Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Yarr! And all that salty stuff!
I was a twidget, but my on shore crowd was all hole snipes and deck apes…and quite a few Jareens.
The $500 ScienceMobile build
- Thread starter Johnny O
- Start date
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I was a twidget, but my on shore crowd was all hole snipes and deck apes…and quite a few Jareens.
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Got most of the oncology done today, beyond cosmetics…
Hope to have the drivetrain issues done this weekend.
finished all the prefab work for the bumpers, but I’m likely going to put that on hold for a bit to fab solid rails for the roof.
wheels are proving to be far more difficult than I expected, so mixed up the proper chromic acid treatments to halt the corrosion.(No, sorry, can’t share details as you can’t do it at home legally as the chemicals involved are toxic enough they give me nightmares, but I had chemistry students that needed help understanding real world applications so it worked out…)
found a full set of OEM steel, but four of 5 failed a UV inspection.
ordered more aluminum to fab a breather/snorkel/oil bath pre-filter to deal with the obscene amounts of dust I’ll have to deal with
Hope to have the drivetrain issues done this weekend.
finished all the prefab work for the bumpers, but I’m likely going to put that on hold for a bit to fab solid rails for the roof.
wheels are proving to be far more difficult than I expected, so mixed up the proper chromic acid treatments to halt the corrosion.(No, sorry, can’t share details as you can’t do it at home legally as the chemicals involved are toxic enough they give me nightmares, but I had chemistry students that needed help understanding real world applications so it worked out…)
found a full set of OEM steel, but four of 5 failed a UV inspection.
ordered more aluminum to fab a breather/snorkel/oil bath pre-filter to deal with the obscene amounts of dust I’ll have to deal with
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Located a parts vehicle in my neighborhood, turns out it’s the other VW guy down the street, so we are going to trade some stuff. I’ve got a vintage set of actual Porsche phone dial wheels and he’s got Moabs…plus’s we each have other goodies to swap.
He smoked the drivetrain on his KJ and decided to switch to a late model Cherokee Tortuga build. I have no clue what that means, but he’s just the next block over, so that’s a big bonus. He needs some oncology done on his 68 bus, and I can borrow some equipment.
Starting to feel like I can at least pretend I know what I’m doing!
He smoked the drivetrain on his KJ and decided to switch to a late model Cherokee Tortuga build. I have no clue what that means, but he’s just the next block over, so that’s a big bonus. He needs some oncology done on his 68 bus, and I can borrow some equipment.
Starting to feel like I can at least pretend I know what I’m doing!
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Well, started suspension work today. Good news is the various ball joints and such were replaced recently by the previous owner, so don’t have to worry much about them. Mostly I’m battling road salt damage. I’ve got a ton of prep work before I even think about putting the new parts in. I thought I’d seen bad stuff on old VWs…at some point someone thought that by having a rubberized undercoat they never had to wash the undercarriage. I have the front end disassembled. Blew though six big spray cans of Kroil, half a propane bottle, and about twenty feet of first aid tape. Good news is the cancer isn’t bad, and can be dealt with by the usual spray rust conversion methods. Bad news is my science geek hands really miss having the old industrial maintenance man calluses. Paid the neighbor kid forty bucks to add youthfully ignorant strength to a few things.
While not Jeep related, he also helped me pull the engine on Das Auto, something I’m not physically able to do solo anymore. He wants to buy the 58 desperately I discovered, so I cut him a deal- I’ll guide him in the engine rebuild and give him 50% off the value of the slowAndlow, in exchange for help with the Jeep repairs.
He’s 17 and really wants to learn, and can help me with the heavy lifting and such. I’m old school, so told him his folks had to OK it. They were totally cool with it, as long as I was willing to fully supervise him any time he’s blowing his fast food money on the Deathtrap.
Going to hang out with the other neighbor and do a “feasibility study” on how the three of us can work together to get a 07 Liberty, 58 bug, 68 bus, and a 97 Jeep Cherokee rocking and rolling across a 3 generational gap.
Never would have thought there’s a neighborhood car culture in Nebraska…it’s like being back in the Township in PA, ‘cept none of us are farmers, miners, or mill workers!
While not Jeep related, he also helped me pull the engine on Das Auto, something I’m not physically able to do solo anymore. He wants to buy the 58 desperately I discovered, so I cut him a deal- I’ll guide him in the engine rebuild and give him 50% off the value of the slowAndlow, in exchange for help with the Jeep repairs.
He’s 17 and really wants to learn, and can help me with the heavy lifting and such. I’m old school, so told him his folks had to OK it. They were totally cool with it, as long as I was willing to fully supervise him any time he’s blowing his fast food money on the Deathtrap.
