Finally replacing engine - couple of questions

I'm finally getting around to replacing my worn-out engine. I was able to find an engine out of an '08 KK with only 65k miles and great compression. I'll be picking it up on Monday.

I'm getting together everything I'll need, and have run into a couple of things I'm not sure about:


- Is there an EGR block off plate available for the 3.7? I can find them for other engines, but nothing for the 3.7.

- I believe I will have to tap a hole for one of the power steering pump bolts. Is there anything I have to be aware of when doing this? I don't want to risk damaging the block.

- To mount the engine to an engine stand, do you use the bolt holes where it mounts to the transmission bell housing?

- In order to spin the engine by hand (to be able to get to all the torque converter bolts), I assume the transmission has to be in neutral?


I'm sure I'll come up with more questions once I start working on it... Thanks all!

with an auto you should be able to spin it in park. manual must be in neutral.

Engine to stand I have always used the trans bell-housing bolts without issue. Try to find the bolt size/thread and measure out your stand parts, you will probably need to go buy longer bolts with the correct thread to bolt it up.

Cant tell you about the PS pump bolt.

From everything I have seen recently EGR block off is a waste of time on modern engines unless you are going MUCH further with performance mods. This wasn't always the case of course, which is why EGR has the reputation it has, but this might explain why you cant find block off kits.

Thanks! I want to block the EGR on the new engine because my '05 doesn't have an EGR system. So I figured simply blocking the EGR port on the new engine will be a lot simpler than installing the complete EGR system.

Well, the new engine is finally in. So far I've only driven back and forth a few yards on the driveway a couple of times (spent till 10.30pm working on it with a headlamp), but it runs . I think I have exhaust leaks from both manifold to downpipe connections, but I think that's just because those bolts are such a pain to get to, I probably didn't manage to get them tightened enough. I'll stop by the dealer in the morning to get some new hardware, see if that makes a difference.

I originally had scheduled 3 days to get it all done. I lost almost all of day 1 due to constant thunderstorms. Around noon on day 3 the new engine was ready to go in. I spent about two hours getting more and more frustrated because I couldn't get the engine and trans lined up properly. Then, somehow, I managed to get the bellhousing bolts all the way in. I attempted to turn the engine over by hand, to install the torque converter bolts... and the thing wouldn't turn at all. I knew it wasn't seized, because it was turning over just fine before I put it in. I ended up pulling the engine back out, and then I noticed why I had had such a hard time getting everything lined up, and why the engine wouldn't turn over. Apparently this new engine came out of a vehicle with a manual trans, so it had an actual pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. The torque converter of course didn't fit in that. I just completely forgot to check beforehand whether those parts were the same on both engines. Luckily the dealer was able to get the proper pilot sleeve within a day, and the pilot bearing came out with no issues.

I broke off one of the valve cover bolts on the new engine, due to a malfunctioning torque wrench. Luckily the other bolts are holding the cover tight enough so it's not leaking, so I can at least drive it to work until I have time to get that broken bolt out. I also broke a bunch of the stupid clips that hold all the wiring in place, so I'll have to go over it in the morning and zip-tie some things.

Surprisingly, I didn't have to tap a hole for the power steering pump. From what I've read here on the forum everyone else had to when putting in a newer engine out of a non-KJ vehicle.

As far as the EGR valve goes, I initially wanted to remove the whole valve. But the torx screws holding it to the head were so rusted, they immediately completely rounded out when I tried to remove them. So I just left the valve in place (I assume it's closed anyway, and it's not connected), and made a small block-off plate to cover the hole where the tube to the intake manifold would normally go, just in case.

While I had the engine out, I also replaced the trans cooler lines. The old ones were rusty and leaking. I figured it would be easy with the engine out... Nope. Those lines gave me more of a headache than the entire engine replacement. I'm still afraid that one of them will let loose when going 80 on the interstate or something.