Changing a Right Rear Stud

So When I put my Winters on I snapped off a right rear stud and I was quoted something like 90 bucks to replace at a dealer. Is it fairly easy to replace and I could just do ti myself when I change back to summers?

I changed a couple of mine when somebody tried stealing my wheels. They are fairly easy to replace. You have to pull the disc or drum off and pound out the old ones and just stick a new one threw the hole. Then take the same size nut as the lug nut and carefully tighten it untill the new stud seats all the way. Put everything back together, torque your wheels and drive on it for a bit then check the stud again to make sure it didnt come unseated. This is how I have always replaced wheel studs, but somebody correct me if there is a easier way or if I am wrong. Oh and when I bought studs they were a few dollars from Napa.

You should be able to do this at home yourself.

Go get yourself a new stud with the matching nut( open type not a capnut type).

When you change your winters out, take a hammer and a good drift (if you have one) and hammer the broken stud out. Drive it straight back right out of hole it's pressed into.

Now here is where an air impact or an electric impact will come into play. Either of these will pull the stud in quickly.

Put the new stud in the empty hole as far as you can by hand. Then take your new nut, thread it on to the new stud BUT REVERSE THE NUT.

YOU WANT THE CONICAL SIDE POINTING TOWARDS YOU WHEN THREADING IT ON.


You want the flat side of the nut to contact the flat face of the axel to pull the stud thru and seat it properly. This is where the power tool comes into play. You can do it by hand, but its easier with some Power!!

Oh and make sure the new stud is the same pitch and thread as the rest of the originals. You don't want to have diffrent sockets for 1 wheel.

So you are going to need:

1 NEW STUD
1 NEW WHEEL NUT ( OPEN BOTH ENDS)
1 NEW ORIGINAL WHEEL NUT

Do I have too go to a dealer to get one or can I buy one online with a new nut?

Try an auto parts store first. They may have some.

I wouldnt be to excited to beat on my hub with a hammer. Bearings do not like stuff like that. I would probably try to find a press at an auto parts store. You can rent stuff like this at an auto parts store.

That is why you use a brass drift........no marky marky

Bears.....???? You mean bearings right???

So basically I need a hammer and a punch to knock the old stud out. I need to remove the Caliper and Rotor before punching it out. I insert the new stud and use a open ended lug nut to pull it into place. Then install everything back on and torque it all down and done pretty much.

kj924 said:

That is why you use a brass drift........no marky marky

Bears.....???? You mean bearings right???

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Haha, those dang bears!


Fixed it.

Yeah Vtolds thats about it. Just remember to get another capped lugnut for the aluminum wheels if ya got them. Pretty straight forward.

There's no substitute for brute force and a 5 lb maul......

How the hell do i remove the rear brake drum to get the studs off/on the back of the hub??

TruLiberty said:

How the hell do i remove the rear brake drum to get the studs off/on the back of the hub??

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I don't have a lot of experience with drums but you will likely have to pry the top cover off, then remove all of the brake hardware and the backing plate. I THINK that might give you enough room but I'm not too sure. It's a start though.

TruLiberty said:

How the hell do i remove the rear brake drum to get the studs off/on the back of the hub??

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You did release the parking brake? :ROFLJest:
If it isn't moving at all, soak penetrating oil between the axle hub and drum, let it sit for a bit. Then whack the outer corner of the drum good and hard with a hammer, working around the whole drum circumference. No, you won't break it, but it should break free.
If the drum is rocking on the hub, but just won't come off, then there is a raised edge on the back side from the brake surface being worn down, and the shoes are getting hung up on the lip. You either need to crank in the adjuster (star wheel) by reaching through the backing plate with a screw driver, or get a bigger pry bar.

Man I hate drum brakes. Ya should have broke a front stud off!!!!!

Could just get a new hub :rofl:

dude1116 said:

I don't have a lot of experience with drums but you will likely have to pry the top cover off, then remove all of the brake hardware and the backing plate. I THINK that might give you enough room but I'm not too sure. It's a start though.

Click to expand...

Not accurate.

CactusJacked said:

You did release the parking brake? :ROFLJest:
If it isn't moving at all, soak penetrating oil between the axle hub and drum, let it sit for a bit. Then whack the outer corner of the drum good and hard with a hammer, working around the whole drum circumference. No, you won't break it, but it should break free.
If the drum is rocking on the hub, but just won't come off, then there is a raised edge on the back side from the brake surface being worn down, and the shoes are getting hung up on the lip. You either need to crank in the adjuster (star wheel) by reaching through the backing plate with a screw driver, or get a bigger pry bar.

Click to expand...

Accurate.

Never used a punch in 40+ years. You ain't gonna hurt a front hub, much less a rear axle whopping it with a hammer.

Bob

Bob