My Liberty is lifter 2.5 in front and 2 in back, I bought new up control arms before the lift and just installed them into the lift, instead of getting lifted upper control arms, my question is will I be fine if I use stock a arms?
Control arm question.
- Thread starter Brawkzlit
- Start date
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First what lift ? If full spring lift and actual 2.5 inches in front then stock UCAs will be ok, although for a lifted KJ the JBAs would be a great upgrade they are not needed
U N L E S S ,..........................
you have a spacer style lift, then any spacer lift puts more wear on the upper ball joint so JBAs are needed
Rear hub ????
You mean like rear brake drums/disks ( depending on year )
If you have the Frankenlift you more than likely have closer to 3.5 inches of lift if its fairly new and need the JBA UCAs
They advertise 2.5 but when installed is way more than that and settle in about 3.5 inches
Pull the caliper and rotor and then you can knock out the studs and pull them in from the back, just did 3 of them last week on a customers KJ he messed up ( the studs )
Do you know where you bought yours? Cause a little picky where I buy stuff from.
NAPA
Hey so I tried to Get the studs out, but there doesn’t look like there’s enough room to get them out unless you cut them or something, but even then you wouldn’t be able to get new ones in, the rear axle studs
I haven't replaced them on one of these. but if there is no room to get the new ones in, remove the axle.
It isn't hard at all. Remove the diff cover and let oil drain into pan. Remove brakes on the side your working on. No need to remove the brake shoes (drum) or e-brake shoes(disc) I don't think. Remove the bolt holding the cross shaft in place. Remove the cross shaft. Push axle in towards the diff. It'll go in just a small amount. In the diff remove the "C" clip. Pull axle out easily and slowly so you don't damage the seal. Best to replace the axle seal on both sides while your at it though. Change your studs.
Install is reverse of removal. Just be sure to fill the diff with new oil after.
I had to replace the axle seals on mine and the hardest part was getting the rotor off because of the e-brake shoes were holding onto the rotor, or something in there. Everything was froze up. I just removed the shoes and hardware for them. Never put those or new back in. It never worked anyway.
It isn't hard at all. Remove the diff cover and let oil drain into pan. Remove brakes on the side your working on. No need to remove the brake shoes (drum) or e-brake shoes(disc) I don't think. Remove the bolt holding the cross shaft in place. Remove the cross shaft. Push axle in towards the diff. It'll go in just a small amount. In the diff remove the "C" clip. Pull axle out easily and slowly so you don't damage the seal. Best to replace the axle seal on both sides while your at it though. Change your studs.
Install is reverse of removal. Just be sure to fill the diff with new oil after.
I had to replace the axle seals on mine and the hardest part was getting the rotor off because of the e-brake shoes were holding onto the rotor, or something in there. Everything was froze up. I just removed the shoes and hardware for them. Never put those or new back in. It never worked anyway.
I looked at a video of this car pull his axle out, and undid some bolt and this c clamp, then just pulled it out
You can turn the axle around a bit and get them back in, NO NEED to pull the axle.
I have replaced rear ones on maybe 6 or 8 at least without removing the axle, just no need to
Good to know if I ever need to do one.
