Brake seizures + stiff pedal !?

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RadCRD05

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Hi guys,

I've been reading the forums and learnt so much about my 05 crd limited Australian version, right side drive, jeep. It's the best vehicle I've ever had, I really love it and it's only done 130000km and has had a lot of work. I can a little work myself eg I did the egr mod, clean maf, change oil and brake pads, filters. Also, It's called the Jeep Cherokee down-under

Now there's a problem I can't work out. It started when I was driving at 60km when brakes seized. Car wouldn't move much at high revs. Seizure released about 3 hrs later and could drive home. I freaked out at the situation so I took it to local mechanic. He did fluid flush with 4 back pads replaced along with hand brake.

At home I also restored 2 back calipers (I didn't replace rubber boots nor inner rubber ring, just cleaned) and I cleaned and greased all pins etc as much as possible. Tbh the right inner rubber piston ring seems too fat and sticks out if it's groove too much, like it impedes the piston motion. But then why would all 4 calipers have the burn odour if the issue was just one caliper?

Now I can drive for 5km until it slowly seizes up. Acrid smell coming from all 4 calipers after a drive like that. I've been told it might be the master brake cylinder. Is that sth able to reinstall at home? It's stressing me out and I miss the old performance.

Last piece of info: it's worse in hot weather, it happened the day after I went off-road (nothing extreme, just driving along stony gravel roads in forest area) and everyday pedal is normal and softish, but will harden after 10 to 15 mins if driving.

Thanks anyone who could help me!
 

tommudd

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If rubber o-rings are swelled they are saturated with brake fluid and need replaced
Also the rubber lines down the the rear diff could be also saturated and when pressing on the brake pedal making for a hard pedal plus making rear brakes stick
 

LibertyTC

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Regular DOT 3 fluid is specified. (SAE J1703)
Is there any chance that the fluid has been contaminated with something else other than DOT3 ? (hopefully no synthetics)
The only other thing I can think of is trying some new calipers, full bleeding procedure, as per Factory service manual. https://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2005JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
What is the aftermarket support down under like for calipers?
 

turblediesel

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Do you have ABS?

I had a '70s Fiat 124 do what you're describing. The problem was the master cylinder. Trick for getting it home was to momentarily crack each bleeder open for a moment to relieve pressure in the calipers and drive like it had no brakes.

My '05 CRD, with ABS, needed new rear calipers with the first change of brake pads. Not sure why since it didn't tow much or get any abnormally hard use.
 

RadCRD05

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Thanks for the replies everyone

Wow it's been tough working this one out but I think it's finally working normally again! eg it's back to gliding along with minimal acceleration and when I pedal down, I get that instant rush of torque and speed again without the dragging sensation and slow seizures of the brakes.

The local mechanic couldn't repair it. The mobile mechanic's scan tool from 2 weeks ago wasn't compatible so he couldn't diagnose it (no charge thankfully) and most recently the guys at another franchise mechanic couldn't work out the problem either and suggested anything from the computer to the loom. Apparently it's spitting out many error codes, refreshes and then more diff ones appear. Take it to the dealership, his finally advice.

Today I did a bit more research online and I removed the ABS pump and valve fuses from the engine bay fuse box and tried driving it and wouldn't you know it, it drives normally again. The abs (yellow) and brake (red) lights are showing on the dash screen and I realise I'll need to still fix the underlying problem eventually, but I think that's it; abs sensor malfunction or some other techy problem.
I took it for a test drive and she's back to its usual punchy self again, and it brakes just like normal too. However I didn't do an emergency brake test and I definitely won't be pushing it hard until it gets sorted.

I hope it'll be okay driving without those fuses for awhile. Any advice or suggestions on the situation would be helpful so please comment if you can!

I owe the online Jeep community alot of thanks
 

RadCRD05

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LibertyTC

The market isn't great it seems. eBay has a few products and I think there's only one jeep wrecker in the state. I'm unsure how much the brake master cylinder would cost ATM.

I'm going to order new rubber caliper sleeves, boots and rings and replace them all. The price to buy a set for 2 calipers is $90 AUD. So 180 for all 4.
I hope the remove abs fuse fix won't cause any issues! Thank you for advice
 

J.C.

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Thanks for the replies everyone

Wow it's been tough working this one out but I think it's finally working normally again! eg it's back to gliding along with minimal acceleration and when I pedal down, I get that instant rush of torque and speed again without the dragging sensation and slow seizures of the brakes.

The local mechanic couldn't repair it. The mobile mechanic's scan tool from 2 weeks ago wasn't compatible so he couldn't diagnose it (no charge thankfully) and most recently the guys at another franchise mechanic couldn't work out the problem either and suggested anything from the computer to the loom. Apparently it's spitting out many error codes, refreshes and then more diff ones appear. Take it to the dealership, his finally advice.

Today I did a bit more research online and I removed the ABS pump and valve fuses from the engine bay fuse box and tried driving it and wouldn't you know it, it drives normally again. The abs (yellow) and brake (red) lights are showing on the dash screen and I realise I'll need to still fix the underlying problem eventually, but I think that's it; abs sensor malfunction or some other techy problem.
I took it for a test drive and she's back to its usual punchy self again, and it brakes just like normal too. However I didn't do an emergency brake test and I definitely won't be pushing it hard until it gets sorted.

I hope it'll be okay driving without those fuses for awhile. Any advice or suggestions on the situation would be helpful so please comment if you can!

I owe the online Jeep community alot of thanks
We have a 2007 CRD LTD and the rear wheel speed sensors needed to be replaced to stop the brake lockups. Even though each of the four wheel sensors were still working within the nominated tolerances, the differences between all four wheels was too much and out of spec.
I bought factory equivalent replacements from Rockauto in the USA.


