New here wanted to say hello and ask a ball joint question

Hello!,

I have a 2007 KJ Limited 4x4 that I need to replace the lower ball joints on for both front wheels. Can i just say that this has been a nightmare job so far. As it stands no matter how much penetrating oil and elbow grease I give the 3 E14 unit bearing bolts they will not come out. I have been told that it is possible to change the lower ball joint without removing these bolts but so far I am stumped. I went to the store and got an e14 torx socket but no matter what I tried was not able to get those bolts off the unit bearing they constantly just slip off . I am scared to continue trying to remove them as I do not want them to be stripped.



Please see attached image I cant get the part indicated by the red arrow off of the hub to then pull the knuckle off without taking out the e14 unit bearing screws. And I cant pull the whole assembly out because the part indicated in blue stops the axle (green) from coming out.

I guess my question is if its possible to do the ball joints without removing those bolts how do you do it. Im sort of desperate at this point but not desperate enough to pay this bozo at the shop $600 bucks to do it (YET).

Those bolts were tight, I took them off using a 24” breaker bar.

Here's what you do, luckily you don't need to touch those E14 bolts!
1. Remove CV axle nut (35mm, have someone stand on the brake pedal for you while you loosen it) Pound it in, it might be a bit frozen, you want it out of the hub, you'll push it all the way out after step 5.
2. Remove UBJ nut/get it out of knuckle (looks like you did this)
3. Remove Tierod nut (looks like you did this)
4. Remove LBJ nut
5. Place jack under LBJ stud. You can either pound the lower control arm or keep jacking the LBJ up, or both

Then the knuckle will be off, and you can remove the LBJ from that or take just the knuckle to a shop - I took mine in for $20, well worth it.

Wow ok thats much easier. Is this ok to do on the 4x4. Pound the axle out like that?

nogoldformarfa said:

Wow ok thats much easier. Is this ok to do on the 4x4. Pound the axle out like that?

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Yes. Probably won't take as much of a pounding as you'd think. One or two sharp blows with a hammer should do. Start gentle and increase in intensity.

Don't hit the end of the axle directly with a steel hammer unless you are planning on replacing said axle.Great way to mess the threads up which will force a axle replacement.

Use a soft faced hammer or punch(air hammer with punch works very well).They make special pullers to force the axle out of the bearing also,they attach to 3 wheel studs.

If you leave the nut on a bit, that also gives a bigger face to it. Maybe I should've have said pound...more like tap.

Yes, like TJ said don't hit the threads so use a drift/punch or leave the nut on a bit like HJ said. That said I've hit the bare ends plenty of times and never had a thread problem but like I said start light and increase.

TJKJ2002 Is exactly right. Leaving the nut flush with the end of axle is just additional insurance. PB Blaster is a definite plus as well, my guess is, in the St. Louis area there's likely to be some corrosion.

Good to see youre on the forums too. I replied to your post on reddit.com/Jeepliberty

Thanks everyone for the advice and help. Yeag i posted pretty much evrywhere and you guys were by far the moat reaponsive.

I do have a couple of questions though.

A. How do i reinstall the axle once it is removed?

B. Judging by my picture how do i get the axle back in enough to then reattach the upper ball joint and commence said hammering

You'll just slide the axle back through the back hub. The other end stays in the diff the whole time.

You don't need to reconnect the UBJ to get the axle out. Have you gotten the nut off yet?

Yes but is off I'm just concerned because the axle is already coming out a little . Just want to make sure I'm still ok with the seals myke was talking about

The axle slides in/out of the bearing(in the knuckle),the other side has a "c" clip holding it into the diff which takes some force to pull out.

No seals to worry about on the knuckle side.

nogoldformarfa said:

Yes but is off I'm just concerned because the axle is already coming out a little . Just want to make sure I'm still ok with the seals myke was talking about

Click to expand...

tjkj2002 said:

The axle slides in/out of the bearing(in the knuckle),the other side has a "c" clip holding it into the diff which takes some force to pull out.

No seals to worry about on the knuckle side.

Click to expand...

Looks like he already got the CV/intermediate shaft pulled apart...good to know that they're not rusted together at least!

Well just for closure here if anybody is curious I ended up paying a mechanic friend $180 to do both joints and actually replace the brake pads and rotors for me.

I tried hammering out the axle but couldn't get it so with sore arms and a totally destroyed axle nut I decided to go ahead and throw int he towel and pay the man to do it.

New ball joints make all the difference ride is much smoother now. Couldn't find a new axle nut anywhere local but found one in a junkyard. As a little bonus I got 2 complete leather seats from the same junkyard that just need a little tlc. All told the new axle nut and both seats cost me $25