Going to hang out with the other neighbor and do a “feasibility study” on how the three of us can work together to get a 07 Liberty, 58 bug, 68 bus, and a 97 Jeep Cherokee rocking and rolling across a 3 generational gap.
Never would have thought there’s a neighborhood car culture in Nebraska…it’s like being back in the Township in PA, ‘cept none of us are farmers, miners, or mill workers!
Make sure they are 03-06 Moabs
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Lots of rain here lately, so have been building my water tanks. Had some extra stuff from a non automotive project, so playing around with UVC in the potable water tank to help keep the creeping crud from growing while on long excursions.
basically, the low profile tanks are 6inch schedule 40 PVC pipes connected in a bent U shape. They straddle each side of the cargo area under the flat floor. They sit such that the end towards the engine is higher than the ends at the tailgate. This allows gravity feed. However I have clean outs modified here and there that allow for it to be pressurized with a regular tire compressor for those times I need more pressure. The waste tank is similar, but sits on the centerline. Rather than PVC I used PPCO, otherwise known as nalgene…yes the plastic the company is named after, no not the overpriced polycarbonate they sell to folks as waterbottles. While I try to limit hazmat as much as possible in the field, the tank has to be both chemical resistant and autoclavable. I’m kind of proud of this one as it is a modular design that uses kynar fittings and such…so is actually there tanks in one and still fits in my autoclave at the labs.
ive also dumped my plans for solar. I don’t need it as it is more cost effective to convert my equipment to low voltage USB or to 12 volt DC.
basically, the low profile tanks are 6inch schedule 40 PVC pipes connected in a bent U shape. They straddle each side of the cargo area under the flat floor. They sit such that the end towards the engine is higher than the ends at the tailgate. This allows gravity feed. However I have clean outs modified here and there that allow for it to be pressurized with a regular tire compressor for those times I need more pressure. The waste tank is similar, but sits on the centerline. Rather than PVC I used PPCO, otherwise known as nalgene…yes the plastic the company is named after, no not the overpriced polycarbonate they sell to folks as waterbottles. While I try to limit hazmat as much as possible in the field, the tank has to be both chemical resistant and autoclavable. I’m kind of proud of this one as it is a modular design that uses kynar fittings and such…so is actually there tanks in one and still fits in my autoclave at the labs.
ive also dumped my plans for solar. I don’t need it as it is more cost effective to convert my equipment to low voltage USB or to 12 volt DC.
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Finally got the propeller shaft that was removed. Great news, I don’t need to buy a shaft.! Forward CV is shot. Rear CV is serviceable, but since it is out, might as well rebuild both. It had been sitting out in the weather, so needs some love/rust busted…but mechanically sound…which means I have some extra from my 3k budget to get some other goodies.
working overtime at the labs wrestling catfish and herding cats, so gonna splurge and go ahead and get those nice red UCAs.
started prepping raw stock for the bumpers.
Brushing up on my welding a bit as it has been a while since I did anything beyond body tacks and such.
still having difficulty with wheels, but now know exactly what I need thanks to the gang here.
working overtime at the labs wrestling catfish and herding cats, so gonna splurge and go ahead and get those nice red UCAs.
started prepping raw stock for the bumpers.
Brushing up on my welding a bit as it has been a while since I did anything beyond body tacks and such.
still having difficulty with wheels, but now know exactly what I need thanks to the gang here.
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Welp, drive train is done! Rear suspension is in, just working on corrosion prevention and cosmetics. Having to peel the rubberized undercoating off of the tricky bits and clean and prep as I go.
As for the front end, I found a few minor issues with wiring and such so correcting all that.
have completely finished fabrication of my bumper mounts. Having some minor geometry issues as I calculated some angles wrong on the bumper itself, so, I’m fabbing a plywood mock up first, then can disassemble it and use as templates for the aluminum. Oh , I can hear it already…aluminum! Remember, there is method to my madness…I don’t want or need a wincher, but I do need more than plastic and a u channel!
not going to do the back bumper just yet as I’m still thinking about applications, however a friend gave me a tail hitch rack that covers me on fuel and ethanol jerry cans for the 4500 mile excursion in July.
probably gonna get some mall rated wheels for now as good wheels that fit my needs are proving difficult. I suspect more will be available as college closes out and I can scam…errm…cut a deal on wheels off some kid’s junker…
I have also started gutting the interior and replacing all that suburbia cloth and plastic with lighter, more functional materials.
my jeeper neighbor has been a great help, even though his Moabs weren’t compatible, we have been trading VW parts and fabrication skills- I can do sheet metal work and have an industrial sewing machine and he has better carpentry equipment and and access to a wood laser cutter. We are planning to have his Tortuga build and my ScienceMobile ready for an experimental test excursion with both vehicles in June.
as my KJ has half sport/half limited equipment, I’ve decided to ignore transition model year shenanigans and just going “dirty DIY custom”
my water and waste system is finished and is being tested Memorial Day weekend in a friends VW squareback Baja. I’m bragging here as I’m rather proud of the low maintenance modular design and 12volt DC UV sterilization. Also, who the frak Baja’s a squareback?
