolate them as well so that this whole Pink/Yellow wiring is hanging in mid air.;)

Replace this circuit with new wire...if you cannot get deep into the harness then your new wire take outside the harness and tape it down neatly.

I have replaced about 15 wire circuits on my 2002 Export Diesel after a frontal impact damaged the wires somewhere deep within the harness.:confused:

First check that any connectors that this wire goes through do not have dirty contacts!o_O
 
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hecate

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Cut the suspect Pink/Yellow wire off at both ends....if there are splices on that wire then isolate them as well so that this whole Pink/Yellow wiring is hanging in mid air.;)

Replace this circuit with new wire...if you cannot get deep into the harness then your new wire take outside the harness and tape it down neatly.

I have replaced about 15 wire circuits on my 2002 Export Diesel after a frontal impact damaged the wires somewhere deep within the harness.:confused:

First check that any connectors that this wire goes through do not have dirty contacts!o_O

hmm.. let me see if i can measure resistance on that wire before cutting it out. is it unusual for that wire to be faulty but when i supply it with 12v it powers on all my dead accessories?
 

hecate

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so I did a resistance test from one end of the wire pin that goes into fuse box and the pin inside the ignition switch wire harness. both wires are good and have solid resistance, meaning they're intact. I noticed the fuses for srs are not sitting snug inside the spades. but that still doesn't explain why I'm not getting voltage on the wire going from ignition switch to the fuse box... both input voltage going from battery to ignition switch are showing 12v. which means the ignition switch is getting the power. im kinda lost.
 

DadOSix

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the other pink/yellow wire is NOT getting power when ignition switch is Run/Start.
this wire goes from the ignition switch (appears original) straight to the fuse box on left side of dash, which powers Fuses 24,25,38,39 and the fuses for the air bags (srs light is on).


Doesn't this seem to point at a bad ignition switch?
 

hecate

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the other pink/yellow wire is NOT getting power when ignition switch is Run/Start.
this wire goes from the ignition switch (appears original) straight to the fuse box on left side of dash, which powers Fuses 24,25,38,39 and the fuses for the air bags (srs light is on).


Doesn't this seem to point at a bad ignition switch?

that's what I thought. but replacing the ignition switch with a new one did not change my predicament. still no power to those fuses.

many hours of inspecting the wires in junction with that dead ignition wire lead me to remove the driver side carpet and seat. somehow a rodent made a home under the carpet over the years of it sitting. the rodent apparently took some pennies under the carpet. it chewed on the "Occupant Restraint Control Module" wire and the pennies shorted that wire to ground. there is a lot of Battery corrosion all over the wires (hydrogen gas being released from the sulfuric acid inside battery). I cleaned and fixed the short/wire.

this explains why the srs light was on and this explains why the fuse is loose, because the fuse terminal is very contaminated from burned dielectric grease. I removed all 6 fuses in junction and attempted to clean the terminals as well. only the two srs fuse terminals were contaminated. after cleaning (took a while) I tested the power going to them and only the srs fuse was supplying power now, however the fuses underneath it were still not getting power.

another observation I made was that one pink/yellow ign wire plugs to a top fuse and the other pink/yellow ign wire plugs into the bottom fuse, with the srs fuses in the middle, with the fuses over the srs working and the ones below not working.

im thinking, if supplying 12v to the dead wire gets everything to work, and the ignition switch is not the culprit, it has to be the fuse box on the BCM.

am I wrong? sorry for the long post.. hoping it could help someone else in the future experiencing similar symptoms
 

Billwill

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I do not have a wiring diagram for the 2007 KJ....2006 will be similar but the wire colors usually change from one year to another.

You have changed the ignition switch and the Actuator Pin will be OK as everything else works.

When you measure a wire from end to end for continuity....also check that this wire...if disconnected completely...does not show any continuity to ground.

I definitely think that you have a broken wire or one that is shorting to ground somewhere....especially since you have Rodent problems....or a bad connector in the circuit.:confused:

If need be supply switched +12 volts direct to the wire that is missing +12 volts...fit an inline fuse within that wire if you are concerned about supplying +12 volts to the fuses.;)
 

hecate

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I do not have a wiring diagram for the 2007 KJ....2006 will be similar but the wire colors usually change from one year to another.

You have changed the ignition switch and the Actuator Pin will be OK as everything else works.

When you measure a wire from end to end for continuity....also check that this wire...if disconnected completely...does not show any continuity to ground.

I definitely think that you have a broken wire or one that is shorting to ground somewhere....especially since you have Rodent problems....or a bad connector in the circuit.:confused:

If need be supply switched +12 volts direct to the wire that is missing +12 volts...fit an inline fuse within that wire if you are concerned about supplying +12 volts to the fuses.;)

ahh. I couldn't sleep at night knowing that I bypassed an issue rather than finding the culprit. ill spend a few more hours on this heavy paperweight. will probably pick up a used junction block and slap it in there

the wiring, other than the ORC module, was fine. I've patched up the ORC chewed up wire under the carpet and, when supplying the dead ignition wire with power, also gets power, along with all the other modules in the same wiring harness that plugs into junction block.

im not the best at reading diagrams, but the dead ignition wire gets power from the ignition switch, which gets its power from one of two fuses in the PDC, both of which are supplying ample power to the ignition switch.

...the switch is just somehow not getting power to the dead wire. however the other wires seem to be getting power just fine. I can't seem to upload the photo of the wiring diagram
 

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