Alignment

ruzty · Nov 17, 2014

Hi,

I have alignment done to my 2006 KJ Ltd.
And it was said that there was a problem with the rear toe.
I do not even know what it means. But they could not fix it and left it as it was.
So final readings for primary angles are all good except for Rear Toe
Left 0.40 acc. to specs min/max should be in between -0.10 and 0.35
Right 0.50 acc. to specs min/max should be in between -0.10 and 0.35
Total 0.90 acc. to specs min/max should be in between -0.15 and 0.65
They said something is bent, but they do not specify what exactly.
Does any one know how to interpret these angles and where to look to fix them. Thanks.

Porkchop · Nov 18, 2014

I would start by checking the up control arm ball joint and bushings and the lower control arm bushings.

Cardhu · Nov 18, 2014

do you have an alignment sheet you can scan / take a picture of and post.

stock lifted etc?

tjkj2002 · Nov 18, 2014

ruzty said:
Hi,

I have alignment done to my 2006 KJ Ltd.
And it was said that there was a problem with the rear toe.
I do not even know what it means. But they could not fix it and left it as it was.
So final readings for primary angles are all good except for Rear Toe
Left 0.40 acc. to specs min/max should be in between -0.10 and 0.35
Right 0.50 acc. to specs min/max should be in between -0.10 and 0.35
Total 0.90 acc. to specs min/max should be in between -0.15 and 0.65
They said something is bent, but they do not specify what exactly.
Does any one know how to interpret these angles and where to look to fix them. Thanks.

If you wrote down the correct #'s then I take it you are toe out on both rear wheels which means the actual diff itself is bent(most likely the axle tubes or ends).

Time for a new rear differential.

ruzty · Nov 18, 2014

Cardhu said:
do you have an alignment sheet you can scan / take a picture of and post.

stock lifted etc?

all suspension is stock

here it is:

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ruzty · Nov 18, 2014

tjkj2002 said:
... the actual diff itself is bent(most likely the axle tubes or ends).

Time for a new rear differential.

Oh Nooooo. Kill Me Please!!!!!

Is it worth while trying used parts (from junk yards and so)?

MarkJ · Nov 18, 2014

I would definitely junk yard a rear diff. But before you do, know any good body shops? They can straighten unibodys to get 4 wheel alignment back in spec. I don't know if they can straighten your rear diff but I would give them the chance - old one is trash anyway? They can chain the diff down and move the diff with hydraulics. Kind of a cut and try method. Worth a shot and they can recheck after each adjustment to see if making any headway. (Can you tell I grew up in a farm shop?)

tjkj2002 · Nov 18, 2014

MarkJ said:
I would definitely junk yard a rear diff. But before you do, know any good body shops? They can straighten unibodys to get 4 wheel alignment back in spec. I don't know if they can straighten your rear diff but I would give them the chance - old one is trash anyway? They can chain the diff down and move the diff with hydraulics. Kind of a cut and try method. Worth a shot and they can recheck after each adjustment to see if making any headway. (Can you tell I grew up in a farm shop?)

You need a special machine(AKA-jig),know-how,and the correct tools to check alignment(of axle tubes) which no body shop has.Some specialty offroad shops do this but are few and far between and usually cheaper to get a new diff.Pretty labor intensive as the whole diff has to be gutted and the tubes torched to red hot to bend(then you just end up with a weaker tube),this can not be done with the axle complete and still under the vehicle.

CactusJacked · Nov 19, 2014

Before trashing the whole rearend, put the rear wheels in the air (blocked safely) and run the Jeep in gear. See if there is any wobble at either of the wheels. There is a possibility that an axle shaft or wheel could be bent at the hub, and if the alignment was checked while the wheel was wobbled out towards the front, it would be misread as toe-out. It's worth a look.

MarkJ · Nov 19, 2014

CactusJacked said:
Before trashing the whole rearend, put the rear wheels in the air (blocked safely) and run the Jeep in gear. See if there is any wobble at either of the wheels. There is a possibility that an axle shaft or wheel could be bent at the hub, and if the alignment was checked while the wheel was wobbled out towards the front, it would be misread as toe-out. It's worth a look.

Great idea!

Cardhu · Nov 19, 2014

Its time for a new rear diff, or junk yard as indicated by toe being off in the same direction on both sides. 06 - 07 will fit as you need the one without the tone ring on the carrier and with all the other ESP stuff.

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TRFguy · Nov 20, 2014

I'm fighting this same issue with my Jeep. I know however what happened to mine, it went into a ditch hard. Typically, rear toe issues means bent axle tube.

ruzty · Dec 4, 2014

While I was discussing it with you here there was hit-n-run. My Jeep is in bobyshop now for repair. It was rear ended on driver's side rear corner. Fortunately they will not write it off and agreed to fix it.

Can any one show me how this toe looks like on a Jeep, please? After I get it back from the shop I will start working on the rear axl. I am mechanically minded and educated but never changed an axl. How bad is this work?

MarkJ · Dec 4, 2014

Well, at least your gas probably won't blow back on you for at least a while.

ol-flattop · Dec 4, 2014

MarkJ said:
Well, at least your gas probably won't blow back on you for at least a while.

:happy175:
Way to find the bright spot Mark.

MarkJ · Dec 5, 2014

Someone on one of the forums said that an accident "unstuck" the stock tank valve and made it work again... My guess is this little bender was perfectly targeted.

ruzty · Dec 5, 2014

Yeah right about gas burps))) Like old school TV set punch-fixing)))

ol-flattop · Dec 5, 2014

MarkJ said:
Someone on one of the forums said that an accident "unstuck" the stock tank valve and made it work again... My guess is this little bender was perfectly targeted.

I came across that a couple of times in researching the problem. Never saw a follow up, but I suspect that whenever this has happened, the rollover valve became stuck again before too long.

The whole thing just reinforces my theory that corn is useless.

ruzty · Dec 21, 2014

I looked thru kijiji and I found some KJs for parts.
I wonder if there is a compatability chart for rear axls?
My Liberty is 2006 ltd, 3.7L
Do I need a spcific rear axl/diff or any year will fit?
When I drop my bent rear axl/diff how can I make sure the axl tubes are bent?

HoosierJeeper · Dec 21, 2014

You would need at least an 06, 06 or 07, because of the ESP.

Alignment

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