As for the front end, I found a few minor issues with wiring and such so correcting all that.
have completely finished fabrication of my bumper mounts. Having some minor geometry issues as I calculated some angles wrong on the bumper itself, so, I’m fabbing a plywood mock up first, then can disassemble it and use as templates for the aluminum. Oh , I can hear it already…aluminum! Remember, there is method to my madness…I don’t want or need a wincher, but I do need more than plastic and a u channel!
not going to do the back bumper just yet as I’m still thinking about applications, however a friend gave me a tail hitch rack that covers me on fuel and ethanol jerry cans for the 4500 mile excursion in July.
probably gonna get some mall rated wheels for now as good wheels that fit my needs are proving difficult. I suspect more will be available as college closes out and I can scam…errm…cut a deal on wheels off some kid’s junker…
I have also started gutting the interior and replacing all that suburbia cloth and plastic with lighter, more functional materials.
my jeeper neighbor has been a great help, even though his Moabs weren’t compatible, we have been trading VW parts and fabrication skills- I can do sheet metal work and have an industrial sewing machine and he has better carpentry equipment and and access to a wood laser cutter. We are planning to have his Tortuga build and my ScienceMobile ready for an experimental test excursion with both vehicles in June.
as my KJ has half sport/half limited equipment, I’ve decided to ignore transition model year shenanigans and just going “dirty DIY custom”
my water and waste system is finished and is being tested Memorial Day weekend in a friends VW squareback Baja. I’m bragging here as I’m rather proud of the low maintenance modular design and 12volt DC UV sterilization. Also, who the frak Baja’s a squareback?
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Well, had to skip a few days of work due to weather and my job, but got to spend a full six hours of the ScienceMobile today. Given the long holiday weekend, I'm giving myself a break from greasemonkeying, as I'll have four full days of perfect weather for beating junk into submission.
This vehicle had been parked under a pine tree at some point, so there was big blobs of sap that I am pretty certain were mere weeks away from becoming valuable gemstone-grade amber...nothing a little automotive GooGone, some creative sailor grade language and a plastic ice scraper couldn't fix.
I was also able to repair the tailgate and rear window latch! everything working great...except for the key fob...but just got done reading up on all the troubleshooting secrets, so will play with all that tomorrow. Will likely have to buy new fobs, sine I have only the one.
I have forever made my first noob mistake....I ordered a regulator replacement for the rear passenger window before actually taking the door apart....so have to return that one and get the proper one. Found the sticker on the vapor barrier that reads:
THIS DOOR REQUIRES DIFFERENT SERVICE COMPONENTS. REFERENCE THE MOPAR CATALOGUE SERVICE BULLETIN FOR INFORMATION 68058661AA
So, after this update time to hit the books and ask for an RMA.
I'll post some pictures of this small roadblock shortly. For now I have a few buna wedges to keep the glass up and closed rather that the trash bag and duct tape rig the previous owner was running. However, I did learn that the issue is the orange fuzzy flexi shaft is busted, hence the issue. Glass is in the tracks and moves freely and the motor works, but depending on prices it looks to be less trouble to just replace the whole assembly for the the prices I've been seeing.
This vehicle had been parked under a pine tree at some point, so there was big blobs of sap that I am pretty certain were mere weeks away from becoming valuable gemstone-grade amber...nothing a little automotive GooGone, some creative sailor grade language and a plastic ice scraper couldn't fix.
I was also able to repair the tailgate and rear window latch! everything working great...except for the key fob...but just got done reading up on all the troubleshooting secrets, so will play with all that tomorrow. Will likely have to buy new fobs, sine I have only the one.
I have forever made my first noob mistake....I ordered a regulator replacement for the rear passenger window before actually taking the door apart....so have to return that one and get the proper one. Found the sticker on the vapor barrier that reads:
THIS DOOR REQUIRES DIFFERENT SERVICE COMPONENTS. REFERENCE THE MOPAR CATALOGUE SERVICE BULLETIN FOR INFORMATION 68058661AA
So, after this update time to hit the books and ask for an RMA.
