Ya I didn't even think to come on here and ask if anyone would have wanted to buy it. Would have a been a great option but being on the timeline and not being able to stick around in the area kinda killed me. I appreciate the feedback and it's nice to know for the future, thanks guys. You have...
I was making a move from Ms --> Va last week and the transmission burnt up. I didn't have any issues with the transmission leading up to it, before the trip I checked fluids (including the trans) everything was good. Half way through the trip the transmission started to slip going between gears...
I had to replace my water pump...again, I just replaced it 3 years ago but I digress. When I was removing the pump I pulled the bolts out and when I pulled out one of the bolts it had engine oil on it. (enough to wipe on the ground, not enough that it would drip out the hole) It was one of the...
Would I be able to accomplish the same thing by taking a hose and routing it from the bleeder point to the opening in the overflow tank and submerging the hose in the overflow tank. Then instead of "plugging the funnel" at boil over, just pinch of the hose?
So I did all of them and all but one cylinder #4 (which I have gotten misfire codes for before) were between 178-180 psi. #4 Sat down at 150 psi :( I added a few drops of oil and it jumped up to 180 psi.
My big question here is, can a stripped spark plug hole cause low compression? Ever since I...
I’ve never done a compression test before but it seems pretty straight forward. I am having constant misfires on cyl 2 (p0302), did the “dollar bill test” against my tailpipe and it was getting pushed/pulled to indicate possible burnt valve. I have a compression tester but do I need to test each...
I just replaced mine because I broke it at the same place. I ordered one from the dealership. After shipping online it was about the same price. So I checked it in the parking lot before I left and noticed it did not have the "valves" at the base like mine did. I asked the parts guy who went and...
I know that everyone says always use Mopar but it is so expensive. I want to use good parts but am really tight on cash right now. Can I get away with using a different brand and if so what would you all recommend?
I started looking into some of the the numbers. My TPS % isn't right, so I turned the car off and put the key in the ignition. TPS % read 13.7% (14.1% when idling or coasting down the road). I slowly depressed the pedal until it was grounded and TPS% only went up to 77.3%. Could this be a reason...
The first set of numbers I posted were from when the code was kicked out. When I started up the jeep. The second set of numbers are from a normal idle with no check engine light. The top set of numbers is not how my Jeep normally runs, it doesn't idle at 175 rpms.
Thanks for highlighting what was wrong but I don't know what that means. Here is data from a min ago when I was just sitting and letting it idle after I drove.
Fuel System 1 Status---------------------------Closed Loop
Fuel System 2 Status---------------------------Closed Loop
Calculated LOAD...
Here is the freeze frame from when the code was given.
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored------P0300
Fuel System 1 Status---------------------------Open Loop
Fuel System 2 Status---------------------------Open Loop
Calculated LOAD Value-------------------------52.94 %
Engine Coolant...
I had a few minutes so I figured I would check out the brakes, bought synthetic grease and new pins/rubber bushing. I jacked it up and spun the wheel to see if there was a difference before and after. I didn't notice much if any of a difference after I changed them. That being said, it was...
As far as my differentials go I had them regeared to 4.10 both front and rear when I had the transmission fixed last year about this time.
I always run 87 octane through it.
Quick update: I stopped at a lube shop on the way back, "DipSticks" they had a 2 step fuel cleaner for $40 they could...
Maybe a short somewhere, trace your wires and see if any of them are against a hot part and melted. Idk if that would cause stalling after its warmed up. Is it a rough idle too, maybe check on the Camshaft Position Sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If they go bad they can cause stalling...
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