No Cruise Control

Cruise Control light comes on, Cruise Control worked this morning, not it will not set or engage.

Ran the code check and I'm getting P0837 and P0838. This points to the 4wheel drive sensor. I guess I am correct in thinking this would cause the Cruise to fail to engage?

Any quick way of testing?

JBDive said:

Cruise Control light comes on, Cruise Control worked this morning, not it will not set or engage.

Ran the code check and I'm getting P0837 and P0838. This points to the 4wheel drive sensor. I guess I am correct in thinking this would cause the Cruise to fail to engage?

Any quick way of testing?

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speedo still working ?

tommudd said:

speedo still working ?

Click to expand...

Everything else is fine, checked the break lights as well.

My didn’t work and it was the cable end broke


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JBDive said:

Everything else is fine, checked the break lights as well.

Click to expand...

Could still be the brake switch.
The brake switch assembly has three switches inside it,,,one for brake light...one for ABS and one for cruise control.

Or could be the cruise switches on the steering boss or the clockspring.

The brake switch assembly cannot be remove and re-fitted...once it is removed a brand new assembly must be fitted.

Download the 2002 KJ Service Manual here....gives some theory of operations and the wiring diagrams are in section 8W.
Use the wiring diagrams to trace if the brake switches are working before removing the brake assembly and trace if the steering boss controls and the clockspring are working although the clockspring can develop hairline cracks in it so it works and stops working at will.

I had to replace my clockspring on my 2002 Export CRD at about 100 kmiles due to Airbag errors.

KJ manuals: Index of /manuals/Jeep/KJ

Billwill said:

Could still be the brake switch.
The brake switch assembly has three switches inside it,,,one for brake light...one for ABS and one for cruise control.

Or could be the cruise switches on the steering boss or the clockspring.

The brake switch assembly cannot be remove and re-fitted...once it is removed a brand new assembly must be fitted.

Download the 2002 KJ Service Manual here....gives some theory of operations and the wiring diagrams are in section 8W.
Use the wiring diagrams to trace if the brake switches are working before removing the brake assembly and trace if the steering boss controls and the clockspring are working although the clockspring can develop hairline cracks in it so it works and stops working at will.

I had to replace my clockspring on my 2002 Export CRD at about 100 kmiles due to Airbag errors.

KJ manuals: Index of /manuals/Jeep/KJ

Click to expand...

As it was working fine that AM and not in the evening I don't think it was the steering column switches, just went out without any issues prior to that.

So nobody thinks the error codes being thrown by the transfer case selector sensor would be the cause? I have that on order, actually the part itself is in stock but they dealer said Mopar has issued a "note" on the part to always replace the seal and they didn't have that o-ring in stock.

I had a disconnected transfer cable this AM and dug under and around the transfer case and found a vacuum line above the transfer case that just ends, doesn't go anywhere. It has a body molding clip to attach somewhere on the body but I don't see any place for it to connect and no loose vacuum line to connect to. It is very small in diameter and very clean so it just came loose here recently. Could this be the source and if so where the heck does it attach?

Would dealer be able to trace the cruise problem down easier - testing equipment or such or are they just shooting blindly as well? Don't trust the local dealer to much.

So the "vacuum hose" is probably the xfer case breather hose. I will have to check that end again but that would make sense as it has a body molding type of clip for attaching to a body panel. I am better they disconnected it when they changed my engine out last month. Any ideas where it is supposed to be routed to?

JBDive said:

So the "vacuum hose" is probably the xfer case breather hose. I will have to check that end again but that would make sense as it has a body molding type of clip for attaching to a body panel. I am better they disconnected it when they changed my engine out last month. Any ideas where it is supposed to be routed to?

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It routs up beside the trans dipstick tube and the clip connects to a hole in the bracket that holds the dip stick tube to the head.

Gyro

Still would suggest you measure out the three switches within the brake switch assembly.

