Yeah, been reading about all that... But, can I atleast remove the hoses and quickly put on some duck tape to seal them so I can remove the compressor.. Another a/c job is not a possibilty ($$$) right now.
Thanks for the belt size, that is a big help. (Duralast.. NAPA and discount auto have that brand? When you took off the compressor, they say "warning, high pressure system" Do I need to take any precautions, or just remove bolts and hoses slowly..
This sucks, I need my second a/c compressor in 3 years. I knew it was coming. Today, on my way home the pulley finally failed, a/c stopped blowing cold and within 5 miles the bearings will seize. ( I just made it home, she was smoking, literally)
My question: Can I replace the compressor my...
1 day after I saw the fluid on the seal, it has stopped and has been dry since, must have been excess being flown around, left over from changing out the seal. Next job.... Changing out the steering gear bushing
Thanks guys...I will get some wire when I get home. I did not want to damage anything by sticking a wire through that drain. It seems to me it should have an elbow on it, (or maybe it does and mine is gone) that would direct condensation down...
(No, it is not rain, puddles or anything from the outside) Should I assume this is from the A/C condesation line? It is dripping properly to the outside, but about 50% or so is inside. Is it possible that driving at highway speeds for over an hour is pushing the water inside the jeep? Anyway to...
Well, good luck on the move... I am trying to get out of here my self and land in Charlotte if I can make it work. Been in Tampa for 19 years.
I say a professional car moving company should move the LR.. keep her covered
Mating surface... meaning the yoke. If so, then yes there was a groove from the old seal. That was my next move. The yoke, (which is a cone type, they call it a rear differential yoke (but installed on the front) I am confused on that one as manual shows a different type of yoke than that of my...
I did have the correct seal. I did not replace the nut, I did the rotation method (counting how many rotations until nut comes off) and used lock-tite when re-installing the nut. I do not have an inch/pound torque wrench. Everything is tight, but it does have a slow leak. I am hoping it will stop.
Well, I did finally get it loose with the help of a large pipe wrench which held the flange in place.. Only problem is I installed the new seal and it seams to still be leaking, very frustrating, but it may just be some differentential fluid that was leaking from the removal. I will find out...
Anyone do this? I am trying to remove the lock nut holding on the pinion shaft, but it is not going so well. Is this a reverse thread or just really tight. Any ideas on how to loosen it? Thanks
Changing front differential seal
I did a bit of research on this and figured out what needs to get done. 1st question, should I get a seal from the dealer or save $15 and get on line. There is also 2 ways to do this, you can keep the lock nut and mark the correct location of nut and count...
Have no clue what that means, but I will look it up in the book and on line, then decide if I can do it. Thanks for your help.
No radiator leak for now!
Thanks for the quick reply... What seal is it.. Is it a fairly simple to repair. I am knowledgable in the garage, but I would not change out a transmission or anything like that!
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.