How To: Change front driveshaft / change a driveshaft head

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CWBenjamin

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I get a thunking/clacking sound from the front end when I turn in 4wd. I have read that it is likely the front axel cv joint... The front of the front axel has the boot and it all looks nice and good to go, but the rear part of the front axel has no boot and appears to be exposed... Is it supposed to look the same as the front of the axel with a boot and all that?
Has anyone had that sound happen only in 4wd and only when turning, and been able to confirm that it comes from that location?
 

tommudd

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I get a thunking/clacking sound from the front end when I turn in 4wd. I have read that it is likely the front axel cv joint... The front of the front axel has the boot and it all looks nice and good to go, but the rear part of the front axel has no boot and appears to be exposed... Is it supposed to look the same as the front of the axel with a boot and all that?
Has anyone had that sound happen only in 4wd and only when turning, and been able to confirm that it comes from that location?
Fist thing you should never turn to sharp in 4x4
next if rear boot is missing on the front driveshaft, go to www.driveshaftparts.com and but a replacement/rebuild kit
 

CWBenjamin

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CWBenjamin

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I already got it all done! I test drove it and it doesn't make the sound anymore. Can definitely hear it making a deeper whining sound as the turning angle gets sharper in 4wd.. I guess the 4wd isn't supposed to handle sharp turns nor be used on pavement?
 

tommudd

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I already got it all done! I test drove it and it doesn't make the sound anymore. Can definitely hear it making a deeper whining sound as the turning angle gets sharper in 4wd.. I guess the 4wd isn't supposed to handle sharp turns nor be used on pavement?
No sharp turns and depending on which transfer case you have no on roads or other hard surfaces
 

daves06lrenegade

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I agree with the comment "

Great. While waiting for it, you can figure out how to get it out!
have fun. it's a little tricky but do-able." from uss2defiant...

Mine was not at all easy to get out... They show all you have to do is to angle the back of the drive shaft up and pull the front out... There is little room to create the angle that will allow the front of the shaft to be removed... The armor plates on the bottom of my Renegade added to my frustrations...
Dave
 

lfhoward

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^^^ Even trickier on a KK because an oxygen sensor has to be removed before you can have space to get the front driveshaft off. Those O2 sensors can be stuck pretty good!
 

Leeann

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If you didn't replace the heads and just wanna know what grease, it's moly.
 

mundra

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I am new here and I am reading this thread. I see some have had a vibration. Did you mark the drive shaft to make sure you put it back into the holes it came out of? On some vehicles they are balanced and should go back the same way they come out? I use a marker or white out to mark the location on the yoke and the pinion ******. It is just a thought.
 
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DadOSix

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I am new here and I am reading this thread. I see some have had a vibration. Did you mark the drive shaft to make sure you put it back into the holes it came out of? On some vehicles they are balanced and should go back the same way they come out? I use a marker or white out to mark the location on the yoke and the pinion ******. It is just a thought.
Never marked either of mine. Bought kits for each end and replaced both, although, the rear one is the one that fails most. It was a booger to get it down the first time, working on the ground. Now i run both front and rear - left side - up on ramps and i have room to make it happen.
 

TimV

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Changed this rear CV today for the 2nd time in less than a calendar year. Went in hoping to figure out what I did wrong the previous time knowing it didn't go well the first time. Here is something I learned:

In wondering which way the joint should go on the shaft, there seems no clear indication. However, the first time this was done, I fought with the dust cap. This time, I stopped, flipped the joint over, and eh voila, the dust cap goes on smoothly. Coincidence, possibly, thinking not though. Also, one side of the joint had a circular groove near the outer edge aligned with the bolt holes, this side faced the differential.

I make the points regarding the groove and the dust cap in reference to earlier posts.

Honestly, to anybody fighting this, other than coaxing the joints out of their perches (bfh and pry) this job is a simple as it sounds. If you're fighting it, stop and reevaluate what yer doin.

Good luck.

Tim
 

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