I'll post some pictures of this small roadblock shortly. For now I have a few buna wedges to keep the glass up and closed rather that the trash bag and duct tape rig the previous owner was running. However, I did learn that the issue is the orange fuzzy flexi shaft is busted, hence the issue. Glass is in the tracks and moves freely and the motor works, but depending on prices it looks to be less trouble to just replace the whole assembly for the the prices I've been seeing.
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
duderz7
Full Access Member
That coil worm looking thing should be inside a plastic tube that it run back and forth in. Looks like it might be laying in the door there.
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Yep. Just got done reading up on it. Found metal replacement clips for under 30$. I’ll disassemble tomorrow and determine if just that clip or if additional issues!
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
SCORE!
Just found a full set of 5 of refurbed OEM steels...in black...for 260$ including delivery and sales tax.
So this is shaping up to be a fairly good deal:
500 for the jeep. just under 70 for tax/title/tags. 20 for rear window struts. a grand for suspension lift. 260 for the wheels. 350 for assorted materials for cancer repair, water and waste tanks, flat floor and bumper fab. Spent 45 on the wrong window regulator, RMA that, and get the proper one or repair parts (either 60$ or 20$ depending on which route I can go-TBD)
All that is left to be ready for my mid-July fossil and worm hunting trip is tires.
I figure if I keep watching sales like a hawk and abuse my various contacts I can get the 5 tires I want, mounted and balanced in time for the trip for 600 or less.
So, for less than a grand I'm mobile again, For around 2 grand, I can go on my annual big trip and do my regular weekend and four day excursions. The july trip alone would have cost 3 grand to do in a rental, and most weekender trips were running me 350-500.
Looks like this is all coming together as planned, for about 2k less than I expected to spend...and no car payments!
Time to really knuckle down and get this thing ready for the before and after photo montage I plan to close this thread out with! (Been taking pictures for almost all the work to share when it is useable)
Just found a full set of 5 of refurbed OEM steels...in black...for 260$ including delivery and sales tax.
So this is shaping up to be a fairly good deal:
500 for the jeep. just under 70 for tax/title/tags. 20 for rear window struts. a grand for suspension lift. 260 for the wheels. 350 for assorted materials for cancer repair, water and waste tanks, flat floor and bumper fab. Spent 45 on the wrong window regulator, RMA that, and get the proper one or repair parts (either 60$ or 20$ depending on which route I can go-TBD)
All that is left to be ready for my mid-July fossil and worm hunting trip is tires.
I figure if I keep watching sales like a hawk and abuse my various contacts I can get the 5 tires I want, mounted and balanced in time for the trip for 600 or less.
So, for less than a grand I'm mobile again, For around 2 grand, I can go on my annual big trip and do my regular weekend and four day excursions. The july trip alone would have cost 3 grand to do in a rental, and most weekender trips were running me 350-500.
Looks like this is all coming together as planned, for about 2k less than I expected to spend...and no car payments!
Time to really knuckle down and get this thing ready for the before and after photo montage I plan to close this thread out with! (Been taking pictures for almost all the work to share when it is useable)
duderz7
Full Access Member
Got a set on order fit my rear doors too, as one of mine just gave up the other day.
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Good news: far cheaper fix than expected:
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Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Also took a total of six hours, but I got all the hardened sap off without destroying the paint. Used Turtle Wax bug and tar and a Magic Eraser. Followed it up with a good wash and some Meguirer’s. There is a faint blue stain where the sap was, but it is barely noticeable and will fade in time I suspect.
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Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
You watched the how to video A1 Auto has on YouTube? I don't know if they are reliable or not, and they no longer sell the metal upgrades separately, but by using their method I was bale to get the old regulator out in an bout 10 minutes.
duderz7
Full Access Member
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANQ5BF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_JHWN1RDWGEDMKWYYVNTF check the link, tou can also buy a single side, but it's cost effective to buy a pair. If the window motor and the rest of the running gear for it is usable this is the way to go.
Johnny O
Just hangin' out.
Funny, that is the same set I ordered. In my case, everything else is intact and the motor works fine, so Ill fold onto the other for when that one fails.
duderz7
Full Access Member
Oh yeah, I guess I kinda remember you saying that earlier. I'm gonna go ahead and replace both. It was raining hard the other day when my window decided to start going down. When the front passenger went out it was -12°F and I had about 20 miles of freeway and highway to go. Doesn't seem like they fail when convenient.
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