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I know this is a very old thread but just to add some info, there are no resistors in there (at least not the way you would think) resistance is achieved by joining all terminals with traces of different length and thickness. I replaced mine and just for fun removed the black coating and exposed...

Spoke to a friend that worked at the dealership he said not to worry. Remember I did not torque to 90 ft-lbs I just checked after giving it the 90 degrees for the second time. I was just curious how many ft-lbs it ended up with after the two consecutive 90 degree tightening sequence. 450lbs...

I followed the service manual as for 20lbs, 90 degree then 90 degree again on bolts 1-8. After I was done just to check I set my torque wrench to 30 lbs then 40 and so on, after 70 lbs I did 5lbs increments on the dial it finally "clicked" at 90 lbs on all screws (except the small ones off...

That's what I did... Everything seems fine, all dots aligned... I had to go the hillbilly way by holding the cam with a large locking plier (I used the spot where the special tool goes). Let's see if it starts... LOL...

By free I mean I have all valves closed on the left but on the right side the cam is holding valves open so it will skip as soon as I remove the chain.

I have the fsm but it just mentions the cam psition and marks. It does not say if the right cam is free like the left one. I know it is at tdc but I find it strange that the right cam is not free to remove an replace the chain. If that was the case then I would need somebody to move the cam into...

When replacing the timing chain, is the passenger cam supposed to be free or not? I placed the engine at tdc but right side cam is not free, if I remove the chain it will skip for sure.

Working perfectly... On the road again...

Update: Seat dropped, held valve a little bit open, rocker fell off so the valve never moved afterwards avoiding further damage... Lucky I guess...

Well... My wife had emergency surgery so I had no time until today to work on the liberty so I did a compression test I got 175 on 1-3-4-5-6 #2 was gone... Pulled the valve cover and sure enough the rocker for the intake valve fell to the side without damaging anything (luck I guess). The valve...

I don't hear a rattle at all, the serpentine and tensioner have less than 1,000 miles. Like I said it has me stumped except for the fact that the cats are the factory ones from 2005 with 145K miles on them. I had been experiencing power loss going uphill and on the highway it felt like I needed...

At 2,000 rpm cats and pipes are getting red towards the rear, the driver's side more than the passengers side. I'm gonna loosen up both sides see if the problem stops. Again I got no codes on the scanner and no codes doing the "On" "Off" "On" "Off" "On" switch process.

I think it's time for some voo-doo, I need a live chicken... LOL

I know this is an old thread but my '05 3.7L is barely surviving idle and no codes at all so it's driving me crazy, If I unplug one of the coils and try to start it will generate a code for the coil so it is detecting if a coil is bad. I just pulled two of the coils #1 and #2 and both read 1.4...

Hmmm... Did not think of that... But wouldn't that generate a code?

LOL... You're right... I just read this elsewhere, it's an 03, mine is 05 but still has me worried: "3.7L 1 entire bank refused t run. No check enging light. No code to read. Has spark, fuel, valve timing right on, crank sensor OK. Compression 10-15lbs lower in #6 cyl, but still in range. THE...

Is the a/c supposed to blow to the feet for about 45 seconds then slowly switch to the upper vents when turned on? I ask because I read that these vents are vacuum operated. If that vacuum is bad could it cause the rough idle problem?

Hope is not a valve or the timing chains... What kills me is... No codes!

Checked... Also in good shape... Still leaning towards a clogged cat converter which none has ever been replaced...

After I got gas... What are the symptoms for the purge valve? Does it trigger codes?