Mistakes were made.. P-(

so, purchased a 2003 KJ LTD 4x4 - 123k on the odometer.. 250k on the title (i found out later) GHHAAAA

Seems she was a tow-behind since she has the rig bolted to her frame in the front. Maybe mileage was not the ****** hornet I am thinking..

New tires - cold AC - leather - clean - pretty - temporary replacement for my DD that is laid up for a new PCM

So - like all new-to-me cars, I promptly
- Changed all fluids - Trans-filter and pan oil, pumpkins, brake, power steering..

but, what about the OIL you say.. whelp..
- Drain Bolt was more like a round blob than a hex head
- Heat, HF bolt extractor (kinda square), Irwin Bolt extractor (kinda swirlie), heat, cold chisel, heat, grind, chisel..
- Finally ground off the bold head and most of the flange. Then came the Tophatter $9 extractor set - BOOM - dug in and took that biotch out. duno if it was the grinding, grinding heat, or the left hand drill.

New window regulator on both pass side, 6 new speakers, new 9" android head, new plugs, COPS, fuel filter, CAI (just do it - they are COOL and sound AWESOME - #### the haters), Borla **** - stock pipe, LED Head and fog lights, 24" LED Bar bolted to front license plate holes. Junk yard for a few things - bottle jack kit, arm rest, missing screws.

lOOks like i will be replacing the Drivers regulator now.. grrr.. thoughts of money pit coming to mind.

Have a puck lift in the box.. waiting to see if she makes 1000 miles before I do that.

Question: Where do LIFTED KJs go to die? I need struts and would really love OME all around (franken) but cannot justify the $1400...

Trouble: huge CLANK when going over offset lumps/dips on passenger side. taking them with both square wheels i get no noise. Steering is tight and zero feel when it does clank

- bushings?

would a lift kit comes with or does daystar have a kit?

First we DO NOT have S T R U T S
we have coilover shocks , period
Daystar LOL you are funny aren't you, if you want junk, I know where a rusted out Chevy is
There are other ways to lift than Frankenlift using OME coils

LED headlights do not work ina KJ headlight, not made for LEDs since it just scatters the light everywhere
And yes we are ALL haters on the CAI since the stock box flows way better
Most of us have been around the last 15-16 years working/ lifting doing upgrades to thses KJs
so before you start using fowl language ( which we do not condone on here, and yes I saw the "F " you used ) you may just ask, read, listen before making such comments when first coming onto a site.
This isn't fakebook

Which plugs did you use? 3.7s only like copper plugs by NGK as an example

Thinking of converting your halogen headlamps to HID or LED? ITs A BIG NO NO

Good HID and LED headlamps are terrific; they can offer excellent safety performance and driver comfort, but only if they're designed and built from the start as HID or LED headlamps. Installing an "HID kit" or "LED bulbs" in a halogen headlamp isn't an upgrade, it's a large and serious safety downgrade.

So you've read about HID and LED headlamps—maybe you've driven a car equipped with them—and now you want to convert your car. A few mouse clicks on the web, and you've found dozens of outfits offering to sell you an "HID kit" or a set of "LED bulbs" that will fit right in place of your car's halogen bulbs. Sounds great, right? It's not. STOP! Put away that credit card.

This article primarily discusses the problems with "HID kits", but the concept and most of the issues apply equally to the "LED bulbs" now flooding the market. Like "HID kits", they are not a legitimate, safe, effective, or legal product. No matter whose name is on them or what the vendor claims, they are a fraudulent scam. They are not capable of producing the right amount of light in the right distribution pattern for the lamp's optics to work. The particular details of the incompatibility are different for LED vs. HID, but the principles and problems are the same overall. In one sentence: halogen headlamps must use halogen bulbs or they don't—can't—won't work effectively, safely, or legally.

An "HID kit" or "LED conversion" consists of HID ballasts and bulbs (or "LED bulbs") for retrofitting into a halogen headlamp. Kits for replacement of standard round or rectangular sealed-beam headlamps usually include a poor-quality replaceable-bulb headlight lens-reflector unit that's not safe or legal even when equipped with the intended (usually H4) halogen bulb. Often, these products are advertised using the name of a reputable lighting company ("Real Philips kit! Real Osram kit! Real Hella kit! Real Cree LEDs!", etc) to try to give the potential buyer the illusion of legitimacy. On rare occasion, some of the components in these kits did start out as legitimate HID headlight bulbs made by reputable companies, but they are modified (hacked) by the "HID kit" suppliers, and they aren't being put to their designed or intended use. Reputable companies like Philips, Osram, Hella, etc. never endorse this kind of hacked usage of their products. Nevertheless, it's easy to get "HID kits" from China bearing the (unauthorised, counterfeit) brands of major, reputable companies. See this page for just a few examples of the many packaging options offered by just one Chinese maker of "HID kits".

Halogen headlamps and HID headlamps require very different optics to produce a safe and effective—not to mention legal—beam pattern. How come? Because of the very different characteristics of the two kinds of light source.

