Frankenlift II vs Tommudd econo-lift

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Wulfhound

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I don't think the Econo lift comes with a Tri-link. I know the KJ version has a the Ylink extension. I Guess I can't really say much about the KK Econo lift since I don't have that one but I think it's just clevis spacers, top plates, a-arms, Ironman springs/shocks rear JBA springs and Bilstein rear shocks.

Yep my bad-- it is a "Y" link not a tri link sorry bout that. what is that Y link for? So I still am wondering if I go with the econo 3.5" lift do I have to worry about sterring extension or anything else like that.
 

Hedsic

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Yep my bad-- it is a "Y" link not a tri link sorry bout that. what is that Y link for? So I still am wondering if I go with the econo 3.5" lift do I have to worry about sterring extension or anything else like that.

It extends the mount on the rear axle so that you can still use the factory Ylink and still get good movement. I dont' think this is anything to worry about with the KK like it is on the KJ though. Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge can chime in to help you on the quetsions about steering extension etc. I don't want to say no you don't need extensions on steering or anything and be wrong.
 

Wulfhound

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Thanks Hedsic-- I did notice that KK kit does not have a "Y" link so I assuming that the change Chrysler did by swithcing the rear to a 5 link is it is not needed
 

xIceHoundx

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I am also very interested in the initial question of: Frankenlift II premium vs Tommudd Econolift 3.5in. I have a stock 05 KJ Renegade 3.7L 6spd and looking to purchase a lift kit VERY soon and im debating between which of these two lift kits to go with, my plan along with the lift kit is 15x8 steelies with 31x10.5r15 super swampers for wheel fitment as well.
 

tommudd

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I am also very interested in the initial question of: Frankenlift II premium vs Tommudd Econolift 3.5in. I have a stock 05 KJ Renegade 3.7L 6spd and looking to purchase a lift kit VERY soon and im debating between which of these two lift kits to go with, my plan along with the lift kit is 15x8 steelies with 31x10.5r15 super swampers for wheel fitment as well.
15 X 7 / 4 inches of backspacing on the wheels works way better
Personal choice as to what kit, Econo kit comes with UCAs etc so more of a complete kit But the Franky is a good kit as well if you're not wanting to upgrade with UCAs etc
 

xIceHoundx

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15 X 7 / 4 inches of backspacing on the wheels works way better
Personal choice as to what kit, Econo kit comes with UCAs etc so more of a complete kit But the Franky is a good kit as well if you're not wanting to upgrade with UCAs etc

hmmm really, I was planning to run Cragar black soft 8 wheels with 31x10.5r15 Super Swamper TrXus MT tires. forgive me for asking but why 15x7 vs 15x8? Im fairly new to the offroading game I used to be an import street car guy so forgive the questions.

I figured either way I went as kit id get JBA UCAs, the econolift has them included which is nice im just curious as to which is a more complete kit, which is going to be more capable on road and offroad, and things of that nature.
 

greene

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I have the Tommudd econo-lift and have been driving on it for about two weeks now……

Start with the Y-Link: It installed very easily and helps with the angle of the driveshaft with the 4” springs. It is very solid connection so unless you plan on hammering it off-road. I would not think twice about it failing.
One bad thing, my sway bar hits the top Y-Link bolt. I am going to rise up the sway bar with some .25” flat steel I am hoping that will help.

The Ironman suspension is great. There is some contact with the upper control arms to spring in front with my configuration. It is not to bad, but because I am me. If it does not settle to the point of it going away I will reconfigure the front to make it clear.

The Jeepin' By Al rear springs is a little soft for me and would like it to be a little stiffer. That is just me.

Right after installation I ended up sitting, just shy of 25” in front and 24.5’ in the rear.

Now since it has settled down. I am sitting close to 24 front and 23.5 in the rear.

In my opinion the Tommudd econo-lift is a good lift but I would not do it again.

