What did you do to your jeep today?

little green machine said:

I bleed the rear brakes today, and checked out a clunk in the passages door. Window is off the track and someone had a pc of 1x4 wood holding the window up. Oh and yesterday I changed to oil. Put in full synthetic. Sticker on the windshield said 22k ,Yicks ! theres 98k now. Oh and I took off the stock muffler and put on a flowmaster super 44. Sounds so much better then stock, I still need to put a tail pipe on

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Sounds good up till the flowdisaster, get ready for drone on the highway
ran one for a while, right at highway speed you couldn't even talk inside the cabin

sota said:

send a sample to blackstone labs. you'll potentially learn things.

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This is a good idea. I’ve used Blackstone before and their early warning saved a 4.0 engine in my XJ from a premature death. (Cracked head was leaking coolant into the oil.) ... Of course a year later someone totaled it in a hit & run, so it died a premature death anyway. Still miss that XJ sometimes...

little green machine said:

Oh and yesterday I changed to oil. Put in full synthetic. Sticker on the windshield said 22k ,Yicks ! theres 98k now.

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Changed to oil... What was in it before?

Lots of people don't pull the window stickers from the lube place. Hope that's the case here.

little green machine said:

Been looking for the complete list recommended to lift it(2006) 2.5-3 inches full suspension is the way I want to go. Not really wanting to change out gears yet, planning on 255 MTs of some Sort. Have budgeted $1000 for lift and anther $1000 for tires. Any and all help appreciated

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First post is what I went with. Don't know if it's all still available.

https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/dwm-seeks-ajp-for-wild-weekend-maybe-more.60553/

Picked up a KJ on Facebook a few weeks ago. Put Ko's on it yesterday.

Got my tag renewal notice in the mail today. I did not see the box requiring me to get the insipid e-check. So I jumped online and renewed for two years. The CEL had been out since I reset it about six weeks ago but I didn't want to take any chances. Ten minutes later I went out somewhere and half a mile down the road it came back on again. I don't know whether to be happy that I got it renewed or ticked that I may still have a problem. Mostly the former, but a clean "win" would have been nice.

Well, the color keyfob shells were a bust. It appears no one has them in stock. I bought a red remote w/the guts inside for $15 on Amazon, which arrived today, and after failing to program it with the key method, I found a post here from 2012 that told me to try to use the EVIC, which worked great. I'm gonna transfer the guts from the melted fob back to it's original shell and see if I can get a 3rd key cut and lock them both in my fire safe.

03 got oil change, lubed, air filter and tires rotated
05 got oil change, new spark plugs, air filter , front and rear diffs , transfer case fluids changed and tire rotation
oh and both washed
04 sadly sits in the spare garage waiting for me to have time for her

Changed oil/filter. Rotated tires. Cleaned interior and scraped off old 2019 WI and MN state park stickers.

Been getting random "Service 4WD" warnings every couple of weeks. Goes away once I restart the Heep. Yes, it's Heep lately instead of Jeep

Tried to get water to circulate . I’m getting flustered. Tried all I know without pulling the dash and or radiator.

I’m waiting for my packages to arrive with my 85w140 gear oil for front and rear diffs, gasket maker (permatex ultra grey that I saw recommended on here), and an oil filter. My truck will also be getting the transfer case fluid changed, as I already have the atf+4 here. Having never done the diffs before, is there anything I should look out for, or is pretty straight forward?

The only thing would be what rear diff do you have? Those with the trac-lok will need to also add friction modifier.

I use a felpro gasket for the rear diff cover.

randymorris said:

I’m waiting for my packages to arrive with my 85w140 gear oil for front and rear diffs, gasket maker (permatex ultra grey that I saw recommended on here), and an oil filter. My truck will also be getting the transfer case fluid changed, as I already have the atf+4 here. Having never done the diffs before, is there anything I should look out for, or is pretty straight forward?

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No trac-lok for me. Just got my build sheet downloaded on my phone a couple days ago to confirm. Is there any benefit using a felpro gasket over permatex for the rear diff? Or is it just personal preference?

any reason not to use just regular old orange RTV for the diff covers?

Thats what came off mine, and I didnt even think twice about it and just cleaned it up and put new on.

Mines never leaked, and I change it once a year (its about time actually).

mrlavalamp said:

any reason not to use just regular old orange RTV for the diff covers?

Thats what came off mine, and I didnt even think twice about it and just cleaned it up and put new on.

Mines never leaked, and I change it once a year (its about time actually).

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Having never done this before, I just went with what I saw recommended in a big enough can that I know I won't run out for this job. My hope is that this stuff works out well, and is relatively inexpensive, so hopefully a win-win.

Rule number 1 when changing Diffs, Transfer Case, Gearbox oils is to make sure first that you can get the Fill Plug out!

I used a good quality RTV for my rear Trac Loc Diff, Red in color..cannot remember the Make. Then put in a small bottle of the Mopar Friction Modifier in the fill up hole which I had fortunately removed.

Have recently replaced the Front Diff Oil and Transfer Case oil. Have ordered the correct Manual Gearbox oil and then will replace the above including new Engine oil filter and new Engine Oil.

absolutely make sure the fill plug for the front diff can be unbolted first like Bill said. Same goes for the TF case.
Regarding the gasket, personal preference i think.

Same gasket glued to my Crane diff cover for over 10 years now, drop it, wipe the oil off cover and diff and good to go, wish I could find another Crane cover for cheap LOL
Makes changing so quick and easy

Liberty&Justice4All said:

Tried to get water to circulate . I’m getting flustered. Tried all I know without pulling the dash and or radiator.

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Trying to get water to circulate where? Heater core?

profdlp said:

Trying to get water to circulate where? Heater core?

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Through the radiator, top hose gets hot bottom one doesn’t. Replaced thermostat and water pump already. Can drive 20 miles and the cap is cool.