Offset spare to the left

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duderz7

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I'm toying with an idea. I need the food folks here to either talk me out of it cuz it's a bad idea, or tell me some potential problems I may not have considered. I've considered two possible scenarios. 1st, simply moving the mount on the rear gate. Using the left studs for the right side of the bracket. I've not opened up the gate so I don't know what's in there. I think I read that the studs are into nutzerts but there must be more to it. 2nd, cutting the bracket and rewelding it, possibly with a support or 2 wrapping around the door and attaching to the hinges.

Things I've considered as problems is the tire hitting the tail light or bumper corner when opened, and the window hitting the tire when closing it. I currently have 245/75 on moabs, but plan to go with 265/70 when time to replace. So it would be in a tight spot.

The purpose is to make towing easier and attaching my hitch mounted bike rack. The rack weighs around 90lbs and it would be nice if I could see the hitch better when installing it.

I'm fully aware this is probably more trouble than it is worth, so it's up to you guys too save me from myself, or give me good ideas.

Thanks
 

tommudd

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Can't go too far as it will hit the tail light
we,ve done a lot of measurments regarding this when designing the rear bumper
just ope gate all the way, mark on tail gate where it would hit then close gate and you can see. If doing it I would run bracking clear over to the edge of the gate plus the regular mounts that you would need to beef up the left side
yes a lot of work to do it and make it come out so it would work
be easier just to make a longer hitch

Lifted I have no problem with a drop hitch hooking up any of my trailers and you're about the same height as the 03 is
 

duderz7

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Thanks for the response, The trouble I have with my trailer is it's almost the same height as the Jeep. It's a converted '80's GMC truck bed. I suppose I could look into lowering that, but it doesn't solve my bike rack issue. I'll look at it closer. like I said, just just toying with the idea.
 

Billwill

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Put the spare in the rear Cargo Area!

I have seen some posts of owners mounting the spare on the roof but pretty hard to get to and I would not be happy having this large weight so high up!

Try mount it on the Hood like the old Land Rovers did!:D
 

tommudd

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Put the spare in the rear Cargo Area!

I have seen some posts of owners mounting the spare on the roof but pretty hard to get to and I would not be happy having this large weight so high up!

Try mount it on the Hood like the old Land Rovers did!:D


Seen one guy try that up near where I used to live, young kid thought it was cool but hard as heck to see around it
Well must have been since he told me he had rear ended two cars and ran into a block wall after doing it !! LOL
 

duderz7

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It will certainly not find it's way onto the hood, those old rigs were super cool though.
 
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Billwill

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I owned one of those old Land Rovers in 1975...the large Station Wagon type. Had the spare wheel on the hood but was slightly recessed so not too bad to see over it. Also drove similar Land Rovers during my civilian army camps in the Bush.....if you did not keep a close watch on your Jeep these spare wheels would go "missing" as punctures were fairly common:eek:
 

sota

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I'm more curious as to what bike rack you have that weighs 90#!
I have a Yakima Four-Timer that weighs 66#, which BTW I absolutely LOVE, but is a bit of a bear to get on and off. I have to run a short extension to get it to clear the rear tire also, and I use hitch clamps and tensioned hitch pins to keep everything solid.
I'm also working on making a new extension this spring, that also drops the rack down a couple inches, so the tailgate can open fully when there are no bikes on the rack.
 

duderz7

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It's a Recon Rack. Carries six bikes. I'd rather not use an extension as it's already a lot of weight when loaded, I'd ratherer not hang it out any further. Love the rack, but it is a monster!
 

sota

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Hitching up to tow got a LOT easier after the lift went on :D
I like to keep the draw bar as short as possible, for stability.
I used to have to pull the spare tire and mount off to easily jack the tongue on and off the ball. Seriously thought about at one point removing the handle and just welding a couple nuts on so I can either use a ratchet or electric impact.
 

mrlavalamp

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just welding a couple nuts on so I can either use a ratchet or electric impact

now your cooking with gas.

Got rid of all my hand cranks years ago and thought most others did too.

between the tongue jack and the leveling jacks, it cut my setup time on tent trailer in half.

I have only left the drill at home once, and even worse brought it with a dead battery once too.
 

turblediesel

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I made an adapter for my neighbor to do the same for his travel trailer.

Hex on one end, hole in the other end with a cross hole for a dowel pin.

Easy machine shop job for folks that have no welding capability.
 

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