Dead Liberty CRD. Need help BIG TIME!

Davide33 · Dec 14, 2020

Hello, I’m new to the site but not new to diesels. I’ve driven VW TDI’s for close to 15 years and did all my own work. My last TDI had 416,000 miles on it when some A-hole blew through an intersection and totaled it. If you want to check out the dash cam video, here is the link.

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Looking for a replacement diesel, I purchased a 2005 Jeep Liberty with 91,000 miles. On the test drive I could tell it was way low on power, but I was just cocky enough to believe I could fix it, and the price was right. I noticed the check engine was on. The seller explained that he had done an EGR delete which caused the check engine light, which made sense. On my way home after driving at highway speed for one hour I stopped for fuel. After fueling up I was driving in town and 35 mph, the Jeep died. It was as if I turned off the key. No coughing or sputtering, just died. Yes, I'm sure I filled it with diesel. I had the Jeep towed home. It cranks but will not fire. I bought a scanner and pulled the codes. About 15 of them! After reviewing the codes, I noticed that most of the codes are low voltage. I understand the CRD's are voltage sensitive, so I purchased a new Duracell 800 CCA battery. I’m getting 12.2 Volts from a meter I plug into the cigarette lighter. I cleared the codes and rescanned. Same codes showed up. I checked the fuses and they seem to be fine. I also plugged a Noid Light into the fuel injector plug and it does not blink while cranking. I’ve go to admit I’m might be in over my head on this one. I don't understand, with good battery voltage how all of these sensors could be reading low voltage.

Also: Before scanning the codes I removed the Flow Control Valve just to see if it was clogged. Its been cleaned out, but the idiot that did the EGR delete never plugged the Flow Control Valve exhaust connection after the pipe was removed. So there was about a 1 inch connection blowing turbo boost into the engine compartment. Low power explained.

This is the report form my Torque Scanner. The code definitions following the word null are the codes I looked up. All others are directly from the scanner. I'll admit I don't know what the null means.

Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================

Vehicle VIN: 1J8GL585X5W629541
Vehicle Manufacturer: Jeep
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present

Current Fault Log
------------------
P0047: null Turbocharger Boost Control Circuit Low
P0091: null Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Circuit Low
P0489: null Exhaust Gast Recirculation Control Circuit Low
P0670: null Glow Plug Control Module Circuit Fault
P1251: null Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid Short To Ground
P2295: Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Control Circuit Low

Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0091: null Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit Low
P0489: null Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Control Circuit Low
P0562: System Voltage Low
P1189: Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit
P1189: Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit
P1251: null Air Mixture Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P2141: 2) Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Control Circuit Low

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
B2TAE: null Appears to be a Torque Software Nonsense Code
P2264: Water in Fuel Sensor Circuit

End of report.

LibertyTC · Dec 14, 2020

Welcome.
Wow that video was a real eye opener, scary stuff right there. Who gave him a driver's license? Hope you were ok.
Hopefully some of our CRD experienced members can make some recommendations to help you, hang in there.

turblediesel · Dec 14, 2020

First, and easiest, try bleeding air from the fuel system at the fuel filter with the hand pump and bleed screw. "Air in fuel" is pretty common and can be cured with an in-tank lift pump. Check and see if the fuel filter head is plastic or metal. The plastic heads melt around the fuel heater connection and allow air in the fuel. Another clue is the electric plug nearest the fender on the filter head. If it's blue you have the metal one.

EGR deletes come in different forms. Sasquatch made a kit with a stainless plug for the back of the exhaust manifold where the tube attaches. Awkward to install and no longer available. Tube doesn't provide any boost, just exhaust crud.

Check the bottom of the big air hose between the air filter and turbo. They rot a hole there which fakes out the reading from one of the airbox sensors.