I plan on lifting my wife’s 06 Liberty. And I plan on just using the Ironman suspension with the Jeepin' By Al Upper A-Arms with no extra parts.
 

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xIceHoundx

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I have the Tommudd econo-lift and have been driving on it for about two weeks now……

Start with the Y-Link: It installed very easily and helps with the angle of the driveshaft with the 4” springs. It is very solid connection so unless you plan on hammering it off-road. I would not think twice about it failing.
One bad thing, my sway bar hits the top Y-Link bolt. I am going to rise up the sway bar with some .25” flat steel I am hoping that will help.

The Ironman suspension is great. There is some contact with the upper control arms to spring in front with my configuration. It is not to bad, but because I am me. If it does not settle to the point of it going away I will reconfigure the front to make it clear.

The Jeepin' By Al rear springs is a little soft for me and would like it to be a little stiffer. That is just me.

Right after installation I ended up sitting, just shy of 25” in front and 24.5’ in the rear.

Now since it has settled down. I am sitting close to 24 front and 23.5 in the rear.

In my opinion the Tommudd econo-lift is a good lift but I would not do it again.

I plan on lifting my wife’s 06 Liberty. And I plan on just using the Ironman suspension with the Jeepin' By Al Upper A-Arms with no extra parts.

Why would you say wouldnt you do the Tommudd econo-lift again out of curiosity. Have you done any offroading with it installed and if so what did you think? It would be nice to have to do as little modification to the suspension in terms of having to fabricate anything to keep things from making contact as im stationed out in Germany and dont have the kind of access I did to equipment or supplies to do such things, but if I gotta i'll find ways.
 

tommudd

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One of the issues with greenes is the fact he has it sitting too high
Not knocking him just a fact that you can't run at 24 inches and not have UCA/spring contact. You have to stay at or below 23 inches center of wheel to bottom of the flare to not have issues of spring contacting the UCAs

Not trying to push the Econo kit since I make nothing off of the sales of them. But its has everything you need except for bumpstops
 
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tommudd

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hmmm really, I was planning to run Cragar black soft 8 wheels with 31x10.5r15 Super Swamper TrXus MT tires. forgive me for asking but why 15x7 vs 15x8? Im fairly new to the offroading game I used to be an import street car guy so forgive the questions.

I figured either way I went as kit id get JBA UCAs, the econolift has them included which is nice im just curious as to which is a more complete kit, which is going to be more capable on road and offroad, and things of that nature.

15 X 7 will not give you the issues with rubbing etc the 8 inch will
with 4 inches of backspacing it will sit the tires out too far rubbing more on the flares when flexed and also when turning
 

Hedsic

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I've been running the Econo lift for a few months now or so. I love it. I have done a lot of offroading but not like rock climbing and ******** mudding. Most of what I have done was out of necessity rather than for fun. Mostly B level roads, gravel, Utility roads and farm road/back service roads at the lake. Most of my driving is out in the stix because of where I live as every day driving and because I prefer to fish out in the middle of no-where as opposed to the large lakes in town filled with people. :fishing1:

Obviously the suspension and lift is just one part in MANY to have a nice offroad rig but this kit is a great place to start. I will say it's comes in really handy on the farm roads and B roads when dealing with the giant divots made by the big dually pickups and farm equipment. That extra clearance has came in handy and the UCA and shocks/springs have held up well so far making it very comfortable while going through that stuff..

The ride is awesome. Driving down the road or interstate it's smooth as hell. It is a bit rough compared to say a car when out on the b roads/gravel but that is because I went with the CRD springs up front. I would still say compared to other trucks I've been in it's much smoother of a ride. The rear doesn’t feel soft at all for me unlike mentioned above. That's insane that guy is sitting at 24 with that set-up. Not normal for this kit that's for sure. If that is where it’s sitting without adding extra stuff to the kit and doing it on purpose there is something wrong. Not knocking anyone just saying it shouldn’t be sitting that high with just the kit alone.

Last time I measured was weeks ago I was sitting at around 32.875. All around. I’ll have to go see where it is now.