The cruise control switch inside this brake switch assembly will work until it decides to fail...no matter what time of day.

Download the Wiring Diagrams from the link I supplied and measure the cruise control switch in the brake switch assembly for continuity.

If you look at Wiring Diagram page 8WA-33-2 you will see that a Yellow/Red wire goes through brake switch cruise control switch and comes out on a Dark Blue/Red wire to pass through to the various vacuum solenoids for the cruise control. Read up in the Theory of Ops how the Cruise Control works......this in section 8P.

Could be a vacuum hose leaking at the solenoids.

The wiring goes through Connector Number C100 pins 19 and 21 which may be dirty...the wiring diagrams have a section showing where the connectors are located. Also check the Ground Point shown...likewise the wiring diagrams will show where the ground points are located.

ok so I bought an OBD code reader, works well, but codes P0837 and P0838 do not show up in the listed fault codes and it says there are no codes to clear however those two codes do still show up doing the ignition switch 3x trick. So these codes are not stored in the ECM? Would these codes keep it from locking into a cruise speed?

Again, cruise comes on and off just fine, just refuses to set. The codes above tell something that it can't decide what 4 wheel drive mode I'm in so I can see those codes keeping the cruise from engaging. How can I clear them?

ok so was sitting here watching Miami Vice (movie) and reading forum post and found one that said check the throttle body cables so during a commercial I grabbed a flashlight and sure enough the cruise cable was popped off.

All credit to Dave and adamjam2 on this thread:
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/cruise-control-problem-31883/index2.html

It popped off again today. The cable has a ton of slack in it and I don't see any way it is going to stay in place long term. Ideas?

JBDive said:

It popped off again today. The cable has a ton of slack in it and I don't see any way it is going to stay in place long term. Ideas?

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Can you follow the cable and see if there is some sort of adjustment location? Mine is really tough to remove from the TB. I wonder if that end is damaged.

The cruse control module uses a vacuum line to move the diaphragm... On my 2006 Liberty I found the plastic hose that fed this module was worn through allowing a vacuum leak...I repaired the line and the cruse was once again functional...
Dave

ltd02 said:

Can you follow the cable and see if there is some sort of adjustment location? Mine is really tough to remove from the TB. I wonder if that end is damaged.

Click to expand...

Came off again today, again there is no tension on the cable at all which doesn't seem right but I have nothing to compare it with. Will try to dig back behind everything this weekend to see if there isn't an adjusting nut of some type.

Little things like this kind of tick me off with my engine replacement tech. This cable is loose, I have a slight leak in the exhaust around the manifold and he left the transfer case or ****** breather hose laying across the top of the transfer case.

So I went back outside to take a better look at it and the damn plastic retention part has been slightly cracked around the lip, most likely by the tech tearing out my engine. How the heck I'm going to get that replaced is going to be interesting and no way they will own up to breaking it.

May try just rebuilding the lip they broke off with some high temp epoxy.

I usually repair plastic..not Nylon...parts by melting the cracked pieces together with a warm soldering iron.

Most epoxy adhesives are not really good for plastic parts.

Billwill said:

I usually repair plastic..not Nylon...parts by melting the cracked pieces together with a warm soldering iron.

Most epoxy adhesives are not really good for plastic parts.

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I'm reluctant to modify the remaining piece since it does still connect and if it stops connecting at all then the whole dang assembly and controller has to be replaced. Not sure what the part is made of, looks to be the same as the radiator and I used some high temp stuff on the radiator and it adhered perfectly and held.

I'll try to get a picture tomorrow and upload it.

If one of the ABS sensors is bad, you wont' be able to engage the cruise control. I have noticed this in my Libby

JBDive said:

May try just rebuilding the lip they broke off with some high temp epoxy.

Click to expand...

Sounds very technical. I used piece of thin metal wire and just wrapped the cable to remaining plastic part with it. Worked nicely, but mine wasn't totally broken, just enough to make cable pop out every time the cruise is turned off.