Any idea when the last timing belt change happened? Any chance you could ask the previous owner. They're only good for 100,000 miles or 6 years. Water pump needs replacement at the same time since they don't last two belts. Belt failures can be quiet peacefull events or totally catastrophic depending on speed and luck. Either way, the thing stops and many rocker-lifters are broken. They all probably need replacement anyway since the abrasive crud introduced by the EGR system wears the pivot pins and the valves don't open as much as they should. Sasquatch has a kit to add a Provent air-oil seperator which keeps the cruddy oil out of the intake. To check for a broken belt, have someone crank it while you look in the oil fill hole. If the intake cam isn't spinning, the belt broke. Sometimes they don't break or shred completely. They can lose a tooth or jump teeth and change valve timing which will keep it from starting.

Original ceramic glow plugs can fall apart and redistribute the valves into the holey pistons. They should be replaced with 5 volt Bosch metal glow plugs and it won't start as well in the cold.

ID Parts has all the parts you might need. Some of your TDI tools will work for holding cam pulleys, and you'll need belt timing pins and a cam pulley clamping gadget to do a timing belt job.

LOSTJEEPS forum has the most info on the 2.8 CRD. Whatever's wrong with your jeep has already happened many times.

If you're a total optimist give that new battery a good charging and try it again. All Libertys get goofy without enough juice going to the computers.

Good luck!

Davide33 · Dec 14, 2020

Turblediesel, Thanks for the advice. I've tried to join Lost Jeeps. I get the welcome email, but when I try to log in I get a message stating that my ID is inactive and to contact the board administrator. I've been trying to get ahold of someone for weeks without luck. A friend of mine also tried to join with the same results.

I have blead the fuel filter and it seems to be primed. I've ordered new filters, so I'll do it again when I install the new fuel filter. I'll check if I have the plastic head and will replace it if I do. The exhaust manifold EGR port does appear to be plugged as it should be with the EGR delete. The guy failed to plug the one in the Flow control valve which was allowing the turbo boosted air to escape. You were correct about the hose between the turbo and air box. Mine was rotted and had a hole in it. I've ordered a new one. I don't have an idea about the timing belt but assume its the original. I'm going to try to do a compression test soon with equipment that has just arrived. This should give me an idea of the engines overall health and would definitely reveal if I had a timing belt issue. I plan on changing the timing belt as soon as possible. As you suggested, I will replace the glow plugs. I live in Arizona so cold weather starts are not much of an issue.

I think right now my main concern is all the "Control Circuit Low" error codes. Even after correcting all the other issues, If the injectors are not getting a signal its not going to start.

Davide33 · Dec 14, 2020

LibertyTC said:
Welcome.
Wow that video was a real eye opener, scary stuff right there. Who gave him a driver's license? Hope you were ok.
Hopefully some of our CRD experienced members can make some recommendations to help you, hang in there.

Thanks! The guy who caused the accident was a total looser who was fleeing police. They were trying to serve him with an attempted ****** warrant, along with multiple burglary warrants. The sad part is, he had a female passenger who was ejected and killed. He had no insurance and the person who owned the vehicle also had no insurance. The driver is sitting in jail right now. I would up with a bad concussion and a jacked up neck and back. But, with physical therapy the neck and back are much better. The concussion stuff is taking longer. In spite of everything I feel very fortunate. 5 feet further up the road and I would have taken that hit in the drivers door.

turblediesel · Dec 14, 2020

Give me your LOSTJEEPs username, and your friend's, and I'll relay to a mod over there. I had the same problem when I was without internet, or check-ins for a long time.

I can make you a deal on some new uninstalled 7 volt etechno glow plugs which should work fine in AZ but not in AK. My jeep's been down for years while my interest has been hijacked by medical hobbies. Doing better, nowadays I just forget the jeep still exists. Good luck on your recovery. I hope they throw the library at the bum.

Davide33 · Dec 14, 2020

turblediesel said:
Give me your LOSTJEEPs username, and your friend's, and I'll relay to a mod over there. I had the same problem when I was without internet, or check-ins for a long time.