A halogen bulb has a cylindrical light source: the glowing filament. The space immediately surrounding the cylinder of light is completely dark, and so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is along the edges of the cylinder of light. The ends of the filament cylinder fade from bright to dark. An HID bulb, on the other hand, has a crescent-shaped light source -- the arc. It's crescent-shaped because as it passes through the space between the two electrodes, its heat causes it to try to rise. The space immediately surrounding the crescent of light glows in layers...the closer to the crescent of light, the brighter the glow. The ends of the arc crescent are the brightest points, and immediately beyond these points is completely dark, so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is at the ends of the crescent of light.

FROM danielsternlighting

AZExploder said:

so, purchased a 2003 KJ LTD 4x4 - 123k on the odometer.. 250k on the title (i found out later) GHHAAAA

Seems she was a tow-behind since she has the rig bolted to her frame in the front. Maybe mileage was not the ****** hornet I am thinking..

New tires - cold AC - leather - clean - pretty - temporary replacement for my DD that is laid up for a new PCM

So - like all new-to-me cars, I promptly
- Changed all fluids - Trans-filter and pan oil, pumpkins, brake, power steering..

but, what about the OIL you say.. whelp..
- Drain Bolt was more like a round blob than a hex head
- Heat, HF bolt extractor (kinda square), Irwin Bolt extractor (kinda swirlie), heat, cold chisel, heat, grind, chisel..
- Finally ground off the bold head and most of the flange. Then came the Tophatter $9 extractor set - BOOM - dug in and took that biotch out. duno if it was the grinding, grinding heat, or the left hand drill.

New window regulator on both pass side, 6 new speakers, new 9" android head, new plugs, COPS, fuel filter, CAI (just do it - they are COOL and sound AWESOME - #### the haters), Borla **** - stock pipe, LED Head and fog lights, 24" LED Bar bolted to front license plate holes. Junk yard for a few things - bottle jack kit, arm rest, missing screws.

lOOks like i will be replacing the Drivers regulator now.. grrr.. thoughts of money pit coming to mind.

Have a puck lift in the box.. waiting to see if she makes 1000 miles before I do that.

Click to expand...

Looks like you got alot to do lol...people are gonna give you crap on the daystar lift and if you dont do things their way..I ran a daystar lift for 5,6 yrs ,they arent the best at all but it's fine for a DD and you can offroad it also, I beat the hell out my jeep and it always held up,stuff does wear down,but when doesnt it? If you can afford better then do that , OME is good there are a few companies that have OME but there isnt just one way to lift your jeep or set it up or just one place to get your parts from. Alot of good info on the forums ,but alot of noise also. Enjoy the jeep man

LOL

It is not about doing it " their way "
Spacer lifts have been proven time and time again to be the worst way to lift
Its all about doing a lift so it rides well, handles well and lasts a long time without wearing out other parts


This is turning into fakebook land

tommudd said:

LOL

It is not about doing it " their way "
Spacer lifts have been proven time and time again to be the worst way to lift
Its all about doing a lift so it rides well, handles well and lasts a long time without wearing out other parts


This is turning into fakebook land

Click to expand...

That's fine man, the same way you post your opinion on stuff I'll do the same..I know what's worked for me

Oh and your spelling Facebook wrong fyi

Totally agree with tommudd as regards fitting LED/HID on a KJ!

I know my Electronics and have been on many KJ sites since I purchased my 2002 Export CRD......I am always happy to help KJ owners out with any electrical problems but I stay silent when it comes to HID/LED conversion issues....life is too short for me to waste my time on these issues!

Best to fit good quality Bulbs and add Spotlights etc. if needed.

Doing10to20 said:

That's fine man, the same way you post your opinion on stuff I'll do the same..I know what's worked for me

Oh and your spelling Facebook wrong fyi

Click to expand...

It is FAKEBOOK, If it was truly FACEBOOK there would be a lot more truth on the KJ sites, instead it is filled with new owners who think because it worked on tuner cars it works on a 4X$.
I'm a MOD on one site and administrator on another on FAKEBOOK, so yes spelled right IMO

I apologize for the bomb.. just spent a few min on SailingAnarchy.. and had not recovered my filter.. war zone over there. wont happen again.

Fakebook fosho. but, i do get to keep tabs with the extended hillbilly family millions of miles away.. it iz what it iz.

Re: the LEDs, Thanks for the advice - they popped right in and the light is great - good cut off on low and high is now awesome - esp on long midnight drives to hunt/fish/hike the rim. Got LED H10 for the driving lights and the high beam / fog light setup is next. Light high and low for the little Goldfield Mtn trails and washes to take me where the big muleys live. All my rides have LEDs and oem housings. no aftermarket for the oddball menagerie i maintain.


Re: Daystar - they make bushing kits - got one for my Expedition after 300k and cleaned up a lot of slop in the ride. While in there poking in a lift of some sort for Bert, i would like to replace as many as possible. Seems they just have you by the parts with the bushings already installed - ie: swaybar link..

Re the clunk: lostjeep consensus from old posts is the sway bar link Got a pair on the way, as well as bushings for the sway bar mounts.

I have been scouring the webosphere for the Med duty ADB springs and shocks for the day Bert earns my trust that she will not barf all my effort$$ so far on a trail or highway. I figure when it is not 110 outside and she has 1000 trouble free miles, I can slap something in there for the winter hunt in the desert dry washes and trails.