OME plus Daystar? CV angles?

Chrono · Nov 26, 2012

Hi all.

I have a question regarding my CV angles and amount of lift. First some background. :sleepy10:

I started off with medium duty OME926 coils and OME NS131 struts in front and medium duty OME947 coils and OME N132 shocks in the rear. The kit is advertised as providing 1.5" of lift. Recently I figured it settled to about 1" above stock, so I purchased a 1.5" Daystar spacer kit. Maximum lift without serious mods is 2.5" right? So 1" + 1.5" = 2.5". Not quite. I am sitting at 21.5" in the front and 22" in the rear. That is 3" of lift. I also added a teraflex bumpstop extension in the front and made my own bumpstop extensions for the rear. Plus JBA 4.5 A Arms. Oh, and I am on 245/70 16's.

The ride is terrible. I figured out why afterwards.

I installed the spacer inside the strut assembly (as per Daystar instructions) but with the stock top plate. The special Daystar top plate is only sold with the 2.5" lift kit. The 2.5" kit would have been way too high. I now have the problem that both the front and rear OME shocks bottom out REALLY quickly. The front is worse than the rear. I "think" I also feel a very slight vibration in the rear when I pull away.

So I have ordered N132L rear shocks. Not sure about the pinion angle or rear A arm ball joint, but I guess that should be OK. My concern is the front. I am fabricating my own Daystar-like top plate (thanks to Long Tall Texan for the CAD drawing). Hopefully that will "extend" the front strut to allow more droop. I am also worried about the CV angles. JBA reckons I will need to cut my CVs for a 3" front lift. I don't feel like doing that right now. So I am thinking of machining off some of the spacers to lower everything (can't believe I said that!)

Reading the lift measurements on this forum, I am surprised that no-one is experiencing any problems. JBA reckons I will get CV binding with a 3" lift. Everyone is talking about sitting 22" - 23" in the front without any problems!

Please have a look at the attached images and let me know what you think. I will appreciate anyone's input on this.

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Front CV angle.

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Rear diff.

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Front setup with stock top plate.

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Rear setup, Daystar 1.5" spacer.

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My own recessed bumpstop inside the spacer.

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Front.

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Rear.

tommudd · Nov 26, 2012

Start over
You're trying to mix parts that should not be mixed
Mixing new parts and worn out parts
OF COURSE its going to ride like crap!
Start over and do it right or try and cobble together what you have and spend more and more money only to end up with even more crap

Sorry to be blunt buts that is just the way it is.
Doing it right you can run higher lifts, everyone I have done is in the 22.5 -23 range when settled in with no issues, but then its done with parts that work well together.

and rereading you have 2.5 inches of lift not 3 inches. Stock height 19 you have 21.5 so hard to pull 3 from that . The springs you have are sagged out, the Daystar will only speed up the process . Again, back away and start over
THEN............your rear bumpstops are not doing anything at all since the springs would be completely compressed ( called stacking) before you even hit the bumpstop, yes better than nothing but not by much

keep adding to this .................
I have personally ran over 23 inches in front for over 125-130,000 miles with no issues, BUT again used good springs/ good parts etc

Chrono · Nov 26, 2012

Hi tom. Thanks for your valuable feedback.

By saying "used good springs/good parts", I thought OME was supposed to be good? The medium duty kit that I currently have is about 1.5 years old. I did not think it would be necessary to replace coils and shocks annually. I do agree that the spacers inside the coilover is stuffing them up - luckily I realised that quickly. Have only had them in for 2 weeks.

I extended the rear bumpstop by the same height as the spacer. I thought that was the golden rule.

So what should I be getting? Frankenlift II? That is also spacers and OME parts, but the HD coils. I don't have a heavy aftermarket bumper etc, so I would prefer the medium kit.

I've found a picture of your CV angles - looks like they are at even more of an angle than mine. I guess then that an angle as picture above is OK? Did you cut yours?

Thanks!

tommudd · Nov 26, 2012

OME is good as good as any
But you used the Mediums
Every one we do here is the 927s which are rated at 400 lb and not too rough of a ride without bumpers etc
You will not get the lift out of the mediums like you do the HDs. The 1.5 inches is about it when settled in.
So a softer rated spring , some age on them even a year or so will make a huge difference in overall ride.
For bumpstops its an inch for every inch of lift
But with the spacer in the rear springs its changes everything
The springs will be stacked before it ever hits the bumpstops

You can do the 927s, a 1/4 inch thick top plate and be at 22 or add 3/8 inch clevis at be at 22.5 , don't need the Frankenlift, just easier to install is all
My Cvs are not cut by the way

Chrono · Nov 26, 2012

I see. Reason I went for the mediums in the first place was because I read in lots of places that the 927's without steel bumpers etc. were not recommended. You're saying that I should go for that.

OK I will have to rethink my situation. Perhaps just pull the 2-week old Daystar kit out and sell it if I can. Then get the HD coils.

Thanks again for your info and time! Much appreciated.

tommudd · Nov 26, 2012

Mediums are good for the person who wants maybe an inch or so more lift and just a bit better ride than stock
I've never installed any Mediums and have never had anyone say the HDs are too stiff.
After they are broke in of course
Now you can make your own top plate
So since you are where you are here is what I would do
927s, with a 3/8 inch top plate ( made by you so no shipping etc )
leave the bottom of the shock up out of the clevis maybe 1/8-1/4 of an inch
2 extra upper iso's in the rear with 948s and I'm sure it will ride good and will last
By the way aren't you up late ?
ha ha
or at least I assume you are in South Africa ........

