Who has the best prices on ARB Air lockers?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Ry' N Jen

Banned
Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
9,242
Reaction score
12
Location
Slightly North of the 49° th. Parallel... In HongC
I was quoted $3400.00 Canadian dollars installed for front and rear ARB Lockers/compressor and 4.10 gear sets...

I'm thinking this isn't too bad for Canadian dollars!
Mind you, I think I would keep the stock gear ratios as I think that 245-75-16 inch tires are the largest I will ever run.
Yes, 265-75's would be sweet, but I don't think I really need them.

I know some here have run an ARB in the rear and a Detroit locker in the front.

What are your folks opinion on an ARB/Detroit setup?
 

tjkj2002

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
10,612
Reaction score
39
Location
Somewhere between being sane and insane!
You do not want to run a Detroit in the D30A,bad idea unless you pony up for the steel JBA version.Oh and 4.10's with 245/75's and all your armor will be alot better then 3.73's,tire size is not the only thing that effects your performance and mpg's.

I ran the Detroit TrueTrac front and ARB rear and was more then pleased with that combo,awesome in the snow and ice(ARB unlocked and in 4wd).Had no issues on some of the harder trails here in CO with that setup.
 

Ry' N Jen

Banned
Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
9,242
Reaction score
12
Location
Slightly North of the 49° th. Parallel... In HongC
You do not want to run a Detroit in the D30A,bad idea unless you pony up for the steel JBA version.Oh and 4.10's with 245/75's and all your armor will be alot better then 3.73's,tire size is not the only thing that effects your performance and mpg's.

I ran the Detroit TrueTrac front and ARB rear and was more then pleased with that combo,awesome in the snow and ice(ARB unlocked and in 4wd).Had no issues on some of the harder trails here in CO with that setup.

Thanks for the advice Troy.
 

LibertyTC

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 24, 2008
Messages
9,098
Reaction score
1,766
Location
B.C. Canada
Just reading this thread sounds very expensive.
I am going to buy an extra lottery ticket this week for Ryan and I.
Even though I would love to rear gear into 4:10s F&R and have a rear air locker, is it really necessary?
You can sure buy a lot of gas or other things for $3400 (plus tax?)
 
Last edited:

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
3,643
Location
Southeastern Ohio
Just reading this thread sounds very expensive.
I am going to buy an extra lottery ticket this week for Ryan and I.
Even though I would love to rear gear into 4:10s F&R and have a rear air locker, is it really necessary?
You can sure buy a lot of gas or other things for $3400 (plus tax?)


For the 3400 he's getting quite a bit really
sure you could buy a lot of gas
but if regearing you're going to be saving gas, the KJ will work less, run easier and cooler, yes my temp fropped on the average 20 degrees just from going from 3.73s to 4.10s
So is it needed , maybe no for some but for most the benefits outweigh not doing it
 

incommando

Banned
Joined
Jul 15, 2005
Messages
1,278
Reaction score
0
Location
SW Ohio
everyone qoutes the magical breaking point for needing 4.10's as the 1" difference from the 31'-ish tires most evry lifted KJ runs to the 32'-ish tires that get stretched on ( a total of .5" ground clearance increase-wow :pp:) But if you look at the actual rpm difference throughout the RPM range, there is generally on a couple of hundred RPM difference: (1771 vs 1951 at 65 mph, for example..wow, what a change!!!!)

If you want off-road performance, skip the ego boost of that extra .5 inch of ground clearance and expense...although some here apparantly need an extra .5" everywhere they can get it. The only true huge jump in factory or near factory performance across the RPM range and increased on road/off road performance is manning up and learning to drive the 6spd. With the same size tires, your crawl ratio with stock 3.55 gears is far superior to the expensive swapped in 4.10's and you get better MPG to boot. 265/75/16 auto with 4.10's gets you a 31.56 crawl ratio where a 6spd with the same tires and STOCK 3.55 GEARS gets you 48.2, and you save a ton of money at the pump and on parts. Again, selling your auto and picking up a 6spd is your best bet for inexpensive but clearly superior off/on road performance. The locker cost is the about the same.

Many build for bragging rights, and their use of their KJ's clearly indicates that. If you want braggin' rights and poser-ability, you have plenty of models to follow. If you want performance, well, the answer was there from the factory. Sell your auto, buy the generally less expensive 6spd, and use the savings on lockers. Then blow the posers away by actually using your jeep and outperforming them at every measure!
 
