Question on getting dtt!

I'm an idiot and decided to get lsd after i got regeared. Now i pay double the labor

Anyway, if i was to get dtt only on 1 differential, should i get it on front or rear?

912a585 on front
Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differentials 912A585 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

912A553 on rear
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dtl-912a553

And to anyone who has it/ has had it how much difference?

I would recommend getting it for the rear to start off. The rear diff are always driving wheels, so it will still be effective in 2wd. I installed mine right before a snow storm that dumped 10 inches of snow. When the roads were covered, I didn't feel a difference until I tried to slide the rear end. Normally, I could get it to slide by 2k rpms, but now it can take half throttle or more. When it is slushy, it really does help, since 4wd cant be used. I had one tire on wet pavement and the other on snow and it was surprisingly boring. The jeep just went straight without any wheelspin and I drove it normally. I don't have any traction control, so it has been worth it.

so this a different type of LSD but better than the OEM LSD?

uss2defiant said:

so this a different type of LSD but better than the OEM LSD?

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MUCH better. No clutches.

uss2defiant said:

so this a different type of LSD but better than the OEM LSD?

Click to expand...

CzarKJ said:

MUCH better. No clutches.

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Yep, it's not quite a full locker but it's as close as you can get. Like Czar said it is much better than a LSD since it uses a group of elliptical gears that engage when one wheel is slipping.

Much more expensive than a lunchbox locker, not quite as much as a selectable locker like an ARB, but they require zero input from the driver.

On my wish list... :waytogo:

Bob

I don't have one in my libby (yet, hopefully in the distant future) but I do have one in my Javelin, it is the cats meow. No noise, no wearable parts to worry about, leaves really awesome 11's on the road, and holds up to drag racing with slicks.

It's the same style diff they stuffed in my "Neon". And yes, it makes a massive difference. Go with the rear first, then the front.

Just get an air locker!

air lockers would be nice to have the selectablity, but consider this, more parts to break with a air pump, lines, electrical.. and what happens if you break an air line off road? I'm sure it would unlock, possibly putting you in a sticky situation, but I'm just thinking worse case scenario.

Thx for all the input guys!

I rarely go offroad, and when i say rarely i mean never. I'm just afraid of being stuck in snow, pile of zombies and etc.

I would put the DTT in the front because you already have the rear LSD. Two traction devices are better than one. :gr_grin:

u2slow said:

I would put the DTT in the front because you already have the rear LSD. Two traction devices are better than one. :gr_grin:

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But I would bet the rear LSD clutches are shot - which makes it not much better than an open diff (some would argue even when new the LSD wasn't much better than an open diff...)

My 2 cents... I'd put the DTT in the rear.

Bob

Wait...rear already comes with lsd? How do i tell?
I dont think i got traction control.

mikejeepstarternoob said:

Wait...rear already comes with lsd? How do i tell?
I dont think i got traction control.

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Sorry, I misread thinking you had the factory trac-lok already.

Once you have the cover off, the trac-lok has squared off shoulders to make room for the clutch packs behind the side gears... like the one to the right in this pic:
openvs_traclokcarriers.jpg Photo by Holder350 | Photobucket

Our KJ has one. I'm not a total fan, but its better than an open diff. Bang for buck, I would put a lunchbox locker in the rear instead. DTT for the front, because it supposedly has the least side effects (as far as front traction aids go.)

See, I thought the opposite was better.
DTT in the rear, because we're RWD 90%+ of the time. Mechanical locker of some kind up front for when you're really in the deep stuff. Bad part is a fully locked front means you can't steer (well) when it's locked up.

I know for me it's DTT's front and rear when I get the parts together. It's not the ultimate (lockers front and rear) but then i'm not crawling Moab in a blizzard... just my driveway with a plow.

sota said:

See, I thought the opposite was better.
DTT in the rear, because we're RWD 90%+ of the time. Mechanical locker of some kind up front for when you're really in the deep stuff. Bad part is a fully locked front means you can't steer (well) when it's locked up.

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Really depends how you use your rig. Auto vs. manual trans, and driving style plays a part. Also consider what transfer case you have (command or select-trac.)

The no-slip in the front of the KJ is 'interesting' in 4wd navigating winter highways. I've had either a Detroit Locker (rear) or Lockright (front & rear) in my trucks for the last 10 years. Two friends have taken DTT/Torsen devices out of their rear axles (Ram 2500 & Bronco II) because it didn't behave as they wanted; and upgraded to a Grizzly or No-slip.

The moral of the story.... to each their own!