New to Jeeps

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Johnny O

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We’ll finally got it in the ground. Rides great. Needs an alignment ASAP. It’s kind of all over the road.

Rides great. Drives great. Little noisy but I figured that’s be the case with these tires. Overall very happy. Just need to get the licensing figured out.
Looks good! I missed it- what meats you chose? They look sharp!
 

Johnny O

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I don’t think I ever mentioned it here. They are 265/75/16 Super Swamper Irok ND.

I don't plan on many actual on highway miles with this truck. It may only see 5,000 miles a year.
Pretty harsh on the mpg I’m guessing? I run stock size Toyo AT3, but I do a lot of mileage.
 

RockinRam96

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Not real sure the impact these will have on mpg. From what I can gather these weren’t that great on fuel even in stock form (26-27 highway). I had a Jetta that did 45+ mpg. I mean my diesel pickups have gotten 18-20 mpg, it’s not what the Jettas are but that is in a full size truck.

I was thinking more of the life of the tire. Interco guarantees them for 25-30,000 miles. Which I don’t thing is a lot. But being this isn’t a DD, it won’t see many miles a year.
 

Johnny O

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Not real sure the impact these will have on mpg. From what I can gather these weren’t that great on fuel even in stock form (26-27 highway). I had a Jetta that did 45+ mpg. I mean my diesel pickups have gotten 18-20 mpg, it’s not what the Jettas are but that is in a full size truck.

I was thinking more of the life of the tire. Interco guarantees them for 25-30,000 miles. Which I don’t thing is a lot. But being this isn’t a DD, it won’t see many miles a year.
Yeah Libertys generally around 20mpg.

I agree, it’s all about longevity and application. I normally dd my VW bug, but like having cool options like heat and seatbelts in the winter.
 

tommudd

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I don’t think I ever mentioned it here. They are 265/75/16 Super Swamper Irok ND.

I don't plan on many actual on highway miles with this truck. It may only see 5,000 miles a year.
Ive done 4 CRDs
3 went with 4.10s and loved them, had more power / mileage etc
2 went with 245-75-16s and one 256-75-16s for a while . and then few months later dropped down to 245-75-16s as well even with 4.10s
 

RockinRam96

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Ive done 4 CRDs
3 went with 4.10s and loved them, had more power / mileage etc
2 went with 245-75-16s and one 256-75-16s for a while . and then few months later dropped down to 245-75-16s as well even with 4.10s
I would like to regear. I just don’t know what direction to head. I’d like to look into upgrading axles/ rear axles. And I’d like a locker. So I figured I’d do it all at one time.

Rather than swapping our ratios to only swap out axles and do it all over again.
 

RockinRam96

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How do these motors like to act in the cold? The past few days it has been extremely cold here (in the single digits F). My jeep had been sitting for about 2 days and I tried to start it. It ran for about 30 seconds and quit. I am guessing the fuel had gelled and starved itself of fuel, as the last time fuel was added was in August before winter fuel hit the gas stations. Although I did pour a bunch of treatment in it before I started it after completing the lift.
 

RockinRam96

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How long do the glow plugs typically cycle in these engines? When I tried starting it, they only stayed on for maybe 5 seconds. I know my dodge pick ups is more like 15-20 (different type of heating element though).
 

RockinRam96

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Tom, what is the difference in the bumper brackets? I found a used bumper for a 2004. With a little fab work can I make it work?
 

tommudd

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Brackets are almost identical
There were some small changes on the 05-07s where brackets hit
I know on the JBA Matrix Brush Guard I tested for JBA, we had to change a bracket on the right side a little
Then the ARB " bumper cover " Of course is different
Saw an 05-07 on a 03 and looked terrible, lines were way off , across grill area etc , but then if it is cheap enough possibly you could make it work
 

RockinRam96

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Finally got the title issues worked out and got the Jeep register yesterday. I think the next thing that I need to do is regear this. Tom, I know you have suggested 4.10 ratio. But what is driving that ratio? Would something lower be better? 4.33? or am I going to be limited by this front end.

