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The faded parts are the actual Back to Black treated areas. Just has a lot of dirt build up. Trust me, I always used it every time I washed the jeep, which is about once or twice a month.

Just that dark 6" section. I tried plain water but window cleaner worked better. Definitely not recommended in my opinion but a good degreaser would work better as long as it's not spray on the paint accidentally for a prolonged period of time. I'm just gonna have to make it a day venture, due...

For any one who's been using this product, knows it makes everything look all crisp and clean after a good wash. Now from what I've learned from years of use, being it's oil based, it hangs on to dirt and grime pretty well. This is a pic of what it currently looks like. Mind you, I use soap and...

Regular copper. I used to run iridium, decided to go OEM Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

Its at 90k now. I gave it a tune up about a month before said time. I never go to mom and pop gas stations to avoid that problem. It happened while current duration of driving well before I left out of town. I also keep up oil changes every 3-4k using mobile 1 since it was at 39k on the...

I go out of town frequently for work and leave me Jeep sitting for no more than 3 weeks. I've noticed though upon driving the other day that the acceleration is lagging A LOT now, as if the AC were on, but its not. When the AC is on, nothing changes. Cant spin RPM's up too high either while...

If it were a fuse, wouldn't it just not pump at all without me having few days where I just have to keep cranking the engine? All fuses are good. Idk about the PRC relay though.

It's looking like the fuel pump isn't working. Any recommendations on whether to shell out $350 for the whole assembly or shoot for just the pump itself?

Tried to start the jeep last night to go to the gym. Wouldn't start. Past couple of days when I tried to start it, it would crank, but not start on the first try. I'd have to let it rest for a few seconds then crank it again and it would start right up. Now it will crank but not start. Got a new...

Sometimes the actuator pin is too long (the thin white plastic piece). If u haven't fixed it yet and its not fitting into the ignition, snip just about 1/16" off the tip. The aftermarket ones tend to be a but longer. But if not and it works/ worked, lucky you.

Voila! I tried all the above but what I ended up doing was snipping just about a millimeter or two from the tip of the plastic pin that pushes the indicator for the ignition recognition. Thanks for the input fellas.

Wouldn't I just be able to clip the tip of the plastic pin, in theory?

My ignition switch pin actuator broke. So I replaced it naturally. Had to go and find a replacement that fit, cause the initial one I bought was set out of place. Finally found one that works. Put it in. Assembled every thing together. Everything went together smoothly. But then I took the key...

Appreciate it guys. It'll definitely be a lot cheaper than what the $350 I know the dealer will want.

BTW I have a 2007 Sport. So I cant fill my own ATF4 right?

Ok, so i haven't been on here in a awhile, due to job relocating and such. But I got a pretty simple question that I should already know how to fix, but can't cause simply, I'm partially a window licker. The fitting that connects the hardline of the transmission return line and the rubber hose...

That's amazing. Now check this out! NY man nears 3 millionth mile in beloved '66 Volvo - Yahoo! Finance

^ ditto

Wow. That's one hell of a machine right there.

Bed lined my receiver hook