Front Rotor Question......

I have a '07 Liberty Sport.

Recently I've been told by a "questionable" source I need new front brake pads and rotors.

The Libby isn't showing any signs or making a noises when I apply the brakes.

I'm not questioning the need for new pads, but rotors?

There is no shaking, etc. when braking.

Thoughts?

Are new rotors in order?

Thanks!:help:

I would get a second opinion from a reputable source lol. It could be that the rotors are worn down by a certain percentage that they are recommending replacement. Same with the brake pads. I would get a brake rotor micrometer and measure the rotors and compare to what OE specifies. If worn beyond limits replace them and same goes for the pads. Very easy to replace these components yourself.

I replace rotors at the same time as pads, usually.

Brakes are brakes. Just run your finger on the rotor and see if you feel a lip, I have only had my KJ for 1 week but again brakes are brakes. You can see the pad from the caliper most of the time so you can see how much pad you have left. Maybe you just need pads and either resurface the rotors or don't need replacement at all.

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K9JEEP said:

Brakes are brakes. Just run your finger on the rotor and see if you feel a lip, I have only had my KJ for 1 week but again brakes are brakes. You can see the pad from the caliper most of the time so you can see how much pad you have left. Maybe you just need pads and either resurface the rotors or don't need replacement at all.

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The rotors on any newer vehicle can't be turned at all or not very much. Rotors are cheap.
To do a brake job right, new pads, rotors , all hardware and a complete flush of the system.

IMO, shops are chasing the $$$ instead of giving honest feedback. It's part & parcel of 'free' tire rotations and loss-leader oil changes.

Best thing is to learn to check your own brakes. Replace pads when they run low. Buy a set of new ones in advance so you have a baseline. I usually go for the cheap pads so the rotors last longer. Replace rotors when the surfaces are badly grooved, pitted, etc. or there's shaking/pulsing when braking (i.e. warped).

I've been doing brakes on my own vehicles for 20+ years. Its not rocket science. It's even easier nowadays because rotors/drums don't have bearings seated in them.

Yes many shops think there is a "sucker" born every minute.
And they are prepared to apply their heavy duty shop vacuums, to your wallet !
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When it comes to brakes I don't want to go cheap, I want the best.
My jeep originally came with organic front pads and offered severe brake fade/glazing.
I've tried the Adaptive 1 pads up front and just did not get the stopping power my heavy Jeep needed, until I went semi-metallic in the Mopar flavor.
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The Mopar rotors are very good quality up front as well/ never warped, run like a champ!:gr_grin:

Yes brakes are one thing you want the best or near best. Not something you want to use the cheapest parts on.
I was sent to school back in 73 for Brakes, Suspension, Alignment etc. by the place I worked at. Was going to be my way to pay for College. LOL
So thats where my answers come from when someone asks what to do suspension and brake wise.

I upgraded my brakes on my GTI with the bigger brother 345mm Golf R calipers and rotors. I replaced the lines with stainless steel and new Hawk HPS pads, the hardest part is the brake lines, makes a mess but rotors and pads are cake. Most of these guys will have better suggestions on which brands to use but I agree not to skimp out on your components, it's a crucial safety part of your vehicle. I myself would go with OEM as they were properly designed for your car, unless you were stressing the system more and needed different compounds to withstand that. I went with aftermarket on the VW because I was doing a lot of Canyon driving.

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I don't skimp on brakes......It's what stops your 4,200Lb pig. I would get good pads and replace the rotors. Disk brakes are easy to do anyway.


My opinion.


Dave

When it comes to braking, also consider we often underestimate the actual weight of our skidded Jeeps, gear & passengers!
Be prepared to gear the pig down if needed!
Nice truck/KJ weigh station eh!
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I figure with myself & one extra passenger, normal basket/interior gear, fuel etc...
My jeep would weigh in about 5200Lbs !SHOCKED.gif

LibertyTC said:

When it comes to braking, also consider we often underestimate the actual weight of our skidded Jeeps, gear & passengers!
Be prepared to gear the pig down if needed!
Nice truck/KJ weigh station eh!
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You must be registered for see images attach

I figure with myself & one extra passenger, normal basket/interior gear, fuel etc...
My jeep would weigh in about 5200Lbs !SHOCKED.gif

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So true.......................................

Mine tips the scales over 6200lbs before I get into and I actually broke a caliper(mounting eye) doing a panic stop.


Oh to the OP I do this for a living and I will never,and I mean never recommend "pad slapping"(not turning or replacing rotors) or even turning rotors on any vehicle.Replacing rotors is the only way to do a proper brake job and if you tow or have a vibration issue(braking) the question of turning rotors get's thrown out the door as your only choice is replacement if I'm looking at it.When ever they force me to turn rotors it always ends up the same,the customer returns a few weeks later with the same issues which new rotors solves but this time we pay for the rotors.