Chrono · Nov 26, 2012

He he, yes, I am in SA! Trying to finish a unisa assignment that must be in... in about 25 minutes actually! Instead I have other things on my mind!

Two last question though. I assume I need the HD rears as well (948's). Do I keep the extended bumpstops (front and rear) with HD coils? I see others cut a notch in the front ones for the JBA A arms. Also, are there and longer travel front shocks available than the NS131's?

Ry' N Jen · Nov 27, 2012

Chrono said:
Hi all.

I have a question regarding my CV angles and amount of lift. First some background. :sleepy10:

I started off with medium duty OME926 coils and OME NS131 struts in front and medium duty OME947 coils and OME N132 shocks in the rear. The kit is advertised as providing 1.5" of lift. Recently I figured it settled to about 1" above stock, so I purchased a 1.5" Daystar spacer kit. Maximum lift without serious mods is 2.5" right? So 1" + 1.5" = 2.5". Not quite. I am sitting at 21.5" in the front and 22" in the rear. That is 3" of lift. I also added a teraflex bumpstop extension in the front and made my own bumpstop extensions for the rear. Plus JBA 4.5 A Arms. Oh, and I am on 245/70 16's.

The ride is terrible. I figured out why afterwards.

I installed the spacer inside the strut assembly (as per Daystar instructions) but with the stock top plate. The special Daystar top plate is only sold with the 2.5" lift kit. The 2.5" kit would have been way too high. I now have the problem that both the front and rear OME shocks bottom out REALLY quickly. The front is worse than the rear. I "think" I also feel a very slight vibration in the rear when I pull away.

So I have ordered N132L rear shocks. Not sure about the pinion angle or rear A arm ball joint, but I guess that should be OK. My concern is the front. I am fabricating my own Daystar-like top plate (thanks to Long Tall Texan for the CAD drawing). Hopefully that will "extend" the front strut to allow more droop. I am also worried about the CV angles. JBA reckons I will need to cut my CVs for a 3" front lift. I don't feel like doing that right now. So I am thinking of machining off some of the spacers to lower everything (can't believe I said that!)

Reading the lift measurements on this forum, I am surprised that no-one is experiencing any problems. JBA reckons I will get CV binding with a 3" lift. Everyone is talking about sitting 22" - 23" in the front without any problems!

Please have a look at the attached images and let me know what you think. I will appreciate anyone's input on this.

You must be registered for see images attach

Front CV angle.

You must be registered for see images attach

Rear diff.

You must be registered for see images attach

Front setup with stock top plate.

You must be registered for see images attach

Rear setup, Daystar 1.5" spacer.

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My own recessed bumpstop inside the spacer.

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Front.

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Rear.

Your tires are too small.
Looks dumb.

Chrono · Nov 30, 2012

Ha! Totally agree. 245/70/16's. First wanna sort the lift out before I get new ones. Not sure what size to get. I'd like 265's but don't want to fiddle with 4.10 gears... and I think 245/75's will look just as small.

Elmer · Dec 2, 2012

245/75r16 on my OME-lifted KJ:

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Older pic for a side view:

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These are Treadwright Guard Dogs with Goodyear MTR/K sidewalls. They don't rub at all now after trimming. They did rub a good bit at full lock before cutting the excess plastic off my front bumper. And that was with the wheel wells trimmed, pinch weld pounded, and about 3.5 inches of fresh suspension lift.

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Chrono · Dec 3, 2012

Thanks for the pics Elmer. Going from 245/70s to 245/75s does make a big difference then. Sounds like you had to do quite a bit of trimming. Makes me wonder what the guys with 265's must do! I'm still waiting for my suspension components. Will see what it looks like after the lift and go from there.

Elmer · Dec 3, 2012

No problem, I'm glad to help. I've thought about going up to 265s for my next set and after the trimming I've done, I don't think they would give me any issues. You could get away with 245s with less trimming for sure.

Seems as though all KJs are different when it comes to tire rub and trimming though.

tommudd · Dec 3, 2012

Chrono said:
Thanks for the pics Elmer. Going from 245/70s to 245/75s does make a big difference then. Sounds like you had to do quite a bit of trimming. Makes me wonder what the guys with 265's must do! I'm still waiting for my suspension components. Will see what it looks like after the lift and go from there.

With proper lift nothing at all to fit

tommudd · Dec 3, 2012

Elmer said:
No problem, I'm glad to help. I've thought about going up to 265s for my next set and after the trimming I've done, I don't think they would give me any issues. You could get away with 245s with less trimming for sure.

Seems as though all KJs are different when it comes to tire rub and trimming though.

Still not sure why people trim a bunch
none or very little is needed even with 245-75s on up with the right combinations

Elmer · Dec 3, 2012

tommudd said:
Still not sure why people trim a bunch
none or very little is needed even with 245-75s on up with the right combinations

All preference. I much prefer the front bumper of the KJ without all that extra plastic hanging off the bottom.

OME plus Daystar? CV angles?

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