tjkj2002
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Change the oil on a regular schedule using quality oil/filter and the #1 thing is keep the cooling system in 100% condition and never let the engine overheat.
What is the best oil/filter to use?
- Thread starter RenegadeKJ
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CactusJacked
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All the more reason to not even use a synthetic blend. The dino oil part of that Castrol wasn't doing the engine any favors, despite the abuse.
RenegadeKJ
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I'm super **** about regular oil changes, and using the best quality stuff (saves money in the long run from dealing with huge repairs) As far as cooling goes, ever use water wetter in these?
Hockeygoon
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What engine is that? Looks a lot like the inside of the 3.7 I was sold as a running replacement with 145-150 psi compression on each sylinder as checked by their mechanics. Turned out that the rocker arms were also broke off on one cylinder - I wonder how that cylinder was tested. Pulled hte valve cover off the find it packed with sludge.
Personally I think keeping the oil clean is a lot more important than the kind of oil - as long as the oil is correct weight. I can't buy into the extended oil changes. The 3.7 and 4.7 are notorious sludge machines and leaving any oil (synthetic or conventional) in for long durations is asking for trouble with them.
Other engines with variable valve timing and hydraulic timing chain tensioners also need clean oil to survive. Chevy has learned that with the many versions of their 3.6 engine - after many failures of each "upgrade" the final solution is to reprogram the computer to tell the owner to change the oil more often.
Ford had the same issue with the variable timing in the later 4.6 and 5.4 - you can pay for new phasers every 80K (or some times a lot less miles) or you can change the oil more often and avoid the issue. Maybe their new 5.0 has this issue solved.
No HOAT and if you are not 100% sure that is whats in there flush it out and put HOAT in there. But its the same as oil everyone will have an opinion. Whatever you do dont mix HOAT with "universal" coolant.
That sludge pic reminds me of when I pulled the 351 Windsor out of my old 77 Thunderbird many moons ago. I think on the new huntcamp KJ I'm just gonna go with cheap purolator filters and some kind of dino oil and change it every 3000. It's gonna be used for a lot of short trips and crawling around the trails.
Thats the idea keep it clean and she will treat you good. I wouldnt wait for 3000 miles if its getting dirty before that. Your use of the vehicle as described is stressful on an engine. Trails take a toll just like short trips take a toll.
TJ's operating plan of timed oil changes, bi-yearly is an excellent idea. Works well with his low mileage driving, would work equally well with operators going 4,000+ miles in the same time period.
Also, TJ, after 20 years in the shop, you ain't a kid anymore. :icon_smile: Be proud of your educational accomplishments and the "technician" title. I'll have to admit I'm more of a BFH greasemonkey. Just that so many "papered" individuals haven't a drop of common sense, which will carry you far in any mechanical situation.
Bob
Also, TJ, after 20 years in the shop, you ain't a kid anymore. :icon_smile: Be proud of your educational accomplishments and the "technician" title. I'll have to admit I'm more of a BFH greasemonkey. Just that so many "papered" individuals haven't a drop of common sense, which will carry you far in any mechanical situation.
Bob
CactusJacked
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Isn't "mechanic" and "technician" the same thing? At least, that is how the nomenclature is used nowadays. I don't know anybody who uses the title mechanic on their business card any more.
Why, I know a guy who owns a sanitation (garbage pick up) company. He used to be a "garbage man", but now he's a "sanitation engineer".
Why, I know a guy who owns a sanitation (garbage pick up) company. He used to be a "garbage man", but now he's a "sanitation engineer".
Jack,
Technician; Neat, well groomed appearance. May change garments up to three times daily if soiled, dusty. Abhors the thought of a red shop towel in back pant pocket. Integrity above reproach, just ask him.
Mechanic; Indulges in tobacco while at work. Fresh uniform every morning, showers most days. Shop towel a must for both wiping parts and sweat. Usually waits till ride home for first beer. Integrity above reproach, just ask him, or customers. All of whom are on a first name basis.
Grease Monkey; Alternates between a chew and a smoke. Fresh uniform most weeks, shower optional (per week). Two shop towels one in each back pocket. One for wiping parts and sweat, the other for tobacco juice (often get swapped couple times per day, though). Beer for breakfast, beer for mid morning break, whiskey for lunch/beer dessert, beer at afternoon break, rest of fifth on the way home. Integrity above reproach, just ask him, his parole officer, or Jesus.
Humor boys, humor.
Technician; Neat, well groomed appearance. May change garments up to three times daily if soiled, dusty. Abhors the thought of a red shop towel in back pant pocket. Integrity above reproach, just ask him.
Mechanic; Indulges in tobacco while at work. Fresh uniform every morning, showers most days. Shop towel a must for both wiping parts and sweat. Usually waits till ride home for first beer. Integrity above reproach, just ask him, or customers. All of whom are on a first name basis.
Grease Monkey; Alternates between a chew and a smoke. Fresh uniform most weeks, shower optional (per week). Two shop towels one in each back pocket. One for wiping parts and sweat, the other for tobacco juice (often get swapped couple times per day, though). Beer for breakfast, beer for mid morning break, whiskey for lunch/beer dessert, beer at afternoon break, rest of fifth on the way home. Integrity above reproach, just ask him, his parole officer, or Jesus.
