04 KJ Lift Kit – Not Adding Up

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BlackBetty

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Current Lift:
  • Front
    • Spring: ARB OME 2927
    • Strut: ARB OME 90009
    • Top Spacer: 3/8” Spacer
    • Clevis Lift: 4 on Driver’s side/3 on Passenger’s side (Conduit Nuts)
    • Upgraded control arms to help with alignment & eliminate spring contact
    • Height Measurements: FL = 21.5” & FR = 21.5”
  • Rear
    • Spring: RRO KJ7610 (Full Height 2.5-3” lift springs)
    • Shock: Doetsch Tech Shocks
    • Upgraded UCA & LCAs from IRO
    • Height Measurements: RL = 21” & RR = 21.25”
I'll start off by stating that I plan on re-doing the rear eventually with the proper OME springs and OME/Bilstein shocks.

I am told that stock ride height is 19” in the front; therefore, a lift at 3.75” would be 22.75” ride height. However, I’m roughly 1.25” below that. I had my alignment done at the following settings: “set the camber on both sides as close to -0.4 degrees as possible and caster were ever it lands but the cross caster must be within 0.5 degrees. 2.5-3 degrees of caster is plenty.” I asked for a printout, but they said they set it at what I asked, and didn’t write or print out the actual settings.

My dilemma is that I believe I’ve followed the proper procedures, but it seems like I’m short of what other people are getting out of the same or similar lifts. Am I missing something here? I’d appreciate any feedback regarding my current situation.
 

duderz7

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Any extra weight on there? Bumper, winch, skid plates etc? I recently did some rebuilding on my suspension and found that I was loosing some height to worn spring isolators. The spring had sank in deep, also the very tip of the coil was at recessed area of the top mount next to a stud. Some things to look at. I currently have the same springs as you, although a few years old, with fresh isolators. 1/4 inch top plate and full skids and am sitting at 21.5ish (2.5 instead of 3). You can't put too much stock in measuring off the plastic flares because, well they're plastic.
 

BlackBetty

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All good points to bring up. I haven't installed a bumper yet, although that will change shortly as I've got an ARB and Warn M-8000s waiting to go in.

I am running full under-body skid plates (Skid Row & factory gas tank).

The other thought that I had, is maybe I tightened the retaining nut for the spring/strut too much. I wasn't sure if you were supposed to release compression on the spring as soon as you got the nut started, but I got it on with at least a few threads showing on the top side of the nut before releasing the springs from the compressors. Then I torqued to FSM specs.

I'll take another look at my Isolators. I'm slightly kicking myself for not just replacing them while I was already in there.
 

mercdudecbr600

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All good points to bring up. I haven't installed a bumper yet, although that will change shortly as I've got an ARB and Warn M-8000s waiting to go in.

I am running full under-body skid plates (Skid Row & factory gas tank).

The other thought that I had, is maybe I tightened the retaining nut for the spring/strut too much. I wasn't sure if you were supposed to release compression on the spring as soon as you got the nut started, but I got it on with at least a few threads showing on the top side of the nut before releasing the springs from the compressors. Then I torqued to FSM specs.

I'll take another look at my Isolators. I'm slightly kicking myself for not just replacing them while I was already in there.
I have detours winch bracket and ARB winch, I had to go with 790 springs to keep them from sagging under the additional weight. I did this after trying 927s. I think since ARB took over OME production, the springs don't provide as much lift as they used to - the 927's are only going to give you a true 1.5-1.75" lift. So use that data and then add the clevis lift, etc. and your height is actually what it's supposed to be.
 

BlackBetty

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Ok, so I've done quite a bit of research and searching around; and I think I've finally come up with a solution to my dilemma. My new approach will be switching up to Bilstein shocks and then upping the OME springs. Below is my proposed list of parts and anticipated lift heights:

- Bilstein B8 5100 Shocks (struts) ~ 2.5" Lift
- OME 2790 Springs ~ 1.5" Lift
- 3/8" Top Plate ~ 9/16" Lift

Therefore, my theoretical maximum lift would be 4 9/16" of lift. I'm hoping that by adding the top plate I'll make up for any initial settling/compression loss of height. My intended Ride height is 3.5 - 3.75" above stock. I want to keep the CVs at reasonable angles and level the jeep all around.

By now, I've installed the ARB deluxe bull bar with a Warn M-8000S and under-body skidrow plates. This added weight has continued to reduce my already sub-par height.

I'm interested to see if anyone has additional input/recommendations for my plan here. I think I've got a good plan, but I'm always open to suggestions from people that have lifted before me and succeeded.
 

tommudd

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DO NOT use the 5100 front shocks they do nothing at all and cause more issues
Just use the regular Bilsteins in front
At that much lift you will have spring/ UCA contact on every bump ( we all found that out 18 years ago
Yes the 790s are needed for the ARB/ winch and will not lose as much height as you think
This comes from experience, I have ran the 927s/ 790s etc over the years and went with the JBA adjustable coilovers due to contact issues even with the ARB/winch
 

tommudd

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I have detours winch bracket and ARB winch, I had to go with 790 springs to keep them from sagging under the additional weight. I did this after trying 927s. I think since ARB took over OME production, the springs don't provide as much lift as they used to - the 927's are only going to give you a true 1.5-1.75" lift. So use that data and then add the clevis lift, etc. and your height is actually what it's supposed to be.
OME has always been a ARB company / production
 

tommudd

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QUOTE
Anyone thinking or wanting to use the Bilstein 5100 adjustable front shocks , think again
If you do want to use them, not sure why but,.....
You should not install them any more than sitting at the 0 mark, that is it
Any higher and it will create a disaster , degrading the springs within a few months
It preloads the springs which is very bad much like cheap spacer lifts do
These shocks should of never been built in the first place
4600s are cheaper , are the same internally , and are built for the KJs/KKs to keep the same spring perch at stock distances
Jeepinjarhead and I have discussed this and just today I seen a discussion suggesting someone use them
Please do not , unless you want to spend the extra money , set them at 0 just to say you have them
Questions ?
 

BlackBetty

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Thanks for bursting my bubble Tom!

I wasn't even thinking of what the adjustable lift height was doing to the spring. Thanks for catching me before making a bone-headed mistake.

All-in-all, I'm still planning to upgrade to the OME 790 springs. @tommudd , is your set still available?
 

tommudd

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Thanks for bursting my bubble Tom!

I wasn't even thinking of what the adjustable lift height was doing to the spring. Thanks for catching me before making a bone-headed mistake.

All-in-all, I'm still planning to upgrade to the OME 790 springs. @tommudd , is your set still available?
all out of 790s
 

mandala1111

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I have detours winch bracket and ARB winch, I had to go with 790 springs to keep them from sagging under the additional weight. I did this after trying 927s. I think since ARB took over OME production, the springs don't provide as much lift as they used to - the 927's are only going to give you a true 1.5-1.75" lift. So use that data and then add the clevis lift, etc. and your height is actually what it's supposed to be.
ARB aquired OME back in the 80's, I know because I was one of their early customers as they were just up the road from me.
 

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