I would recommend this kit to anyone that asked. JBA had awesome customer service and was there to answer any questions I had very quickly during and after my order. Very fast shipping and everything.

I’ve also heard a lot of great things about the Frankenlift as well so I don’t want to sound like I’m picking favorites I just can’t make a decent comment on that kit since I don’t have firsthand experience to compare the 2 but I can vouch that the Econo lift with JBA is great and you won’t regret it if you do choose that kit.

It's a very well put together and thought out solid kit with everything you need (besides bumpstops) and the customer service you will receive from JBA is an added bonus in my opinion. (plus you get a free dvd with the UCA's :icon_lol:)

Now, how long do I have to wait for JBA to send me my endorsement check?:********:
 
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greene

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Good Morning Tom. Yes, you are right Tom it is sits to high. But are you not sitting around the same?
I would not do it again because of the rear springs are in my opinion to soft. That is why I am using just the Ironman on my wife’s jeep.

The UCA/spring contact at the height I am at is not real bad.
Offroad it is a great ride and the articulation is killer!!!!!!!!!!!

My set up in front is as follows:
1 - Clevis Spacer 0.5"
Ironman spring and struts
2 – JBA Strut Spacer Plate 0.25”
I am planning on changing the clevis spacer to the 0.375"
That should help with the UCA/spring contact and put me at level with the back.

Just food for thought guys my Liberty is for now 2wd and when I do convert it I will be using the Dana 30 Steel IFS so I can use 4:56 Ring & Pinion gear set in the front.
Soon I will be running the 4:56 Ring & Pinion gear with an Aussie Locker in the rear.

But for now my Liberty is used primarily for getting to work and jobsites (Oil Fields)

Back to the big project my Ranger 4x4 pre-runner
 

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tommudd

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No I'm not at 24 inches, i'm 3/4 of an inch lower, still have minor spring contact even now at this height

I run coil over rear shocks as well on mine along with the 4 inch springs, but then I also have the full setup RL rear bumper and carry extra tools etc
 

TheBlueKJ

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No I'm not at 24 inches, i'm 3/4 of an inch lower, still have minor spring contact even now at this height

I run coil over rear shocks as well on mine along with the 4 inch springs, but then I also have the full setup RL rear bumper and carry extra tools etc

You and 501 are running the Monroe coilovers right?
 

tommudd

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How do they ride compared to OME?
These are coilover shocks, so you still use whatever springs. These give you extra carrying capacity when towing, helps the springs support the weight. Ride is great or I think it is all the time. When I hook up any of my trailers loaded it doesn't squat down at all stays level
 

xIceHoundx

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Thanks for all the info guys, looks like i'll pick up a tommudd 3.5" econolift kit for my KJ as well. Will stock drivetrain hold up to 33x10.5r18 tires?
 

tommudd

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Thanks for all the info guys, looks like i'll pick up a tommudd 3.5" econolift kit for my KJ as well. Will stock drivetrain hold up to 33x10.5r18 tires?

:icon_rolleyes:
Get a more realistic size
33s will never fit without major hacking, need 6 inches of lift
Then you'd need to have at least 4.56 gears which would require a steel diff from JeepinByAl
Stick with 245-75-16s
 

xIceHoundx

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:icon_rolleyes:
Get a more realistic size
33s will never fit without major hacking, need 6 inches of lift
Then you'd need to have at least 4.56 gears which would require a steel diff from JeepinByAl
Stick with 245-75-16s

Haha yea just asking and seeing what the vehicle is capable of. I had planned to do quite a bit of hacking away around the fender wells and such anyhow. I planned to do something similiar to this build:
LOST JEEPS • View topic - Building my 2005 CRD, 4" JBA lift, 33" KM2, 4.56 gearing

Anything I can do to get more clearance would be helpful, and as money permits I plan on doing a steel front diff anyhow so that I can run ARB air lockers front and rear.
 

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