Humor boys, humor.
tjkj2002
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Mechanic.................Isn't "mechanic" and "technician" the same thing? At least, that is how the nomenclature is used nowadays. I don't know anybody who uses the title mechanic on their business card any more.
Why, I know a guy who owns a sanitation (garbage pick up) company. He used to be a "garbage man", but now he's a "sanitation engineer".
Glorified parts changer,little experience and most likely will not know how vehicle systems work(newer vehicles),30 years ago with no computers you had mechanics,simple vehicles so only simple minds needed.
Technician................
A mechanic that has the skill and understanding of complex vehicle systems to properly diagnose issues on newer vehicles.One example is if you don't truly know what fuel trims are(and mean) and how to read them then your not a technician(without using google).
CactusJacked
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Having to change the oil when it starts to get dirty looking is a myth, but it was more true back when oils weren't formulated like they are today. What you're seeing is contaminants being held in suspension, and it doesn't hurt the capabilities of the oil unless it's ultra contaminated. Synthetic oils do a better job of holding onto contaminants, and cheapo dino oils do a worse job at holding on, and instead drops it off inside the engine as sludge build up. If your oil is turning dirty, it's doing what it's supposed to be doing.
Hockeygoon
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Agreed - but dirty is still dirty. If your oil is black at 3000 miles I damn sure wouldn't wait until 8000 miles to change it. The oil should still be translucent and slightly brown when changed. When you wipe the oil on your finger you should still be able to see your skin through the oil. If its like black paint and totally opaque you need to shorten your oil change interval. Send it off to Blackstone Labs if you want but they'll tell you the same thing.
I hear people "claim" that they run synthetic and the oil is almost as clean at 3000 miles as it was going in to which I call BS. The only oil I've seen do that were the old nondetergent oils my grandfather used in his vehicles. He'd finally change them after they had sat a month or more and all the contaminents had settled out of the oil into the bottom of the oil pan or valve body. Then he'd ***** about how he shouldn't have changed it since oil still looked clean...... I helped rebuild a tractor he had for years - we used a putty knife to clean the inside of the oil pan and the head.
If you have an engine that can run 3000 miles and still have practically clean oil its most likely running on natural gas.
Birdman330
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When I made the switch on the Jeep and run Full Synth, I pulled the dipstick at 2500 and it was still pretty clean, just a little turning at that point. When I did the change at 5k I could have probably ran it another 1K in miles to a full 6. Though I just prefer to do the changes at 5K. It also depends on how hard you run your engine as well. Like me I don't beat the daylights out of the Jeep. I don't really run the tach past 3k if I can help it. Occasionally I will run it up a little higher but other than that no.
tjkj2002
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I run mine like I stole it,then again that 3.7 has to work hard to move 6000lbs+ at 6200'+ elevation even with 5.13's.I've had the new engine for 7 months now and only have about 1200 miles on it and have changed to oil 3 times already.
Birdman, you should see what we do to inboard boat engines! 3K will just barely get ya up on plane. 4K is a good cruising rpm, and 4,500 to 4,800 if you get in a hurry. Keep in mind that's with a properly sized propeller that's pulling the guts out of it every INCH of water you travel. Ain't no "coast downhill" in a boat.
Bob
Bob
ChiefRudy
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Mobile 1 full synth and pure one filter or Mobile Filter.
Used to changed my oil twice a year but I'm lucky if I put on 4K a year and it seem a waste of money to change oil every 2k when it's good to like 15K. so I've been doing it once a year.
Used to changed my oil twice a year but I'm lucky if I put on 4K a year and it seem a waste of money to change oil every 2k when it's good to like 15K. so I've been doing it once a year.
Birdman330
Full Access Member
I used to drive my Focus like I stole it, but then again I set it up like that. I had the suspension set so tight, I would tell people the body would do a full roll over before the tires would leave the pavement. I had a set of VERY TIGHT S Curves that I could do 80 mph and I did do it on them, and it never gave an inch in grip. I would open the engine wide between shifts to let it scream hay day. Just to stretch the legs, it would get run up to triple digits near shut off just because it could even go faster without the shut off if it could. That car gave and earned respect.
The Jeep, its all about comfort and that's how its set up.
It's people like you that cause confusion and unrest in the world, don't you know? :happy175:
Like others have mentioned, my 2007 calls for it. It even is marked on the oil fill cap. How am I so sure of this? I opened the drain, got the old oil flowing, then popped the hood to remove the cap. Then I saw the "5W-20" stamp. Then I borrowed a car and took the five quarts of 5W-30 I had bought back to the store and exchanged it for the recommended grade. The whole way I was telling myself that what with the 90F+ temps we have been having I could probably run the 5W-30 and be fine, but decided that if anything ever went wrong with the engine I would hearken back to July of 2015 and blame myself... :emotions34:
At least I know that sucker was well-drained by the time I got back. :icon_twisted:
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