Timing Belt Tutorial/Advice

2003 KJ 2.4 Engine

I am wanting to buy a timing belt kit and install it myself versus paying the dealer $650+tax to do it. I have the haynes manual as well as the service manual on the computer for some reason I can understand if I can see visual pictures/videos and suggestions/tips not found in the manuals. Anyone that has a four cylinder done this themselves?

Got no pics but have done more 2.4's then I care to remember,mostly in PT Losers and what a royal pain that is with zero room.Make sure you change the water pump at the same time as it is timing belt driven.You will want to invest in a dual overhead cam holding tool,keeps the cam sprokets from turning while the belt is off and they will turn on you no matter what and gets to be a real headache,so much a second person may be needed to hold the cams if you do not have a cam holding tool.Line up the timing marks dead on,good kits will have instructions and are pretty dead on and must follow to the "T",after getting the belt on make sure you rotate the engine 720 degrees and make sure the timing marks are still dead on,if not redo.I always like to put the engine back together just enough and have another person start it to make sure it sounds good before assembling fully,make sure the crank pulley is on but the accessories do not need to be on to start and I only run it for about 10-15 seconds as if something was installed wrong it will show well within that 10-15 seconds of 1st being started.

why does the water pump have to be replaced? (not being a jerk, just don't know why)

boebr1 said:

why does the water pump have to be replaced? (not being a jerk, just don't know why)

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Because it is timing belt driven and they tend to start leaking about 10,000 miles after replacing the timing belt which means you must again redo to timing belt to change the water pump.

And why it is highly recommended to change the water pump when doing the timing belt,no more labor just have to buy the pump is all.Most timing belt engines have the water pump driven by the timing belt.So if it calls for 3 hours to do the timing belt and you do not change the water pump and it goes out 6 months later you will have to pay another 3 hours labor to change the water itself.

The water pump will be replaced same time, the quote from the dealer was for both. But like I said, I want to do this myself. I have a question, will the cam sprockets need to be removed to change the tensioner and idler pulled as it comes with the timing kits I have been looking at? I have been considering where to buy the kit from and I am either thinking of buying the mopar kit or the parts from Napa as they usually have high quality parts.

Also I remembering seeing the tool to hold the cams in the service manual but what other special tools will I need? Also part numbers or where I can get them would be very helpful.

You will also need a 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley

What about changing the tensioner and idler pulley? Do you know if the cam sprocket has to come off? Seems like I heard it somewhere but I can't remember.

Bump

auburn4193 said:

What about changing the tensioner and idler pulley? Do you know if the cam sprocket has to come off? Seems like I heard it somewhere but I can't remember.

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Replace all pulleys and tensioner as well.The cam sprockets do not need to come off unless you plan on replacing the cam seals on a 2.4.

Great, knowing this makes me more confident about doing it myself. Is there a specific cam holding tool that you can recommend? And I also know the 3 jaw puller part no. is listed in the service manual. Will the crankshaft turn easy without the belt? I don't think it wouldn't I'm no expert. So far in my mind I will start by removing fan belt and accessories that are in the way. Then remove timing belt covers. Lock the tool into place to hold cams. Then rotate tensioner to remove belt. Then replace tensioner and idler pulley. Install new tensioner and pulley and water pump. Place new belt around crankshaft and install going up and to the right then adjust tensioner into locking mode and install everything else.

I just did mine on my 2005 2.4 and used a pair of vice grips to hold the cams in proper position and made sure I double checked to make sure they did not move before reinstalling every thing.
Only had one wee bolt left over ....
Ken

Ken, did you replace the tensioner and idler pulley as well? If so was did the cam sprockets have to be removed? Tjkj said no but the manual talks about removing them as part of the procedure. Did you replace the water pump as well? Did you have to work from underneath the vehicle as well as from above? It seems there was something underneath blocking reaching into the engine bay like some kind metal bar or something. Sorry about all the questions I'm just trying to get a good mind on how to do this before I buy what I need and get started. What all did you purchase and how long did it take you?

I did not rplace the Tensioner or the idler or the water pump just the timing belt as I did not plan on keeping the car at the time. It took me and a friend who is a mechanic one afternoon to do it about 5 hours start to finish...
Laterz
Ken