Last edited:

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
3,643
Location
Southeastern Ohio
:happy175::happy175::happy175::happy175:
Don you make me laugh more each time you post
continually trying your hardest to get someone to argue with you
so dang funny

oh and by the way I have less than 400 in front and rear gears
since you seem to think everyone spends way too much money doing them

Now I'll step back so we can hear more from the all knowing
this should be good ..............
telling what fools we all are
 
Last edited:

tjkj2002

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
10,612
Reaction score
39
Location
Somewhere between being sane and insane!
everyone qoutes the magical breaking point for needing 4.10's as the 1" difference from the 31'-ish tires most evry lifted KJ runs to the 32'-ish tires that get stretched on ( a total of .5" ground clearance increase-wow :pp:) But if you look at the actual rpm difference throughout the RPM range, there is generally on a couple of hundred RPM difference: (1771 vs 1951 at 65 mph, for example..wow, what a change!!!!)

If you want off-road performance, skip the ego boost of that extra .5 inch of ground clearance and expense...although some here apparantly need an extra .5" everywhere they can get it. The only true huge jump in factory or near factory performance across the RPM range and increased on road/off road performance is manning up and learning to drive the 6spd. With the same size tires, your crawl ratio with stock 3.55 gears is far superior to the expensive swapped in 4.10's and you get better MPG to boot. 265/75/16 auto with 4.10's gets you a 31.56 crawl ratio where a 6spd with the same tires and STOCK 3.55 GEARS gets you 48.2, and you save a ton of money at the pump and on parts. Again, selling your auto and picking up a 6spd is your best bet for inexpensive but clearly superior off/on road performance. The locker cost is the about the same.

Many build for bragging rights, and their use of their KJ's clearly indicates that. If you want braggin' rights and poser-ability, you have plenty of models to follow. If you want performance, well, the answer was there from the factory. Sell your auto, buy the generally less expensive 6spd, and use the savings on lockers. Then blow the posers away by actually using your jeep and outperforming them at every measure!
Yeah and never be able to use 6th gear and 5th is virtually useless also,not to mention killing your clutch.

You are also forgetting that in a auto the TC can give up to 2.5:1 reduction alone which is not calculated in most crawl ratio's.My crawl ratio before SFA was 33.46:1,with the TC reduction is was more like 83.64:1.
 
Last edited:

Ry' N Jen

Banned
Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
9,242
Reaction score
12
Location
Slightly North of the 49° th. Parallel... In HongC
everyone qoutes the magical breaking point for needing 4.10's as the 1" difference from the 31'-ish tires most evry lifted KJ runs to the 32'-ish tires that get stretched on ( a total of .5" ground clearance increase-wow :pp:) But if you look at the actual rpm difference throughout the RPM range, there is generally on a couple of hundred RPM difference: (1771 vs 1951 at 65 mph, for example..wow, what a change!!!!)

If you want off-road performance, skip the ego boost of that extra .5 inch of ground clearance and expense...although some here apparantly need an extra .5" everywhere they can get it. The only true huge jump in factory or near factory performance across the RPM range and increased on road/off road performance is manning up and learning to drive the 6spd. With the same size tires, your crawl ratio with stock 3.55 gears is far superior to the expensive swapped in 4.10's and you get better MPG to boot. 265/75/16 auto with 4.10's gets you a 31.56 crawl ratio where a 6spd with the same tires and STOCK 3.55 GEARS gets you 48.2, and you save a ton of money at the pump and on parts. Again, selling your auto and picking up a 6spd is your best bet for inexpensive but clearly superior off/on road performance. The locker cost is the about the same.

Many build for bragging rights, and their use of their KJ's clearly indicates that. If you want braggin' rights and poser-ability, you have plenty of models to follow. If you want performance, well, the answer was there from the factory. Sell your auto, buy the generally less expensive 6spd, and use the savings on lockers. Then blow the posers away by actually using your jeep and outperforming them at every measure!


I'd have to agree that many folks modify their Rigs for bragging rights and 0.5 inch of ground clearance extra is nothing to scream at!
But an automatic ****** has more towing capacity than a manual gear box
(Auto box: 5000 Lbs. towing limit/ Manual box 3500 Lbs. towing capacity.)
As well as easier to drive. (However, a manual in my opinion is better off road and more fun to drive!
A catch 22 situation!)
Better to have the automatic...
Especially for a gimp like me!

