Transmission problems

HoosierJeeper · Sep 6, 2015

Won't shift beyond 3rd, then when in 3rd and you go to slow down, it restricts you to only 2nd. Get the PO700 and then these:
P1684 Battery Disconnected
P0218 High Temp Operation Activated
P1776 Solenoid Switch Valve Stuck in Low Reverse

Any ideas? Thanks.

TwoBobsKJ · Sep 6, 2015

HoosierJeeper said:
Won't shift beyond 3rd, then when in 3rd and you go to slow down, it restricts you to only 2nd. Get the PO700 and then these:
P1684 Battery Disconnected
P0218 High Temp Operation Activated
P1776 Solenoid Switch Valve Stuck in Low Reverse

Any ideas? Thanks.

HJ, were the codes pulled via an OBDII scanner? Or at a ****** shop?

I've found the best way to diagnose the ****** is via a scanner that a good ****** plugs into the port while driving. It pulls data on the operating values of the ****** while it's acting up.

You may have a couple of solenoids misbehaving - if the P1776 code also affects forward gears :shrug:

Bob

HoosierJeeper · Sep 6, 2015

Got them pulled at the shop I take the LR to..the guy has a snap on scanner. It happened when I pulling a trailer (probably no more than 2000 lbs) and it also happens after driving for awhile. Shut down for a bit and drive it around town, it works perfectly. Shifts through every gear nicely.

TwoBobsKJ · Sep 6, 2015

HoosierJeeper said:
Got them pulled at the shop I take the LR to..the guy has a snap on scanner. It happened when I pulling a trailer (probably no more than 2000 lbs) and it also happens after driving for awhile. Shut down for a bit and drive it around town, it works perfectly. Shifts through every gear nicely.

Hmmm. Maybe relates to the overheat code? I saw you cleaned out the trans cooler - wonder if it's still getting hot...?

Seems funny that it would cause problems at temp but not cold - mine showed its bad manners when cold but not warm. :shrug:

Bob

LibertyTC · Sep 7, 2015

I would run a can of Sea-foam Trans Tune for 500 miles, which will clean solenoids/valve body safely....and then..
Change the filter/fluids, have ****** re-programmed for new ATF+ 4 fluid.

HoosierJeeper · Sep 7, 2015

TwoBobsKJ said:
Hmmm. Maybe relates to the overheat code? I saw you cleaned out the trans cooler - wonder if it's still getting hot...?

Seems funny that it would cause problems at temp but not cold - mine showed its bad manners when cold but not warm. :shrug:

Bob

I've never gotten the ****** temp warning light...I'm not sure if it's still getting too hot. :shrug:

LibertyTC said:
I would run a can of Sea-foam Trans Tune for 500 miles, which will clean solenoids/valve body safely....and then..
Change the filter/fluids, have ****** re-programmed for new ATF+ 4 fluid.

Would I just dump that into the dipstick tube? Also, it's been about 45k since my last transmission flush (done at a dealer). Should I be worried about the seafoam stuff dislodging any dirt and doing more damage?

I've been thinking the issue seems more electronic in nature because disconnecting the battery fixes it for a short while and sometimes it self soothes. I thought if there were a true mechanical issue it would always do it.
But I think I might try the sea foam stuff and I'm due for a ****** flush anyway.

ftaa · Sep 7, 2015

HJ when i was running tward 50k on the fluid it started shifting funny i think its something to do with the viscosity ... mine would be good cold ... soon as it heated up it would shift stupid .. went in figuring i needed a TC and fluid change ... turned out just a fluuid change it was good ... hope this helps

renegade 04 · Sep 7, 2015

You should think about installing a transmission temperature gauge if you are worried about overheating, just a FYI the idiot light comes on at 240F and you actually overheat at 200F.

HoosierJeeper · Sep 7, 2015

ftaa said:
HJ when i was running tward 50k on the fluid it started shifting funny i think its something to do with the viscosity ... mine would be good cold ... soon as it heated up it would shift stupid .. went in figuring i needed a TC and fluid change ... turned out just a fluuid change it was good ... hope this helps

That's good to hear...where you getting any codes?

renegade 04 said:
You should think about installing a transmission temperature gauge if you are worried about overheating, just a FYI the idiot light comes on at 240F and you actually overheat at 200F.

Good to know...thanks.

LibertyTC · Sep 7, 2015

HoosierJeeper said:
I've never gotten the ****** temp warning light...I'm not sure if it's still getting too hot. :shrug:

Would I just dump that into the dipstick tube? Also, it's been about 45k since my last transmission flush (done at a dealer). Should I be worried about the seafoam stuff dislodging any dirt and doing more damage?