I can make you a deal on some new uninstalled 7 volt etechno glow plugs which should work fine in AZ but not in AK. My jeep's been down for years while my interest has been hijacked by medical hobbies. Doing better, nowadays I just forget the jeep still exists. Good luck on your recovery. I hope they throw the library at the bum.

Thanks! I really appreciate it. My user name is Davide33 and my girlfriends' is JeepinJamie. I would definitely be interested in the glow plugs.

Billwill · Dec 15, 2020

Welcome. I also got lost on Lost years ago...eventually got back into the site but under a new Username...I look like a relative Newcomer!

SAMS NOOB guide on Losts' "Liberty CRD Love that Torque" section gives a good introduction to the CRD engine a nd layout.

Both on Lost and here there is a link to the Jeep KJ Service Manuals...if you do not already have the Manuals download your year KJ Service Manuals here:

www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/
Section 8W has the Wiring diagrams including the Grounding points.

With your meter across the battery what voltage do you get when engine turns over...should be about 8.6 volts.

With engine running it should be about 13.4 volts.

If not so...could be bad grounds or the Alternator Pulley could be fading but that normally lights up the Red "battery" icon.

turblediesel · Dec 15, 2020

Passed on your info and the cogs are beginning to turn. I'll keep you posted or you'll hear from somebody.

Price on the glow plugs dropped after I got them so I lose at any price. Check with your previous owner to see it if the ceramics are already gone. PM an address.

Davide33 · Dec 16, 2020

Billwill said:
Welcome. I also got lost on Lost years ago...eventually got back into the site but under a new Username...I look like a relative Newcomer!

SAMS NOOB guide on Losts' "Liberty CRD Love that Torque" section gives a good introduction to the CRD engine a nd layout.

Both on Lost and here there is a link to the Jeep KJ Service Manuals...if you do not already have the Manuals download your year KJ Service Manuals here:

www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/
Section 8W has the Wiring diagrams including the Grounding points.

With your meter across the battery what voltage do you get when engine turns over...should be about 8.6 volts.

With engine running it should be about 13.4 volts.

If not so...could be bad grounds or the Alternator Pulley could be fading but that normally lights up the Red "battery" icon.

Davide33 · Dec 16, 2020

Thanks for your help. I've located the ground points and cleaned them but to be honest they were already pretty clean. I have 10.8 volts across the battery when cranking. Since it does not yet run, I don't know what the alternator voltage is. I'm replacing the cam and crank sensors today an hoping for the best.

Davide33 · Dec 16, 2020

turblediesel said:
Passed on your info and the cogs are beginning to turn. I'll keep you posted or you'll hear from somebody.

Price on the glow plugs dropped after I got them so I lose at any price. Check with your previous owner to see it if the ceramics are already gone. PM an address.

I appreciate you help with Lost Jeeps. I have not been able to contact the previous owner. I plan on replacing the glow plugs anyway, since I will be removing them to do a compression test I figured I'd put new ones back in. I'll PM you an address as soon as I figure out how to do that on this site.

Billwill · Dec 18, 2020

The 2005 KJ CRD is the one and only year that fitted a "Front Control Module" (FCM).
This is a unit floating around inside the engine bay....members here should be able to tell you exactly where it is.

This Module has all of the Serial Busses passing through it...PCI, CAN, SCSI etc.

According to one description of this unit in the Service Manual this FCM merely passes these Busses on....has no Drivers inside!

However I did see a post with pictures where one of these FCM modules was opened up to to reveal plenty Transistors and modules on the circuit board!

Either way....there have been plenty posts of this unit causing problems. It is mounted in the engine bay and the single connector on it gets exposed to mud, water, salt etc.

Sometimes cleaning this connector out nicely resolves the issues or try find another 2005 CRD owner who could swap a FCM over with you.

The reports I have read is that it is difficult to find a FCM at Breaker yards...only the 2005 KJs have them and they are probably in great demand!

