Problem Changing Fluid in Transfer Case

I tried this in the How-To section, but didn't get a response, so I thought I would try it here.

I went to change the fluid in my transfer case, but I couldn't get the fill plug out. It looks like someone already tried, because the 10mm allen wrench didn't fit as well/snug as in the drain plug. I only have 38,000 miles, but I just purchased it (2005 Renegade), and I would like to start with a clean slate. The F/R differentials and the transmission went fine (except for getting trans fluid all over the garage floor).

Does anyone have any suggestions? I hate to drill it out. How much heat can the aluminum case take? I was also thinking about welding the allen wrench to the plug to get it out. I'm also tempted to just leave it alone, which is probably my best bethump.gif.

Thanks,
Bruce

Use a small MAPP or PROPANE torch to heat up the fill plug. We hope you did NOT remove the drain plug, before you realized the fill plug would not come out. I had no problems getting mine out. DO not heat the CASE, place the torch flame on the plug itself, for about 15 seconds, then try it. Do not heat it up to a GLOW, you only want to heat it up enough to remove. If 15 seconds was not enough, try again...

OR, run the vehicle to operating temp, and then try to remove the fill plug.

You do not really want to drill it out, metal shavings from the drilling WILL get inside the case, and you do not want that.

Powerslave said:

Use a small MAPP or PROPANE torch to heat up the fill plug. We hope you did NOT remove the drain plug, before you realized the fill plug would not come out. I had no problems getting mine out. DO not heat the CASE, place the torch flame on the plug itself, for about 15 seconds, then try it. Do not heat it up to a GLOW, you only want to heat it up enough to remove. If 15 seconds was not enough, try again...

OR, run the vehicle to operating temp, and then try to remove the fill plug.

You do not really want to drill it out, metal shavings from the drilling WILL get inside the case, and you do not want that.

Click to expand...

Do not do this,the steel plug will expand and make it harder to remove.

Just drill a 1/4" hole in the center then use a easyout to remove the plug.After the fill plug is removed pour about 2-3 qts of ATF through the t-case with the drain plug still removed to push out any metal shavings.Easy way to reduce metal shaving getting into the t-case is to dip the end of the drillbit into grease and drill very slowly while wiping off the metal shavings and adding new grease to the end of the drillbit.

Here is another idea, and this is what I do. I use either a T45 or T50 3/8 drive torx bit socket(can't remember as it's been a while since I ran across this) and tap it into the plug with a hammer. The teeth of the torx bit grab the steel of the plug and just use a 3/8 ratchet to remove the plug. It has worked every time for me, and takes all of 2 minutes to do. Just watch how hard you hit the bit with the hammer.
And do not heat the plug with a torch!!!

Idaho08KK said:

Here is another idea, and this is what I do. I use either a T45 or T50 3/8 drive torx bit socket(can't remember as it's been a while since I ran across this) and tap it into the plug with a hammer. The teeth of the torx bit grab the steel of the plug and just use a 3/8 ratchet to remove the plug. It has worked every time for me, and takes all of 2 minutes to do. Just watch how hard you hit the bit with the hammer.
And do not heat the plug with a torch!!!

Click to expand...

Yeah that way works also,I used to do this but with a triple-square bit but the Snapon guy wouldn't warranty then anymore after the 10th one I broke in about 2 months so I use a drill and easyout now.

Yeah that way works also,I used to do this but with a triple-square bit but the Snapon guy wouldn't warranty then anymore after the 10th one I broke in about 2 months so I use a drill and easyout now.

Click to expand...

Nice!! I've only had to warranty 2 so far with the Matco guy.

I guess that I should have posted why you do not heat the plug with a torch. The plug will expand, and destroy the aluminum threads when you remove it. Then, instead of just replacing a plug, you now need a case half.#-o

I would recommend explosives. But that's just me.

jnaut said:

I would recommend explosives. But that's just me.

Click to expand...

I like the way you think.....we must be related!

I'll have to try some of the suggestions. It's strange that the allen key seats about 3/8" into the drain plug, but only about 3/16" into the fill plug. It almost looks like the fill plug is defective.

I'll keep you guys posted!

Thanks,
Bruce

tjkj2002 said:

Do not do this,the steel plug will expand and make it harder to remove.

Click to expand...

Nothing works for you, huh? What a shame...

It will expand, then when cools, it will loosen up any rust/dirt; and, if you use some PB-Blaster, will help, a LOT, once it has cooled down some. I do this stuff all the time, funny, how it seems to work for me just fine, but you just can't get anything to work for you. Sorry to hear that dude; you can't get PLATINUM spark plugs to last much past 90k miles, timing belts, water pumps, engines, transmissions... I must have ALL the luck... Lucky me, YAY!!!!

i changed out my fluid yesterday.

i had no difficulty with the plugs.

but i put some teflon tape on the threads when i put em back in.

Once you get them removed I would replace them with Hex bolts.

There is a thread about that here

I like to use anti-seize on the fill and drain plugs, never had any problem removing them.

sharpy said:

i changed out my fluid yesterday.

i had no difficulty with the plugs.

but i put some teflon tape on the threads when i put em back in.

Click to expand...

I would probably use anti-seize compound.

budke said:

When I changed my fluids my fill plug was rather hard to get off. All I need was some man strength to get it off. It came off without a problem.

Click to expand...

Where'd you find the man strength? \\/