I've been thinking the issue seems more electronic in nature because disconnecting the battery fixes it for a short while and sometimes it self soothes. I thought if there were a true mechanical issue it would always do it.
But I think I might try the sea foam stuff and I'm due for a ****** flush anyway.

HJ you can add a half to full can to the dipstick tube and believe me it will clean the solenoids and valve body safely. I have seen the results inside before and after on GM accumulators. I use it on the KJ as well before doing a pan drop. Your dirt ends up in the pan & filter, and I would not be worried about it unless your clutches are fried, at which point the KJ will be slipping bad.
Electronic solenoids can be read and tested to on/off using shop scanners.
Have the Jeep transmission codes scanned by dealer and trans flush serviced if you like.
At 45k Miles, that fluid has worked hard and is at the time where it should be re-newed!

arty52:

dude1116 · Sep 8, 2015

Mine does the same when it seemingly gets hot. It ***** at shifting when it does that. Solenoid might be on its way out but I'm going to run it til it doesn't move.

By the way your trans went into limp mode. It just took a reduced speed to drop to second (limp mode gear).

Hockeygoon · Sep 8, 2015

LibertyTC said:
HJ you can add a half to full can to the dipstick tube and believe me it will clean the solenoids and valve body safely. I have seen the results inside before and after on GM accumulators. I use it on the KJ as well before doing a pan drop. Your dirt ends up in the pan & filter, and I would not be worried about it unless your clutches are fried, at which point the KJ will be slipping bad.
Electronic solenoids can be read and tested to on/off using shop scanners.
Have the Jeep transmission codes scanned by dealer and trans flush serviced if you like.
At 45k Miles, that fluid has worked hard and is at the time where it should be re-newed! arty52:

I wouldn't drive it long with the Seafoam in it. Get it up to operating temps and couple times then do a flush with a shop that isn't afraid to let the cleaner cycle through for a while. These things don't have a real filter, just a screen like 90% of the transmissions on the road. If the screen is plugged your transmission is toast anyway.

ftaa · Sep 8, 2015

HoosierJeeper said:
That's good to hear...where you getting any codes?

Good to know...thanks.

I got the 700 code i also got incorrect gear ratio code... at the very leaste you are at that time for a change .. and it is the cheapest of all options. while they have the pan dropped they can tell you more clearly.

HoosierJeeper · Sep 8, 2015

I'm almost wondering if there's a blockage in the ****** cooler lines of some sort. Anyone had that happen before?

HoosierJeeper · Sep 14, 2015

The dealer says there is nothing wrong with it and no codes came up. (Did have them cleared a while back but it has gone into limp mode since). They said the fluid is a bit burnt/dirty so getting a flush done on Friday...why would the dealer not be able to find any evidence of the problem? Or could the whole thing just be a weird fluke?

TwoBobsKJ · Sep 14, 2015

HoosierJeeper said:
The dealer says there is nothing wrong with it and no codes came up. (Did have them cleared a while back but it has gone into limp mode since). They said the fluid is a bit burnt/dirty so getting a flush done on Friday...why would the dealer not be able to find any evidence of the problem? Or could the whole thing just be a weird fluke?

Kinda suspicious to me... :shrug:

Burnt fluid could be the culprit - I always figure that if it happened once it's a fluke. Twice it's a problem that won't go away.

Hopefully the fresh fluid takes care of it, JH.

Bob

HoosierJeeper · Sep 15, 2015

I'm thinking the fluid might have water in it too. Hopefully a flush fixes it. I guess one hypothesis could be that the fluid is worn and contaminated from off roading. It went into limp mode towing a small trailer on the highway in 90 degree heat so maybe that's just beyond what the fluid could take given its condition? Around town or just normal levels of strain it's perfect.

M38 Bob · Sep 15, 2015

HoosierJeeper said:
I'm thinking the fluid might have water in it too. Hopefully a flush fixes it.

Does it look like a strawberry milkshake?

Bob

HoosierJeeper · Sep 15, 2015

It's actually darker than a strawberry milkshake (I'm used to chocolate milkshakes)...not home right now will check it later today. Last looked at it last weekend and I noticed that when I wiped it clean, the paper towel had black marks where I wiped it. It's predominately pink/red but has a slightly gray tone to it.

Transmission problems

Gold Supporter/Admin

Full Access Member

Gold Supporter/Admin

Full Access Member

Well-Known Member

Gold Supporter/Admin

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Gold Supporter/Admin

Well-Known Member

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Gold Supporter/Admin

Gold Supporter/Admin

Full Access Member

Gold Supporter/Admin

Full Access Member

Gold Supporter/Admin

Similar threads