Bad communication along the Busses could cause problems in the ECM, BCM, Cluster, TCM etc. and could be a cause of most of your Error Codes and lack of firing up!

turblediesel · Dec 18, 2020

Mine's an '05 and I have no idea where the FCM is. Now I'm curious.

DadOSix · Dec 18, 2020

LOSTJEEPS SEZ:

"The Front Control Module (FCM) (2)(FRONT CONTROL MODULE) is located in the engine compartment below the Power Distribution Center (PDC), below the battery tray. The FCM's primary function is to define communications between electronic controllers and move data collected from the multiple controllers to the host controller for processing using Controller Area Network (CAN), Programmable Communication Interface (PCI) buss or J1850. The FCM does not contain any drivers, and therefore does not directly operate any vehicle components."

"the Front Control Module (Gateway module)controls the fuel level sensor, low oil pressure light, A/C pressure sensor, generator/alternator field control, and Water In Fuel Sensor"

Only used on 2005 CRD

Davide33 · Dec 18, 2020

Billwill said:
The 2005 KJ CRD is the one and only year that fitted a "Front Control Module" (FCM).
This is a unit floating around inside the engine bay....members here should be able to tell you exactly where it is.

This Module has all of the Serial Busses passing through it...PCI, CAN, SCSI etc.

According to one description of this unit in the Service Manual this FCM merely passes these Busses on....has no Drivers inside!

However I did see a post with pictures where one of these FCM modules was opened up to to reveal plenty Transistors and modules on the circuit board!

Either way....there have been plenty posts of this unit causing problems. It is mounted in the engine bay and the single connector on it gets exposed to mud, water, salt etc.

Sometimes cleaning this connector out nicely resolves the issues or try find another 2005 CRD owner who could swap a FCM over with you.

The reports I have read is that it is difficult to find a FCM at Breaker yards...only the 2005 KJs have them and they are probably in great demand!

Bad communication along the Busses could cause problems in the ECM, BCM, Cluster, TCM etc. and could be a cause of most of your Error Codes and lack of firing up!

I'm really happy to read your post! From what I had read, I too thought that a lot of these errors seemed to be in common with the FCM. I removed the unit and cleaned the connections but it made no difference. Last week I found one on Ebay. It was listed for $95.00 while all others seemed to be in $250.00 range, so I snapped it up. It should arrive in another week. Fingers Crossed! I'll post as soon as I put it in.

turblediesel · Dec 19, 2020

Another way to check if your fuel filter head has been upgraded is the scratch test. Use something sharp and scrape the filter head on the main casting. If it's metal(good) paint will flake off and show metal underneath. If it's plastic(bad) there won't be any paint flaking or change in color below.

LostJeeps has a post somewhere on glow plug markings that might tell you if the ceramic plugs have been replaced already. A colored ring near the threads if I'm remembering right.

turblediesel · Dec 20, 2020

The membership cogs are still turning at Lost so don't lose hope.

Davide33 · Dec 20, 2020

Thanks!

Davide33 · Feb 24, 2021

PROBLEM SOLVED!!! I've been meaning to get back here for a while and post what I found. After viewing MANY posts and as DadOSix and Billwill stated, most to the errors were common to the Front Gateway Module. I picked one up from Ebay and installed it. The Jeep fired right up!! Thanks for everyone's help!

DadOSix said:
LOSTJEEPS SEZ:

"The Front Control Module (FCM) (2)(FRONT CONTROL MODULE) is located in the engine compartment below the Power Distribution Center (PDC), below the battery tray. The FCM's primary function is to define communications between electronic controllers and move data collected from the multiple controllers to the host controller for processing using Controller Area Network (CAN), Programmable Communication Interface (PCI) buss or J1850. The FCM does not contain any drivers, and therefore does not directly operate any vehicle components."

"the Front Control Module (Gateway module)controls the fuel level sensor, low oil pressure light, A/C pressure sensor, generator/alternator field control, and Water In Fuel Sensor"

Only used on 2005 CRD

Dead Liberty CRD. Need help BIG TIME!

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