Need help for full flush transmission

Hello,

I want to make a full flush of my automatic gearbox. So I need to disconnect the oil return hose (between the radiator and the gearbox).

Can you tell me the location of this hose and if it is more practical to disconnect it on the radiator side or gearbox side?

Thank you for your help.

I personally would not bother with a flush. Drop the pan, Replace the ****** filter, Clean or adjust any applicable parts, Replace the pan gasket, Bolt it back on and fill her up with new fluid!

If it is a high mile situation, a pan drop will be a much safer option.
The Jeep dealers here have a re-circulating machine/service option, that I have done only to my low mile KJ.

LibertyTC said:

If it is a high mile situation, a pan drop will be a much safer option.
The Jeep dealers here have a re-circulating machine/service option, that I have done only to my low mile KJ.

Click to expand...

This and do you use your Jeep for towing or wheeling? If yes a pan drop is a better option too.

Sorry but I may have expressed myself incorrectly (I'm French...).

My goal is to replace all oil transmission. I intend to proceed like this:
- disassemble the transmission pan
- change all filter (2 filter because I have a 45RFE)
- Reinstall the transmission pan
- Add the new oil to have a good level in transmission
- Disconnect the return hose
- start engine and change all lever position (P -> R -> N -> D -> N ....) to expel the fluid.
- In same time, add the new oil

My question is :
Which hose to return disconnect?

The higher line on the transmission goes to the cooler.
The lower line is the return line from the cooler.

not sure how you'd force atf back into the ****** without specialized equipment and knowledge of the flowrate/psi of the atf going back to the ****** without damaging it.

That's why I did my fluid exchange via dipstick.

OK thanks, I'll watch this.

When you talk about specific tool, can you give me an example?

Dorman 265-818 Transmission Pan
get one of these...makes transmission fluid changes easier

pivert said:

OK thanks, I'll watch this.

When you talk about specific tool, can you give me an example?

Click to expand...

]http://henrichinc.com/shop/lincoln-3637-25-gallon-used-fluid-evacuator.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiA08rBBRDUn4qproqwzYMBE iQAqpzns3IYV3mCAw93dYES0q3U1VEnxviibQk6f_4Z7RGv-vEaAgjO8P8HAQ[/URL]

Just do a pan drop, remove what you can , refill drive for a while and change again.

I often times leave my pans off overnight and it seems I end up adding much more fluid back than I read is typical. Ive put 8 quarts back in my 04 KJ by just doing a pan drop before.

tommudd said:

Just do a pan drop, remove what you can , refill drive for a while and change again.

Click to expand...

I want to use ATF+4, but currently there is another oil (MOTUL) that was used by the previous owner.

That's why I want to change all the oil (full flush).

pivert said:

I want to use ATF+4, but currently there is another oil (MOTUL) that was used by the previous owner.

That's why I want to change all the oil (full flush).

Click to expand...

MOTUL is a brand, not a specific fluid type... did they use the Multi-ATF?

Either way, this is a good reason to want to exchange it all. But your options at home are limited... either pan drop, refill with ATF+4, then drive for a while and do it again, as Tom said, or go to a garage that has the proper fluid exchanger and pay to have it done all at once.

Yes MOTUL Multi-ATF

Some people disconnect the return hose from the radiator to evacuate the oil with engine running. And in the same time, it's neccessary to add new oil by the jauge.

I wouldn't want to mix those two. I think get a full reverse flush done at a dealer since the wrong stuff is in it now.

Can you tell me how to check the oil level of the 45RFE?

1. Start the car and let the engine in idle
2. pass all the ratios of the 45RFE (P -> R -> N -> D -> 2 -> 1 -> 2 -> D -> N)
3. In Neutral, check the level on the cold indicator of the gauge
4. When the engine is hot without driving on the road, check the level on the hot indicator on the gauge

That's right ?

pivert said:

Can you tell me how to check the oil level of the 45RFE?

1. Start the car and let the engine in idle
2. pass all the ratios of the 45RFE (P -> R -> N -> D -> 2 -> 1 -> 2 -> D -> N)
3. In Neutral, check the level on the cold indicator of the gauge
4. When the engine is hot without driving on the road, check the level on the hot indicator on the gauge

That's right ?

Click to expand...

That ought to do, yes.

Dorman 265-818 Is for the 45? I might grab that with the filters. Anything else recommend to do in there while the pan is off?

Even though I like the idea of a pan drop and filter change on higher mileage vehicles especially if you aren't sure a flush was done under 100k miles, is there any real evidence that if you flush and have issues, your transmission was going to fail at some point anyway in the near future? After all, all the flush did was to remove some gunk that was keeping it going anyway. A co worker of mine had a high mileage flush done on a 96 Chevy and had it filled with synthetic fluid and I think it failed within a month if not sooner. My 96 Chevy has over 275k miles, I bought it with over 90k on it and I have changed the fluid and filter twice

A lot of people will do maybe 3 pan drops spaced with a long drive between each to change most of the fluid.

Next time I change the fluid I’d like to put a drain plug in.