What did you do to your jeep today?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Btownpreacher

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2022
Messages
122
Reaction score
101
I'm replacing an axle shaft and diff cover on short notice. The 75w-140 valvoline diff fluid says it contains a limited slip additive so it can work on any diff. Since I have the Trac-Lok differential should I add an LSD additive anyway, or just trust the valvoline to be fine? I'm usually skeptical about universal stuff, but maybe it's fine?
 

duderz7

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
1,414
Reaction score
1,137
Location
Weiser, ID
I'm replacing an axle shaft and diff cover on short notice. The 75w-140 valvoline diff fluid says it contains a limited slip additive so it can work on any diff. Since I have the Trac-Lok differential should I add an LSD additive anyway, or just trust the valvoline to be fine? I'm usually skeptical about universal stuff, but maybe it's fine?
I ran that in mine for quite a while with no issues, but I think you'll get different opinions on this one.
 

KJowner

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2022
Messages
890
Reaction score
527
Location
Uk
If it makes a noise when you turn add more additive, if not then it's OK. That's what I'd do anyway.
 

nohitter64

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
275
Reaction score
122
Location
Annapolis, MD
Mark me down as interested, I have a sport as well and don't mind drilling into things.

So there's some wiring already somewhere down there for where lights would be for the floor mats essentially? Beings those are led, makes me want to do both the mirrors, and get the footwells also.
Ditto..thanks for the additional info...perhaps move/copy to How To section.
 

Deb'nKJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2022
Messages
536
Reaction score
455
Location
somewhere between London & Zunny Deb'n (England)
It didn't rain today for the 1st time since Boxing Day afternoon so, in the hour between the ground drying out & it being too dark to work under the KJ I managed to disconnect the r/h downstream O2 sensor. I've always hated those ridiculous Jeep electrical connectors but combined with the poor access on a KJ it's a nightmare.

Wrong again, as I discovered on Thursday (had a couple of days off to finish a job I'd barely started, which was planned to be during the 2 weeks over |Christmas/New Year) - it was the upstream sensor, the downpipe. cat ended up suspended by the downstream one & that's worse because it's barely visible and almost impossible to get 2 hands to. Then, after a few false starts, low & behold, the little clip you have to depress actually co-operated & the connector just pulled apart.
Then I had to remove the l/h exhaust - not too bad once I accepted I'd have to remove or, at least, lower the X-member. (why does the KJ need twice as many bolts as an XJ to attach a smaller X-member supporting the same TC?). Now I have to find somebody who can make good the welding of the universal, stainless steel cats.
 
Last edited:

KJowner

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2022
Messages
890
Reaction score
527
Location
Uk
Finally popped the cover off my spare axle, don't think it's had an oil change recently! Few shavings on the magnet but it's in reasonable condition. I'll give it a good clean out and pull the shafts, one wheel seal has gone & I'd like to check the bearings while it's in the dry.
 

Attachments

  • 20230103_135323.jpg
    20230103_135323.jpg
    226.4 KB · Views: 9
  • Like
Reactions: JRB

Aceofspades

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Messages
803
Reaction score
107
Location
Buffalo
Well my spring list just got longer. Valve cover gaskets leaking again. At this point maybe consider new valve covers .
The 4 year old Y pipe broke off at the hanger by the transmission pan. Got some heat wrap and fiberglass with clamp for now to close the hole.
And blizzard damage. Smh.
 

nohitter64

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
275
Reaction score
122
Location
Annapolis, MD
Ok - so I removed the mirrors and ran the wires for the lights through the harness for the power mirrors. There is a cover that pops off on the mirror where it folds in - this is how you can get the wires into the mirror housing behind the glass. Next you have to pull the boot off that runs between the door and the body. Easiest way to do this is to first unbolt the door check strap from the body and the door and push it into the door. Starting on the door side pop the boot out of the door - it is held in by a plastic retainer similar to the other side - be carefully not to break the plastic part, it is fragile. I then pulled the rubber boot off the clip and then pushed the boot and clip into the door. The boot on the body side actually says where to push to get it out of the body - you are just squeezing some clips and it will pop out of the body. Unplug the orange harness and you can access the connector. I drilled two holes in the bottom part of the connector to pass my wires through - ran the wires from the mirror, through the boot and into the car. I also removed the door speaker to help get my hand up into the door. The body harness from the door passes through another one of these clip style grommets above the kick panels - I removed the kick panels to get better access then put a small cut in the boot and ran the wires through. I found the interior lamp wires, cut the plug off and connected the wires from the doors - lights work!

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You can see that the factory wires for the lights (red and blk/wht) are tapped to this harness under the steering column and on the passenger side they are tapped to the harness just infront of the blower resistor - this side was easy to see with a small mirror.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
What are the new lights you use? Do you have a link?
 

Johnny O

Just hangin' out.
Joined
Apr 29, 2021
Messages
2,398
Reaction score
3,234
Location
Bellevue NE
All my junk has been in good shape the last few weeks, did nothing to any of them
But then of course I was a few thousand miles away in Tanzania puttering around in a Yota Land Cruiser LOL
Wanted to bring it home with me
Yeah, I drove a mid 90s Yota Cruiser all over South America. Would trade Bert AND Beazlebug for one.
 

Johnny O

Just hangin' out.
Joined
Apr 29, 2021
Messages
2,398
Reaction score
3,234
Location
Bellevue NE
Need a favor from someone:

Troubleshooting the coolant leak. Hoses intact. Still about 75% coolant in system.
Suspect water pump shaft seal behind the pulley wheel.
Cannot see drip or squirt. after allowing the engine to warm for a minute or two, coolant "smoke" rises from water pump.

Noticed when I squeeze and release top radiator hose I can hear air moving in and out at water pump. Never troubleshot a watercooled system before. (Remember, Bert is the first non-VW bug I do the work myself on beyond brakes and suspension)

Hoping someone can go out and squeeze and release top hose a few times and report back to me if they too can hear air moving from water pump.

My hypothesis is I shouldn't be able to hear air in the pump in a sealed system. Fairly certain pump shaft seal is the issue though it makes no noise and does circulate coolant when it is on.

Of course, if anyone has trouble shooting suggestions I'll take em!

Also, looking for suggestions for a non-water based cleaner to remove all the coolant slop. Too cold to use my usual Zep or Simple Green.
 
Last edited:

sleazy rider

Retired moto tech and gearhead
Joined
Dec 8, 2020
Messages
540
Reaction score
499
Location
SE Michigan
Did you bleed the coolant system with the plug on top of the thermostat housing? You have trapped air.

Did you change the thermostat?
 
Top