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Any luck?

I remember one of mine needing a bunch of pressure to get it to snap in. It eventually did, but it seemed that it could have been slightly mis-shaped. I may have removed and reseated the clip on that port after pushing it in to get it to work.

I remember those being a pain. I took out the front driveshaft to get better access, and that helped to get it in.

It was a little bit of a pain to snake around things and under the main radiator to get to the trans cooler. I took out the front driveshaft to get my hands up near the transmission ports. Without doing that, I was having a very hard time. Well worth the 10 minutes to remove it. I also had a set...

Be aware that DOT4 may actually require more frequent changes than DOT3, so may not be a better choice. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid "This does not mean that DOT 4 fluids are necessarily better than DOT 3 fluids. Remember, the boiling points...

Funny you mention this. A year ago I had my driver side front hose blow catastrophically (where the hard line connects to rubber) I still had rear braking, however (it's split front and rear). A week ago, I was thinking about it and replaced the passenger side just in case...

I replaced the Cam and Crank sensors for the same thing a couple years back. Unfortunately, my crank sensor snapped off in the block because of the reason you mentioned. Not a fun night getting it out (ended up putting a screw in it, and slowly prying it out over a couple hours)

If you have a compressor, using one of these to fill the coolant can get most/all of the air out. Just used it twice in the last day (one was on my KJ), and no burping needed. Just got in and drove, and didn't need to even top it off later, as little/no air was in the system. Robinair 75260...

It looks like cummins93 may have some helpful information, but the details haven't been posted yet: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61912

I'd like to see it too!

That's how I nailed down my sway bar bushing problem. Worked just fine. I've seen it recommended elsewhere as well.

Shooting in some silicon spray can help to isolate it too...

Good point, I was thinking kj. I don't know the kk.

I have not seen a reset as a requirement with the KJ, and can't find any mention of it in the service manual. Might you be thinking of another model?

I have not seen that as a requirement with the KJ, and can't find any mention of it in the service manual. Might you be thinking of another model?

If you think you narrow it down to those, the cam sensor only took a couple minutes. Easy to try first. If the crank sensor breaks off like mine, it can be miserable.

I had a temperature sensitive start like that, and mine was a crank or cam position sensor. I had ruled out other issues like plugs, idle air control valve, coils, etc. through various means. I say crank or cam because they were cheap enough to just replace both. Beware that the crank sensor...

Not sure that this helps the OP now, but something like this can make life easy when replacing coolant (preventing vapor lock, etc. ) https://www.amazon.com/Robinair-75260-Coolant-Refiller-Preventer/dp/B001QFDRS0

Mine has the spring up at the parking brake handle to take up cable slack (as I think they all do), but nothing that would turn/ratchet the star nut in the brakes. I just set it manually. I'm guessing they may have been delivered both ways?

Weird. We've had it since new, and I think I'm the only one to ever touch the brakes. Ours looks like this (no adjuster lever.)