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Not really. Good quality unit bearings (like Timken) are simple, strong, and last plenty long. I picked up some Explorer hub stuff from a guy that that was modifying it for a jeep TJ. (He'd given up). I got no further. Pretty small/flimsy mechanism to work with the 5x4.5" pattern.

I cross checked the 2wd and 4wd unit bearings and determined them to be the same. I drove for a good 6 months without stubs in them. Not all unit bearings are put together the same - so what's being said of XJ and ZJ is probably true.

Most KJs have the factory track-lok around here. I highly recommend a crush-sleeve eliminator for any rebuild - especially if not experienced with this. Much more forgiving for trial and error.

Removed the whole diff housing assembly and CVs.

I removed the CV shafts also.

Wonder when it changed. I have dabbled with 03-05 amongst np231, 241, and 242. That joint at the tcase has been the same. Which is also the same as found on one end of the Jeep WJ shaft. I got the my CV joint rebuild kit off eBay from an outfit selling side-by-side and atv parts. Seems the...

I was commenting on the rear only in post #24.

Maybe, maybe not. A 4cyl Jeep XJ or 4cyl Dakota might have 4.10.

Could be the two different auto trans. Definitely keep. I changed the joint easy enough. Parts Jeep came later.

I have an 04 auto parts KJ and not noticed a shaft length different front or rear with our 05 6spd.

Yup. Have driven for something like 6 months without the entire front diff also.

Some could be so backwoods on their operation they don't do immediate inventory on receipt of the vehicle. Even if they do, there's also a possibility of unknown details/options. Gets lumped in under the usual 3.73 stock until the diff is physically checked over and inventory is updated...

Not how it works. I have 4-5 years industry experience. The electronic inventory is done soon after they receive it - so they can find/sell their own parts. Participation in the web locator (car-part) is either included in their software license, or an add-on. Then your inventory is visible to...

Try searching for the 4.10 on www.car-part.com. Both as r&p, and also as a carrier assembly. I think north america got a 2.8L CRD and 3.73. Automatic trans only, for certain - and that's probably the main reason I don't have a CRD.

Regular Dana 30 lockers for the front. It's the r&p that are unique. I ran a powertrax no-slip for a while. Incredible traction

I haven't had any trouble with the CVs, but I did drop the cradle 3/4" to help things out.

I'm all for thinking a bit outside the box. However, I've stopped at about 3-3.5" lift. Cradle drop and taller knuckles would be a direction to explore. If I truly lust for more - off in the future - I'll toss the body on a '79 Bronco chassis or similar.

Another item you can use for lift is the KK clevis forks. They are a smidge longer.

It likely downshifts to 2nd and that's why you see 3000rpm. The auto is pretty terrible at using the 2000-2500 range, which is kind of a nice sweet spot for driving with a manual trans. I've had the displeasure of driving automatic 03-07 KJ's (3.73 axle ratio) and they're really doggy unless...

I have had similar issues in years prior. Somewhere between replacing O2 sensor, crank sensor (lower passenger side), and spark plugs it hasn't re-occurred.