The rear is a Dana 30 and the front is a Dana 30A correct? Is there a difference in the gear sets?

This Jeep wont see a ton of highway miles a year so I am not concerned with top speed. However, I would like to be able to tow my little military trailer with my 4 wheeler in it.

Also, suggestions on lockers? For budget reasons, I would like to stay with a mechanical locker. Dana TrueTrac?
 

Michael Wolfe

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How do these motors like to act in the cold? The past few days it has been extremely cold here (in the single digits F). My jeep had been sitting for about 2 days and I tried to start it. It ran for about 30 seconds and quit. I am guessing the fuel had gelled and starved itself of fuel, as the last time fuel was added was in August before winter fuel hit the gas stations. Although I did pour a bunch of treatment in it before I started it after completing the lift.
Hey, just ran across your post. I have an 05 CRD over here in Erie.
Not such a fan of the cold. Especially with the newer style glow plugs. If you can, plug her in when the temp starts hitting the 20's, it'll be a lo easier on everything.
The only time she left me sit was during and extreme cold day. Started sucking air through a loose fuel filter, would start and run, then die after a few seconds. Never a problem since. If you can't plug it in, and she's complaining about the temp, I cycle the ignition and turn over. It will usually try to catch, but then just turn over. I turn the ignition off, wait about 10 seconds, and repeat. Waiting 10 seconds between each attempt usually allows the plugs to fire again. There is a fuel pump available for the fuel tank (none in stock config) which is supposed to help with the fuel situation.
Front diff is a Dana 30 IFS, rear is Chrysler 8.25
Tom is probably best for suspension advice.
EGR system is problematic. Mine fell off... go figure.
Stock torque converter is too weak for the torque of the CRD. If you give it too much fuel under lockup, the lockup clutch will shudder like you're driving on washboard. Upgraded ones are available from suncoast and others. This will be very evident if your computer is re-flashed with a power tune.
CRD has the 545 RFE ******, not the one that comes in the 3.7
CRD is rated to tow 5800# stock.
If you don't have a tow hitch, jeep will install one free. (recall to help protect the fuel tank)
Auto lockers kind of **** IMO
Timing belt replacement is extremely important (100K) if you are not positive it was done, do it. Also rocker replacement while your in there. Expect to replace all your serpentine belt hardware around 130k.

I'm very familiar with my CRD. If you have any questions, just ask.
 

JRB

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The front end will be limited on gear choices as low as 4.10 for the dana 30a up front. When ordering parts confirm with them it's for a 30a, some less ideal vendors will list online that it fits a liberty but the parts aren't actually for the 30a.

As Michael stated, chances are you have the chrysler 8.25 in the rear, a quick google will show you the diff cover images you can confirm that with.
 

RockinRam96

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Hey, just ran across your post. I have an 05 CRD over here in Erie.
Not such a fan of the cold. Especially with the newer style glow plugs. If you can, plug her in when the temp starts hitting the 20's, it'll be a lo easier on everything.
The only time she left me sit was during and extreme cold day. Started sucking air through a loose fuel filter, would start and run, then die after a few seconds. Never a problem since. If you can't plug it in, and she's complaining about the temp, I cycle the ignition and turn over. It will usually try to catch, but then just turn over. I turn the ignition off, wait about 10 seconds, and repeat. Waiting 10 seconds between each attempt usually allows the plugs to fire again. There is a fuel pump available for the fuel tank (none in stock config) which is supposed to help with the fuel situation.
Front diff is a Dana 30 IFS, rear is Chrysler 8.25
Tom is probably best for suspension advice.
EGR system is problematic. Mine fell off... go figure.
Stock torque converter is too weak for the torque of the CRD. If you give it too much fuel under lockup, the lockup clutch will shudder like you're driving on washboard. Upgraded ones are available from suncoast and others. This will be very evident if your computer is re-flashed with a power tune.
CRD has the 545 RFE ******, not the one that comes in the 3.7
CRD is rated to tow 5800# stock.
If you don't have a tow hitch, jeep will install one free. (recall to help protect the fuel tank)
Auto lockers kind of **** IMO
Timing belt replacement is extremely important (100K) if you are not positive it was done, do it. Also rocker replacement while your in there. Expect to replace all your serpentine belt hardware around 130k.

