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  1. T

    From the Canadian East Coast

    Good to have another person on here from the Sandbar! LOL now in true Islander fashion "Whose You're Father? " Welcome to the forum it's a great group who share our experiences, thoughts and troubleshooting tips to keep these old rigs running.
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    Rear end whining on power - How to diagnose cause?

    Take it for a 10 minute drive than feel the universal joints if they are mildly warm that's normal if they're hot that's a good indicator of either lack of grease or a worn out universal, do you recall having replaced any universal joints if not they maybe washed out and have no grease in them...
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    Rear end whining on power - How to diagnose cause?

    Just my two cents but a used rear end while cheaper and may sound like a great deal it's still going to cost to install unless you are doing it yourself, a rebuild of your own rear diff while more expensive is a once and done deal... But are you sure that it's the diff? I just did a friend's...
  4. T

    Best lower ball joint on the market? I am replacing my lower joints as a full rebuild of the front end,

    Just wanted some opinions on the most reliable lower ball joints on the market, I always use Moog with a grease fitting. But I have been wondering about other brands and figure tplace is the best plac
  5. T

    Loud rattling noise - top engine

    Hi just a shot in the dark but I would check my oil pressure with a master gauge
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    Loud rattling noise - top engine

  7. T

    Spongy brakes??

    Wait till the bottles are near full to be sure,just keep the master cylinder topped up, it might take 10 minutes or it could take an hour, I usually start with the 4 bleeders open and find that the closest to the master cylinder is the first to be closed, you can judge by monitoring the bottles...
  8. T

    Spongy brakes??

    Definitely have air trapped in the brake lines, I would suggest you do a gravity bleed to begin with, grab yourself 4 beer bottles and some 3/16th clear tubing fill the bottles with enough brake fluid to barely cover the tubing crack the bleeders on your calipers, remove the master cylinder...
  9. T

    Blanking plate for the EGR

    Exactly! we have the same problem with ISX Cummins engines and a half gallon of Kerosene and a hot run works miracles
  10. T

    Brake getting hot

    I have ran into this issue a time or two and now replace hoses at a three year interval, brake hoses get taken for granted unfortunately and are as important as any other brake component, I have seen some last 15 years but would you trust a 15 year old tire? don't think so, me either... Best of...
  11. T

    Gas mileage

    As I mentioned back on the 6th about replacing my 02 sensors, I have replaced both the upper and down stream sensors with Bosch replacements, my fuel mileage probably increased by a mile or more, engine response is smooth and my idle is rock solid compared to it being a little rough before. 3...
  12. T

    Gas mileage

    Heavily loaded, 2 toolboxes and at the moment a 318 Dodge block in the back ... I average about 15 mpg but I have gotten 19 on long trips . I still don't think thats bad compared to my 2000 Dodge Durango! LOL 2006 KJ with a shade over 300,000 klicks on her. I am just going to fire all new 02...
  13. T

    Highway vibration

    I think it might be advisable to check both your transfer case and front diff if the C.V joints are both good, possibly the splin on the yokes are worn a bit and causing vibration
  14. T

    02 missing and gutless for power (codes included)

    Just finished dealing with a similar situation, ground on the engine to body was what I thought was the culprit, turned out that evil green corrosion at the bottom of the fuse box, used some dielectric spray penetrating fluid after a light cleaning, seems to have worked, buddy hasn't called...
  15. T

    Unleaded 88 safe?

    Thank heaven here in Atlantic Canada, we don't have any ethanol blend in our gas yet! but it's probably not too far away.....
  16. T

    what engine should i put in my 2005 jeep liberty

    Honestly the aggravation and trouble to try and shoehorn anything but a 3.7 into a liberty is not worth the effort and expense.... seen it tried ended horribly.... built a good 3.7 or purchase a rebuilt one like everyone has suggested in the end you're farther ahead with no hassles, it's not...
  17. T

    Stuck in 4wd

    Sounds like a cable issue, maybe try manually shifting the transfer case by hand without the cable attached, I had issues with the shifter itself being out, can you place it in neutral? before you go under and start playing with the linkage please chock the wheels and be on a flat surface...
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    Loose sounds jingling, turns into violent clunking

    I'm going to try and make a suggestion here as well along Tom's line of thinking, go for a drive till the symptoms start and try placing you hand on the front differential pot, than both sides of the driveline looking for hot spots, same for the rear axles as well, might be a carrier bearing...
  19. T

    New here.

    I would check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the passenger side of the engine, it's a Schrader valve similar to a tire valve it has a black plastic cap on it. try to see if the fuel is under pressure, the proper way is with a fuel pressure gauge, old school is to just push the valve stem...
  20. T

    New here.

    Welcome to a great site for getting information on your Liberty, I think the best chance for your friend is to find the source of the fuel smell, if buddy said he smells fuel and it is not starting easily on the first try, chances are a possible fuel line leak in the lines from the fuel tank...

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