transfer case / drive shaft noise?

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va jeep

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Hey everyone.

After my car (2002 Jeep LIberty KJ - Limited 4x4) had been sitting for about a year, i started to fix it up, so I could start driving it again.

When I did take it for a few test drives, I would get noise / vibrations directly under the shift column. I posted a question here, and most people said to check the front drive shaft. the rubber boots looked fine on both ends, no cracks or tears.

I eventually took the car to a mechanic for state inspection, which they failed the car stating that it needed a new transfer case, and quoted me about $1300 to fix.

So I was tinkering with the car today...

1. I wanted to check the transfer case fluid..hoping that it was just low on fluid, or needed a change.... I TRIED to remove the fill plug first (which, I thank this board for stating to do that first.)
I couldnt get the fill plug out, and stripped the plug. I was able to break the drain plug loose with a little effort ( Luckily I did not drain anything.)... But now I have a stripped Fill Plug....
Any ideas on how to get the fill plug out?... I read that someone tack welded a hex wrench...but I do not have a welding machine, nor have access to one.... any other ideas?

2. because I had no success with the T-case fluid check. I removed the Front drive shaft, and took it for a test drive.... It drove great... no noise or vibrations..

So now, im wondering if there was anything wrong with the transfer case, or if all the noise/vibration was a result of the front drive shaft.
So my questions are.
3. If my transfer case was trash, would I still feel vibration / noise after removing the front drive shaft.... or does the vibration start at the t-case, and feel alot worse at the front of the drive shaft?

4.if I leave the front drive shaft out... What happens if someone accidentally tries to put it in 4wd ?... will it just not work? or will it break something transfer case or transmission?

I am trying to decide if I need to replace my T-case, or work on re-building the drive shaft.

Any thoughts, or suggestions would be appreciated!
Thank you
 

Jo6pak

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Try a new CV on the driveshaft. It should be the cheapest and easiest thing to do first,
Here's a source
Jeep Front Driveshaft CV Joint Kit: Driveshaft Parts

And here is the "How-to"
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-change-front-driveshaft-change-driveshaft-head-47161/

As for getting the filler plug out. Welding a nut on it is probably the best way to go. Or if you can find something (large flat screwdriver, or larger hex wrench) to get enough bite. Or an impact wrench may also work.

Either way, I'd start with fluid change and driveshaft CV before I dropped too much on rebuilding the TC.

Good luck.
 

va jeep

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You can run without a front driveshaft and have no problems

Yes I know I can drive the car with no problems. But what would happen if someone turned the knob to put it in 4wd... obviously 4wd would not work. But would that break something if that was done.

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02blue

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You could always disconnect the shift linkage from the tcase while you are pulling the front shaft. Then no one cando any damage.
 

tommudd

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Yes I know I can drive the car with no problems. But what would happen if someone turned the knob to put it in 4wd... obviously 4wd would not work. But would that break something if that was done.

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No nothing bad would happen, but don't let anyone touch the handle ha ha
 

va jeep

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Try a new CV on the driveshaft. It should be the cheapest and easiest thing to do first,
Here's a source
Jeep Front Driveshaft CV Joint Kit: Driveshaft Parts

And here is the "How-to"
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-change-front-driveshaft-change-driveshaft-head-47161/


So theres joints on both ends of the shaft..Would I / should I change both the Front and the Back CV joints, or just the back once closest to the transfer case

Is there anway I can tell if the joints need to be replaced?

Thanks
 

02blue

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Is the recessed boot on the Tcase end intact? Sometimes they tear and it's tough to tell.

If it's all intact just move them around they should move smoothly but not too loose or tight. Check the range of motion.
 

va jeep

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Both boots were entact. No rips or tears. The rear tcase end showed minor dry rot... surface cracks.. but nothing all the way thru. So I will prob change that one.. since I have the shaft out.
Ill have to check the rotation and see if anything is tight. Maybe ill do the front joint to. Moneys a little tight, so I don't want to replace too many things right now if they are not broken and causing the vibrations.

Thanks for all the advice.

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Ric Jacques

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Hi guys. Any feedback on your noise dudeman? I have the same question just haven't gotten around to replacing my shot shaft yet. I haven't had my Libby long when I took it to have fluids replaced the dealer told me my shaft was shot - mainly because some muppet had installed it back to front......


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dude1116

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Hi guys. Any feedback on your noise dudeman? I have the same question just haven't gotten around to replacing my shot shaft yet. I haven't had my Libby long when I took it to have fluids replaced the dealer told me my shaft was shot - mainly because some muppet had installed it back to front......


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How does that even work??? I would start by replacing what's supposed to be the transfer case end. Check the splines while the joint is off. If the splines are shot, might need a new shaft.
 

Ric Jacques

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Yup. Just checked myself - it is indeed back to front. I got a new shaft anyways bcos the repair kits are kind of hard to get hold of. I'll change it tonight - hopefully will quieten the ride a bit lol


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William Terry

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I pulled my front drive shaft in my 06 3.7 sport. Dont know if it can POSSIBLY be linked, rear CV joint to the best-case was trashed. No bearings, rubber, grease, and it poked through the back of the joint case.pulled the front driveshaft last week, and the transmission is in limp mode (stuck in 2nd gear while in drive, 1st, and 2nd.) Drove perfect just before I pulled it. Next day drove fine, then that night, jumped into limp. Today, it started shifting again, only when it was turned off and put straight into drive. If I put it in neutral, and coast, and go back into drive, its stuck in 2nd. I'm hoping it's not the tcm, or valve solenoid. I really wonder if something possibly could happen, if you pull it.
 

mrlavalamp

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the rear CV on teh front shaft should not trigger limp mode, even if it is shot (though I dont know how it got as bad as you describe without making TONS of noise and vibrations).

need to get your codes pulled so you know why it is going into limp mode.

I would skip the keydance and go straight to an OBD2 reader with the TCM options (so not just basic reader). If you dont have one, most parts places will read them for you.

It is probably one of the usual things you see posted about here quite often, but codes will help narrow it down a lot.
 

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