I'm very familiar with my CRD. If you have any questions, just ask.
Thanks for the info. I am pretty familiar with diesel motors and most of the upgrades/ maintenance upgrades to make these things more reliable. The fuel pump and timing belt are certainly high on the list of things to do. Both only make sense.

I don't see starting this in extreme cold temps, as it is a spare vehicle and a toy, I don't plan on putting many miles on it a year. I'd be surprised if I put 5,000 miles on it a year. It will see most of the mileage during deer season in the fall. I did try to start it this winter when it was cold and it didn't want to play. I have plugged it in and it does seem to make a difference.

I do wish to do an EGR delete. I do have all of the computer tuning stuff, I just have to get it done.

Don't really plan for much more power. Transmission seems to shift good a this point and I am not ******* my equipment. I do plan on a deep pan and potentially a shift kit in the near future. From my experience in the past (mostly Dodge transmissions, so know the RFEs) line pressure, or lack there of seems to be a big contributor of the life of the transmission. I put a shift kit in my 48RE in my dodge. What a huge difference it made.

Thanks for the info on the axles an such. I will be sure to get parts for the Dana 30A.

It does have a trailer hitch and an electric plug. Surprisingly all the electric works on the plug too!
 

Michael Wolfe

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Thanks for the info. I am pretty familiar with diesel motors and most of the upgrades/ maintenance upgrades to make these things more reliable. The fuel pump and timing belt are certainly high on the list of things to do. Both only make sense.

I don't see starting this in extreme cold temps, as it is a spare vehicle and a toy, I don't plan on putting many miles on it a year. I'd be surprised if I put 5,000 miles on it a year. It will see most of the mileage during deer season in the fall. I did try to start it this winter when it was cold and it didn't want to play. I have plugged it in and it does seem to make a difference.

I do wish to do an EGR delete. I do have all of the computer tuning stuff, I just have to get it done.

Don't really plan for much more power. Transmission seems to shift good a this point and I am not ******* my equipment. I do plan on a deep pan and potentially a shift kit in the near future. From my experience in the past (mostly Dodge transmissions, so know the RFEs) line pressure, or lack there of seems to be a big contributor of the life of the transmission. I put a shift kit in my 48RE in my dodge. What a huge difference it made.

Thanks for the info on the axles an such. I will be sure to get parts for the Dana 30A.

It does have a trailer hitch and an electric plug. Surprisingly all the electric works on the plug too!
Sasquatch parts has a lot for the CRD. I believe they have upgraded transmission parts like improved pump, shift kit, torque converter, etc. Looking into some drydock time for mine to tackle some rust, and misc. maint.
 

tommudd

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Yes as stated above 4.10s are it
find a 4 ****** gasser and there you will have the 4.10s ya need
easy swap , only thing on a crd is they sit further to the left so you need to use the CRD mounting brackets is all on the front
Rears are super simple to swap over the way I do it
 

Johnny O

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Yes as stated above 4.10s are it
find a 4 ****** gasser and there you will have the 4.10s ya need
easy swap , only thing on a crd is they sit further to the left so you need to use the CRD mounting brackets is all on the front
Rears are super simple to swap over the way I do it
Ah, to clarify, the 4cylinder gasser Libbys are the source for the 4.10 gearing?
 

tommudd

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Ah, to clarify, the 4cylinder gasser Libbys are the source for the 4.10 gearing?
Yes thought you knew that from all we have talked about them on here
They came stock since the 4 cylinders were a dog
Getting harder to find but still out there
I have folks looking all the time and letting me know when they find them and I then " treat them right " ( finders fee )
 

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