What did you do to your jeep today?

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lfhoward

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I would love to figure out a (set of ?) auxiliary fuel tank(s) under the jeep. would be awesome to have for either extended range or for transporting race fuel for the car when I go to the track.
I have always thought it would be cool to have a KJ Liberty gas tank as an auxiliary tank on the KK in place of the spare tire, thus having about 40 total gallons of fuel. The spare could go on the tailgate via a receiver hitch tire carrier or on a swing-out attached to a custom steel bumper. One can dream.
 

sota

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I saw some comments and threads about rear brakes hanging up, but can't find them now.
What's the consensus for the most common cause:
stuck piston
stuck pins
failed hose

seems that changing the hoses is a bit of a pain, in terms of finding parts?
 

Johnny O

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I saw some comments and threads about rear brakes hanging up, but can't find them now.
What's the consensus for the most common cause:
stuck piston
stuck pins
failed hose

seems that changing the hoses is a bit of a pain, in terms of finding parts?
As a matter of habit I always check the cylinder for leaks first. Then pins, then pistons.
 

sota

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well, I pulled the driver side apart
sure enough, one of the pin sleeves is all corroded to hell on the outside, causing it to hang up.
no problem, go to the parts store, buy 2 kits, because maybe the passenger is bad too (didn't take it apart first. mistake.)
driver side all assembled and happy. go check the passenger.
sure enough, one of the sleeves is also shot... but it's because the boot has a BIG HOLE in it.
part store is getting a boot kit in for me sometime after 1pm.

FML
 

CrazyDrei

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Pulled the fuel tank out.

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It was surprisingly easy to remove by myself.

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There is a handle on the passenger side of the fuel tank, does anyone know why?
 

65Corvair

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Washed the engine bay and the bottom of the jeep to prepare for new transmission fluid and new spark plugs.
 

HatterMT

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Found out the rattle in my engine was a broken primary chain tensioner. Good times. . . . thankfully no major engine damage but still. . .
 

sota

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Fixed the dragging driver's rear brake.
One of the sleeves was corroded to hell.
Passenger side had one on its way out as well.
Bought pin/boot/hardware kits from napa, and refreshed all 4 sleeves.
 

CherokeeLiberty

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I got some LED fog bulbs to try out. I’ll go for a drive tonight to try them out. In the meantime, I’m chasing the front end growl. Diff fluid was a tad low and dirty, so I’m changing it out.

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Johnny O

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Busted some (ok, A metric crap ton of ) rust. Got wicked with the naval jelly and rust converter.
Tracked down various suspension parts. Waiting on a few other parts already ordered. Built A scale version of the water tank and tested it to failure. Making a few.design changes as result. Scored some free sheets of honeycomb core fiberglass sandwich for the flat floor...traded a vintage Colman stove for the panels, should allow me to shave 50lbs of my original lumber and plywood design.

Found a 10mm socket under the back seat...which is good as I still can't.find mine.

Banging head against wall reading about all this alien technology, but enjoying it.
 

David13

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Put the code reader (Autel MK808) on the Jeep and drove to work, 22 miles. Engine got up to 203 and stayed there. Transmission up to 176 and stayed there.

That indicates to me that the water pump and thermostat are working. I'm gong to do an overnight pressure test on the radiator. And then take out the overflow/windshield washer box and air box to get the fan out and put in a mechanical cooling fan. But first flush the radiator and replace the thermostat, and maybe the water pump after closer inspection of it.

I notice like a fiber gunk in the radiator, maybe put in to hide some little leak. I may also do a pressure test on the heater core. I'll bypass that thing til next winter if it leaks. I just saw a video on one of those (Nitro, I think) which appeared exactly the same as mine. 6 1/2 hours. But he was going full speed. I'll be doing 2 hours a day, and then off to work. In the winter when I can't be out on the trails.

I may also get a radiator if needed. I want a solid system, that I feel won't fail me on the road.

I think the fact that the transmission with 85 to 88 degree temperatures outside stayed at 176 indicates to me that the bypass value is working as is whatever it's hooked up to in terms of coolers.

But I may want to add and extra cooler anyway.

When I went up the canyon road, I was in 2 high. I might have done better in 2.

I now believe that all Jeeps have the "Tow Mode" switch, whether it works or not. I'd like to find out if that's true. I need to check my Autel on it to see if it can tell me.
dc
 

CherokeeLiberty

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I changed the front driver’s wheel bearing and no longer have that growl. There was very little play and it was still bad, just as Tom said!

Bad news portion: that CV has a torn boot, and Napa is a week out. So, I threw everything back together, and I’ll have to wait a little bit to order it.
 

David13

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TOW MODE-KK


Tow mode is only on the KK. I thought (meant) KJ and KK, but ok. Only on the KK.

Now what I read on a post somewhere was all KKs have the tow mode switch, even if the transmission doesn't have the tow mode. That doesn't make much sense, or does it.

I know the light on the dash lights up if I put it in tow mode. I suppose I could drive it and try to see, but it's difficult for me to tell if it's in over drive or not. Sometimes I can see it, when the rpms drop, but other times no.

Yesterday I put the radiator pressure tester on the rad and left if for 3 hours. No drop. It did go up, yes the pressure increased from around 15 to about 18. Now how could that happen?

The sun was shining on it, causing the fluid to expand, which increased the pressure.
dc
 

tommudd

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Tow mode is only on the KK. I thought (meant) KJ and KK, but ok. Only on the KK.

Now what I read on a post somewhere was all KKs have the tow mode switch, even if the transmission doesn't have the tow mode. That doesn't make much sense, or does it.

I know the light on the dash lights up if I put it in tow mode. I suppose I could drive it and try to see, but it's difficult for me to tell if it's in over drive or not. Sometimes I can see it, when the rpms drop, but other times no.

Yesterday I put the radiator pressure tester on the rad and left if for 3 hours. No drop. It did go up, yes the pressure increased from around 15 to about 18. Now how could that happen?

The sun was shining on it, causing the fluid to expand, which increased the pressure.
dc
Tow Mode from what I know is just a " special way " of saying that you kick the Overdrive off in a KK
Plus supposedly there are a couple of other computer controlled things that happen
One reason I like the earlier KJs , not so much electronic stuff to go bad
In a KJ if you are going to pull a trailer you just kick the OD off and go
Nice and simple . the way 4X4s used to be, well not quite but a good in between
I still love getting out, locking in the hubs, pulling the stick back into 4WD and going
 

sota

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locking hubs would mean I'd have access to 2LO without having to tear into the t-case. :D
or pulling the front driveshaft.
 

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