As far as 4:10 gears?
I don't know. Haven't tried them yet!
But if I gain 2-3 mpg, I'll take that.
Not to mention that the off road performance will be better. (Based on those KJ owners who have swapped to 4:10 and have posted their positive experiences!

Just my 0.02¢ worth...



As far as the cost involved to have ARB Lockers (and very possibly 4:10 gears installed)
I think $3400.00 isn't over the top for having somebody do the work.
I cannot install all the parts in the same amount of time that a 4X4 shop will do it in.
And our KJ is our only vehicle in the family and is needed as the daily driver!

That and I'm a lazy SOB who would rather pay somebody else to do the work and have a guaranty/warranty at the same time!

I called the Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealership we always deal with and they quoted me $1200.00-$1400.00 to have just the rear end rebuilt.

At 220600.0 KM I'd like to have the diff's fully refreshed and like new.

I am a total gear head and a real stickler for preventative maintenance and you will never hear me complain how much cash I dump into my vehicles to modify them and keep them in 100% mechanical condition!

Besides, our mall crawler needs lockers after last weekend!
That way I can justify a couple of ARB stickers on our Rig!:happy175:
 

tjkj2002

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
10,612
Reaction score
39
Location
Somewhere between being sane and insane!
I don't know if he is still around but over on LOST but Skyjump136 ran 245/75R16 MT/R's on MOAB's,far amount of armor(no steel bumpers),and installed 4.10's(and dual ARB's).From what he stated it was perfect setup with the 245's and the 4.10's.You could try and PM him,he may still check the board from time to time but not sure since he traded the KJ in for a JK.
 

Ry' N Jen

Banned
Joined
Dec 26, 2006
Messages
9,242
Reaction score
12
Location
Slightly North of the 49° th. Parallel... In HongC
I don't know if he is still around but over on LOST but Skyjump136 ran 245/75R16 MT/R's on MOAB's,far amount of armor(no steel bumpers),and installed 4.10's(and dual ARB's).From what he stated it was perfect setup with the 245's and the 4.10's.You could try and PM him,he may still check the board from time to time but not sure since he traded the KJ in for a JK.

Thanks again Troy.

I am going on the claims and testimonies of fellow members here and taking you folks at face value in regards to going forth with these mods.
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
3,643
Location
Southeastern Ohio
When I started collecting parts for mine ( to go to lower gears) I took the advice of people who had done it before, much like doing a lift. Those who had never installed lower gears in a KJ and had no real proof of what it would be like afterwards I put their remarks to the side.
just my two little pennies

and would I do it again....in a heartbeat
 

huntbuggy

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2010
Messages
215
Reaction score
0
Location
Ottawa, Canada
CAD - US dollar parity hasn't helped much with domestic pricing at ALL. (That and CAD - AUS has been strong currency pair when considering buying ARB ;) ) Buying ARB in Canada, well you know the story.

Am far away from differential work unless by breakdown, but was curious with Canadian pricing of Standard, Eaton Detroit or Yukon components compared to US just like you and it's not all that bad if you look (and consider shipping, brokerage, duty etc...)

For example, out your way close to Burnaby:

http://www.iwerearendsonly.com/index.php

(hehe Rear Ends Only - that's what she said)

Don't let the name fool ya, they also have stuff for your D30 front too.

Problem out here is finding a really good diff specialist - though I did deal with one for trucks in a larger transmission shop. (IMHO high volume ******/motive truck places were better for labour than dealer)

Let us other Canucks know what route you consider for gears and/or lockers. Americaneighbours chime in if our prices seem squirrely...
 

huntbuggy

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2010
Messages
215
Reaction score
0
Location
Ottawa, Canada
Almighty loonie...

you do know our dollar is higher than the US dollar right?

Good for ordering the small stuff they don't kill us on shipping at the moment...

...or perhaps taking a "ski trip" in the US Pacific Northwest and mysteriously coming home regeared 4.10...

:)
 

WesChapman

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
121
Reaction score
0
Location
N Idaho
I called the Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealership we always deal with and they quoted me $1200.00-$1400.00 to have just the rear end rebuilt.
:

Our local Jeep dealer quoted me $1800-$2000 to rebuild the open diff rear end in my 05. A well recommended rear end shop quoted $700-900 for the same job.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top