Fluid changes...

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eemain

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Things to do this week...

Front Diff (Done 6-22-13)

Rear Diff (Done 6-23-13)

Trans fluid and filter (Dealer 7-1-13)

Coolant flush and refill (Dealer 7-1-13)

Oil change to Mobil 1 EP with Mobil 1 filter (Done 6-17-13)

T-Case (Done 6-21-13)

Plugs (Done 6-24-13)

(Brake and steering fluid coming later... )

Is there anything else I am missing? Something that maybe should be done along with the above???

Appreciate the help so far folks :cheers:
 
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TwoBobsKJ

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T-Case fluid... thanks! Steering and brake fluid will get done soon enough!

Remember, ATF+4 is the ONLY trans fluid that will work in these transmissions. Don't use just a standard ATF. Also, ONLY use HOAT-type coolant in the cooling system. "Universal" fluids aren't universal to these engines; you can find HOAT coolant in the Zerex GO-5 brand at NAPA.

ATF+4 can be used in both the T-case and the power steering. In my '03 I switched to ATF+4 in the PS and it got much quieter - no more "groaning" on cold starts or on cold winter days.

It's basic, but a reminder to loosen/remove the fill plug FIRST on any component in which you're changing the fluid. Hate to drain it only to find you can't fill it back up :fca5278d:

Bob
 

HoosierJeeper

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Also- no spark plug wires to change. The coil is on top of the plug! Coils don't need to be replaced until you get a CEL code- kind of a "works or doesn't" type of deal.
 

eemain

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Remember, ATF+4 is the ONLY trans fluid that will work in these transmissions. Don't use just a standard ATF. Also, ONLY use HOAT-type coolant in the cooling system. "Universal" fluids aren't universal to these engines; you can find HOAT coolant in the Zerex GO-5 brand at NAPA.

ATF+4 can be used in both the T-case and the power steering. In my '03 I switched to ATF+4 in the PS and it got much quieter - no more "groaning" on cold starts or on cold winter days.

It's basic, but a reminder to loosen/remove the fill plug FIRST on any component in which you're changing the fluid. Hate to drain it only to find you can't fill it back up :fca5278d:

Bob

Thanks for the reminders!
 

eemain

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Also- no spark plug wires to change. The coil is on top of the plug! Coils don't need to be replaced until you get a CEL code- kind of a "works or doesn't" type of deal.

After looking under the hood closely and not seeing wires :emotions34:

watched a video yesterday and saw where the plugs were hidden :gr_grin:
 

karljp

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About ATF brand, Mopar or Valvoline ATF+4 is good choice.
 

eemain

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Local dealer says $159 to flush and change filter on ******.

Doing it myself will cost about $40 for fluid and $30 kit for the filter plus my time.

Is it a good idea to get it flushed so as ALL the ****** fluid is done.

Liberty has 75k miles with no records of ****** fluid change or known issues.
 

ridenby

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Before you drain fluid make certain that the fill plug in transfer case can be removed. Be easy with the trans pan too,it is made of light material,only use "Right Stuff" or "permatex" to reseal pan. Gasket not recommended.
 

eemain

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Going to be a busy weekend!

Put the Liberty up on ramps tonite to crawl under and get up close and personal with the undercarriage. Everything is easy enough to locate and plenty of room to work.

Going to let the dealer flush the ****** and probably the coolant at the same time.

Will start with the rear diff as that seems the most time consuming and then move to the front and T-Case.

One thing that I miss from the CRV is the drain in the ****** pan and also the DIP STICK :rofl: Was thinking of maybe getting another pan and having the boys at work install one... but then there is still the no dip stick dilemma :hmm:
Better to just let the dealer deal with it at every 30k and be done with it me thinks.

Picking up some refrigerator boxes to park on for the next few night after the work to see if there are any old or new leaks :happy3:

Picking up the Plugs from NAPA on Sat. also and hope to get them in too... along with a new belt as there is a nick or 2 in the old one.
 
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