Front bearing shot. Just replaced last year

I'm pretty sure that at least one of my front bearings is shot again after having them replaced in October of last year. They did both sides.

Is this project diy-able?

Does this have anything to do with me changing my wheels out in a hurry and leaving my center caps off?

They should always be replaced in axle pairs, but can be tested for runout to see if they're bad or not. Or you can jack up the front wheels, grab ahold of them at the 12 and 6 oclock positions and try to rock them inward and outward and see if there's any play. Although this method doesn't always indicate a bearing that's bad..
Definitely diy-able. But I'd suggest having a torque wrench handy, although it can be done without if you're one of the people that uses the German method (goodandtight/gutenteit)..
Do you know what brand bearings they installed? I'd go with Timken replacements if you have the dough, but I installed 1aauto ones after getting some not-so-great replacements through Detroit axle.
I wouldn't expect leaving your center caps off would kill the bearings, usually just rust out the axle nuts, but I could be wrong on that.

Pretty simple, just
If 4wd, remove the axle nuts with the vehicle on the ground and wheels on.
Remove your wheels,
Remove your brake calipers and pads. 2 14mm bolts
Remove your brake caliper mounting bracket 2 21mm bolts
Remove the brake rotors
Then open your hood and disconnect the abs sensors from the vehicle side. You should be able to find their location by tracing the abs wire through the wheel well into the engine compartment. They will be held onto studs with a push down retainer. Simply pull them up off the stud. Then to undo the connectors, go slowly and be careful. They have a red tab on them which must be pulled backward. Then there is a tab on them to push in, and pull them apart.
Once the abs sensors are disconnected from the vehicle side of the wiring harness, go back down to the wheelwell.
You'll have to pop the grommet out towards you, and undo the clips which retain the abs sensor onto the wheel well liners and brake hose. Quite simple once you figure out the clips.
Then with the abs sensor wire hanging off, you can take off the wheel hubs.
They have 3 E14 external torx bolts which hold them on.
You can use the correct size of a normal 3/8 socket to get them off, but I'd strongly suggest picking up an external torx set so you know you can reuse the bolts. Walmart even has a set of OEM tools external torx for a very reasonable price.
When you take out the 3 E14 bolts the hub will likely be seized in place from corrosion, so I leave the top bolt halfway in and hit the hub away from the knuckle with a hammer.
Then installation is reverse.

A few tips would be,
-disconnect the abs wires in the engine bay before taking off the wheels so that it's easier to reach and access
-have a wire brush and brake cleaner handy to clean out the mounting surface that your new hub will install into, as they will be corroded in place.
-use bearing grease around the mounting surface of the new hubs before installing them into the knuckle.
-clean off the brake rotors with brake cleaner and keep them fingerprint free
-good time to add brake grease to the anti rattle clips on the caliper bracket
-pick up new axle nuts for installing the axles back into the new hubs. Many reuse the old ones, but if done, alot of times they will loosen themselves as they actually are meant to slightly deform when tightened, to ensure they stay on.


Also, I'd check before starting the job, that you have a socket big enough to fit the axle nuts..

thanks for the info.

the hubs were replaced with these

MEVOTECH H513178

More Information for MEVOTECH H513178

I know nothing about that brand, should I be suspicious? I had just purchased the jeep and did no research when I got them done. They are in the "economy'' section. great. and the best part. the shop I got them from marked them up 100% from what I payed.

Your lucky they lasted a year.That brand is well known for bad quality.

Timken or SKF bearings,they are worth the extra $$$$

Awesome thank you. Will do both. Hopefully I wont cook anything else driving around for a week or so.......

I dont even have ABS so that sound pretty easy really

Very easy.. hour to two for both sides. just remember to double check that you've tightened everything down when you're done. Well preferably while youre doing it, but always better to check it all at the end as well.
Should be fine for a week, I ran bad front bearings for a year lol but mostly because I'm 2wd and didn't really affect much except some added vibes to my braking

Might want to start spraying down the bolts and seam where the bearing meets the knuckle with PB blaster. And get a good E14 socket!

get timken. lifetime warranty.
also 'borrow' a few tools from your LAPS.

1. hub puller
2. hub nut socket I think mine was a 35mm but it could be a 36mm. get both
3. breaker bar if you dont have one.

you'll need an E14 socket for the three E-bolts at the back.

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That job was easier than I expected it to be when I did mine. The major consumer of time was the abs line. The rest of it was cake.

I haven't had to replace one on the KJ yet, but in general, they can be a bear to get out if there's any corrosion. Like HoosierJeep said, some penetrating oil a few times in the days leading up to the repair would be a good idea.

Yeah, I had to do one on my LR3 and it was a different type of corrosion- aluminum knuckle with a steel bearing...no amount of PB blaster helped that one. Had to chisel it free around the edges.

Once you get the cv axle nut off and the cv axle shaft loose the rest is easy.

i can get timken and skf. I could get the timken in a week. I could get the skf tomorrow for $50 more. I dont really care about the money. should i wait for the timken or just go with skf?

Either is great quality. If you need it now, I'd get the SKF. If you can wait a week, I'd save the money and get Timkins. Either will work great, just depends on if having it tomorrow is better.

I'd wait on the Timkens personally, simply for the warranty. But if SKF provides one as well and is available now, ultimately it's your choice. As HJ stated it all depends if you want it tomorrow or can wait a week and save the money.

If you get it now, will you have it installed within a week? Or would you have to wait anyways. Because if you have to wait before installing, I'd just wait on the Timkens to come in.

What's the SKF warranty?

HoosierJeeper said:

What's the SKF warranty?

Click to expand...

My SKF front bearings have a lifetime warranty,granted they are not unit bearings and are made in Japan.I have Timken rears but they are still made in the USA still,there fronts are not,made in china for my application.


Just a warning Timken has been out-sourcing bearings from cheaper companies for a few years now to compete with the cheap crap out there.Make sure you know the manufacture country before buying (USA,Japan,or Germany is what you want).

Has SKF committed that sin yet?

HoosierJeeper said:

Has SKF committed that sin yet?

Click to expand...

Not that I have seen and why they are generally so much more expensive then even Timkens.

I've seen SKF's made in USA,Japan,or Germany and not anywhere else but granted I don't install alot of them at work due to customers not wanting to pay the extra $$$.