Transmission fluid

Is there anyway that you guys know of to get ALL the transmission fluid out of a 45rfe without taking it somewhere to have it flushed?

When I changed the transmissions fluid on my '96 Blazer I dropped the pan, removed the filter, and layed on the ground next to the vehicle. I then hit the button to the remote car starter to start the engine. As soon as I saw it stop pumping fluid out, I immediately shut it off with the remote car started. It's crude, but it worked. I just don't know what the long term effects of doing something like that are.

I figured that as long as I didn't shift the vehicle I wouldn't have to worry about any of the bands burning up, and as long as I could shut it down as soon as it was dry, I wouldn't have to worry about messing up any of the seals.


It's rediculous what a shop wants.

It's rediculous doing it the way you just stated,and yes bands and such will be worn even if not put into gear and it's very ******* the TC.Plus the 45RFE needs to be in "N" for the pump to pump fluid.

A ****** flush is expensive due to the extra fluid needed(up to 24qts to flush our 45RFE's),the cleaning chemical,the tech's 1 hour flat rate,and then the machine itself which is by no means cheap for a real flush machine.

No way around it then huh. It has to be professionally done.

couldnt you just change the fluid 2 or 3 times in a row after driving a mile or so in between? Not 100% flush i know but would it be better than nothing? Stupid idea i guess??

flair1111 said:

couldnt you just change the fluid 2 or 3 times in a row after driving a mile or so in between? Not 100% flush i know but would it be better than nothing? Stupid idea i guess??

Click to expand...

Not a stupid idea at all. The first time you change the fluid you can put a drain plug in the pan and change the filter. Drive it for awhile and just drain it via drain plug and go. Do that as many times as you like.

Make sure you use ATF+4.

All I really wanted to accomplish is replacing the fluid. My Jeep had 74,000miles on it when I bought it used, and is now at 80,000. I haven't had any issues with it, but god knows when the filters/fluid were changed last.

Part of my reasoning with doing it as stated above was that it really wouldn't be much worse wear-and-tear on the transmission then the initial fill after installing a rebuilt or new transmission.

The last time I had a transmission rebuilt, the guy at the shop told me to install the transmission, put 4-5 quarts in it, start it up and then finish filling. He said don't move it until you've got all the fluid in it.

I've never worked on many tranmissions and certainly don't pretend to know what I'm talking about. I'm just thinking about this rationally.

More than likey I'll take it to a shop rather than chance screwing something up.

The last time I had a transmission rebuilt, the guy at the shop told me to install the transmission, put 4-5 quarts in it, start it up and then finish filling. He said don't move it until you've got all the fluid in it.

Click to expand...

Some ******'s you can do that since all trans hold different amounts of fliud.Most FWD cars only hold 6-8qts,the 45RFE holds 14qts.I just rebuilt/installed a 45RFE in a '02 Dakota last week,put 4qts in the TC alone before even installing it,then when the ****** was installed put another 5 in the pan then started and filled it with the other 5qts.

So how am I looking at to have this professionally done?

Should I go to a dealer or a Jiffylube type place? (I hate those places)

ShafferNY said:

So how am I looking at to have this professionally done?

Should I go to a dealer or a Jiffylube type place? (I hate those places)

Click to expand...

If your going to pay to have it done take it to the dealership.At least they will use the correct fluid since ATF+4 is all a Chrysler dealer will stock anyways.Those quick change places will use the wrong fluid or charge as much as a dealership(or more) for using the correct fluid.And if you do use a quick change place you need to make them prove they are using ATF+4,not DexIII with a additive.

i got all my fluids changed for $350. chrysler wanted 600. i asked them over and over to check the fluids and they never did. i had a greenish brown sludge in my front and almost no fluid in the back diff and the fluid that was there was a solid black. my t-case had never been changed and neither had the transmission. it took 12 flushes of the front diff to get all the water and crap out.

If you didnt have any fluid in the rear diff and the front diff had water in it, I would start a fund to replace the bearings in those soon.

Not only that but I think I'd learn how to take the fill plug out myself and check it periodically if "they" won't check it for you.

please dont listen to

please dont listen to tjkj just let him stick to wht he does best and that is fab even though his products arent even on sale

For what it's worth. (not much, lol)

I was just looking at the online manual for our 2001 Ford Taurus, courtesy of AllDataDIY.com, because it's due for a transmission fluild/filter change also.

It actually says to remove the lower transmission cooler line, attach a 3ft. peice of tubing, and then plug the fitting in the side of the transmission. Run the vehicle until the steady stream of fluid stops. Once it stops, immediately shut the vehicle off to prevent transmission damage. Never run the engine higher than idle speed.

Once all the fluid is gone, it says to fill with 10 quarts of fresh Mercon V. Reinstall the transmission cooler line, and add another 2 quarts.

I realize this may be comparing apples to oranges, but none-the-less, I thought it was interesting.

^^^ you wouldn't have to actually remove the ****** to cooler line. Just disconnect it at the cooler and put a big bucket under it. I never tried it this way so I can't say for sure but it will all pump out for sure. You do not want to run it dry. You would still have to take the ****** pan off to change the filter. And be sure to use ATF+4 and nothing elce in the ******.

Dave

Called the two Jeep dealers today. One wanted $189 just to drop the pan and change the fluild and filters. The other wanted $199 for a power flush. Go figure.

Okay. I called today and scheduled an appointment. To flush the transmission and change both filters is $300.

They charge $199 just to flush the transmission, but they leave the filters in. It's an extra $98 and some change for them to actually drop the pan and change the filters.

What the sense does it make to leave the old filter in there?

ShafferNY said:

Okay. I called today and scheduled an appointment. To flush the transmission and change both filters is $300.

They charge $199 just to flush the transmission, but they leave the filters in. It's an extra $98 and some change for them to actually drop the pan and change the filters.

What the sense does it make to leave the old filter in there?

Click to expand...

A true flush machine has a flow meter on them and you can tell when/if the filters are needing to be changed,which is usually a longer time frame then the fluid life.

In March when I had my trans flushed and the filters replaced it cost me $240 and some change after taxes at the local Jeep dealer,oh and they did the trans quick relearn for no charge since the 45RFE likes to act funny after the pan is removed for some reason(they ussually charge $80 for that service).

I thought I saw a TSB on that somewhere.