They even have the Chrysler logo on them.

Easy to fit at home.
 

RadCRD05

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We have a 2007 CRD LTD and the rear wheel speed sensors needed to be replaced to stop the brake lockups. Even though each of the four wheel sensors were still working within the nominated tolerances, the differences between all four wheels was too much and out of spec.
I bought factory equivalent replacements from Rockauto in the USA.


They even have the Chrysler logo on them.

Easy to fit at home.
Thanks JC, I will check that out.
 

RadCRD05

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Why cant good things ever last? o_O Since my last post 10 months ago, I've bled the brakes a few more times because the pedal continued to harden and the brakes would stick. Especially in hot weather. I thought it must have been my bleeding technique so I got so expert advice = Starting with the caliper furthest away from the Brake Oil reservoir in the engine bay, I had a friend pump brake pedal 5-10 times firmly on brake pedal and then hold pedal down. I then cracked the nut and bleed the oil into a clear plastic tube connected to the nub which let the oil flow into a plastic bottle set-up, and then I locked the nut again and my friend released the pedal. I repeated this until there was no air, and then I repeated it another 2-3 times after seeing no air, just to be sure. I did this to ever caliper until the one under the reservoir ]

The brakes seemed to be working OK but after longish drives or high temps, the same old problem would occur = Stiff pedal to the point of almost zero push, need high revs to move, acrid smell. I hate myself every time this happens because I hate doing this to the Jeep; she's been good to me, and reliable.

So I am writing today because I think I may have come across a significant factor but I thought I should write here first. You see, I did the EGR tune, because in Aussie we don't have to regulate exhaust fumes and/or there is no law requiring it, so it disconnected it years ago and then cleaned the MAF and haven't thought of it since. Well, last week I was telling my engineer friend about my issue and I mention the EGR and he said that could be the reason the Auto mechanics haven't been able to get a good error code reading. As I mentioning in the OP, I went to 3-4 different guys and they all said their OBD tool was receiving many mixed messages and 1 was getting nothing at all.
Does anyone think if I reconnected the EGR, then the OBD might give out normal reading and I could finally find out what and where the real problem is? I've been maintaining her well; changing oil and filter a lot, air filter too, and the exhaust is clean and colorless. I also check fluid often. The engine bay is very tidy and I think the previous owner did a lot of repairs. All I need to do is maintain her and she'd last me for ages I reckon so I am desperate to repair this brake problem fully and finally. And thanks JC, I will look at replacing sensors asap. I don't have an OBD tool so I will need to visit a garage and try again. There is a Jeep dealership about 15 minutes away actually, but I am not in a financial position to take it there for repairs.


Thanks in advance for any advice or feedback.

Brad

2005 Black Jeep Cherokee Limited Edition 2.8 CRD @ 125,000 Kilometers
 

J.C.

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Why cant good things ever last? o_O Since my last post 10 months ago, I've bled the brakes a few more times because the pedal continued to harden and the brakes would stick. Especially in hot weather. I thought it must have been my bleeding technique so I got so expert advice = Starting with the caliper furthest away from the Brake Oil reservoir in the engine bay, I had a friend pump brake pedal 5-10 times firmly on brake pedal and then hold pedal down. I then cracked the nut and bleed the oil into a clear plastic tube connected to the nub which let the oil flow into a plastic bottle set-up, and then I locked the nut again and my friend released the pedal. I repeated this until there was no air, and then I repeated it another 2-3 times after seeing no air, just to be sure. I did this to ever caliper until the one under the reservoir ]

The brakes seemed to be working OK but after longish drives or high temps, the same old problem would occur = Stiff pedal to the point of almost zero push, need high revs to move, acrid smell. I hate myself every time this happens because I hate doing this to the Jeep; she's been good to me, and reliable.

So I am writing today because I think I may have come across a significant factor but I thought I should write here first. You see, I did the EGR tune, because in Aussie we don't have to regulate exhaust fumes and/or there is no law requiring it, so it disconnected it years ago and then cleaned the MAF and haven't thought of it since. Well, last week I was telling my engineer friend about my issue and I mention the EGR and he said that could be the reason the Auto mechanics haven't been able to get a good error code reading. As I mentioning in the OP, I went to 3-4 different guys and they all said their OBD tool was receiving many mixed messages and 1 was getting nothing at all.
Does anyone think if I reconnected the EGR, then the OBD might give out normal reading and I could finally find out what and where the real problem is? I've been maintaining her well; changing oil and filter a lot, air filter too, and the exhaust is clean and colorless. I also check fluid often. The engine bay is very tidy and I think the previous owner did a lot of repairs. All I need to do is maintain her and she'd last me for ages I reckon so I am desperate to repair this brake problem fully and finally. And thanks JC, I will look at replacing sensors asap. I don't have an OBD tool so I will need to visit a garage and try again. There is a Jeep dealership about 15 minutes away actually, but I am not in a financial position to take it there for repairs.


Thanks in advance for any advice or feedback.

Brad

2005 Black Jeep Cherokee Limited Edition 2.8 CRD @ 125,000 Kilometers
Hello Brad

Do you still have your KJ?
If so, did you sort out the brake issues?

When our brakes started dragging, I rebuilt the front calipers with new pistons and seals. The rear calipers were flushed/cleaned out, but not yet rebuilt.
I found that a "hard" pedal and "not much braking" was due to the mechanical vacuum pump failing. I have bought an electric pump and fitted a tee piece into the original vacuum hose. Brake booster works well, again.
 

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