4" lift kit

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K Dje Ryu

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TokyoJoe from Colorado gets to be the guinea pig for that, I believe. The LOST Rockies guys have been mentioning it, lately.
 

tjkj2002

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Yep when Rock Lizard and I get moved into the new shop we'll be installing the 4" lift and then get to test it.Plenty of pics will be taken.


Don't whine about the price,very quility parts(Eibach springs,stainless braided brake lines,and such) is most of the price,not some cheap poly parts and crappy shocks and saggy springs(the supplied springs are rated at 450lbs,40 mor the stock CRD springs and 50 more then OME HD springs).
 

o8k

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too tall i think i would fall over!!! =D
wonder what "small cut" they are talking about.... =D
 

icarl

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Yes that is a pretty fair price for the kit especially since it includes "One cool looking Jeep Liberty". lol.
 

icarl

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After looking at the lift it looks like they bypass the max 2.5" lift issue by simply cutting 3/8" off of the CV joint. So, does this mean we can increase other lifts (like the frankenlift) as well by just cutting some of the CV joint? If this is true then with the frankenlift you could put a clevis lift on as well to reduce tire rub for the larger tires and not have to worry about the CV joint.
 

CRD4Liberty

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You're not looking close enough. There are a full set of new longer upper control arms also in the lift that have bigger, stronger and have greasable ball joints unlike the stockers. Seperately they are over $300 to put on the 2 1/2 inch lifts to help pull your stock geometry back into the range you need to do a good wheel alignment. The ball joint boots also don't hit the springs at full droop and hold up well off road as tested by many of us.
In the back without the part that goes on the yoke you'd never be able to drive the rig due to massive vibration in the drive shaft and the rear wheels so far forward they'd be in the front parts of the rear wheelwell all the time and tearing off your flares.
Take the time to take a peek under your rig, this 4 inch lift and the 6 inch to follow have a lot of engineering in them you haven't noticed. Just raising the front and rear of your rig off the ground, let'er droop and watching what all happens can teach you a lot.
 
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tjkj2002

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You're not looking close enough. There are a full set of new longer upper control arms also in the lift that have bigger, stronger and have greasable ball joints unlike the stockers. Seperately they are over $300 to put on the 2 1/2 inch lifts to help pull your stock geometry back into the range you need to do a good wheel alignment. The ball joint boots also don't hit the springs at full droop and hold up well off road as tested by many of us.
In the back without the part that goes on the yoke you'd never be able to drive the rig due to massive vibration in the drive shaft and the rear wheels so far forward they'd be in the front parts of the rear wheelwell all the time and tearing off your flares.
Take the time to take a peek under your rig, this 4 inch lift and the 6 inch to follow have a lot of engineering in them you haven't noticed. Just raising the front and rear of your rig off the ground, let'er droop and watching what all happens can teach you a lot.
You might want to rethink some of your views,I'm sitting at 3.75" of lift and have not modified my CV's and no problems,and have removed my vib wieghts on the rear diff(the KJ balls) and wheel alot here in the mountains of CO on trails that Others have pleaded not to take a KJ on,with zero problems.
 

icarl

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You're not looking close enough. There are a full set of new longer upper control arms also in the lift that have bigger, stronger and have greasable ball joints unlike the stockers. Seperately they are over $300 to put on the 2 1/2 inch lifts to help pull your stock geometry back into the range you need to do a good wheel alignment. The ball joint boots also don't hit the springs at full droop and hold up well off road as tested by many of us.
In the back without the part that goes on the yoke you'd never be able to drive the rig due to massive vibration in the drive shaft and the rear wheels so far forward they'd be in the front parts of the rear wheelwell all the time and tearing off your flares.
Take the time to take a peek under your rig, this 4 inch lift and the 6 inch to follow have a lot of engineering in them you haven't noticed. Just raising the front and rear of your rig off the ground, let'er droop and watching what all happens can teach you a lot.

Good advice on taking a look underneath first, however you seem to have missed the point I was trying to make. That is that they circumvent the 2.5" max lift problem with the CV joints by shaving 3/8" off allowing for the axle to have more travel reducing binding. Maybe I'm blind but I don't see anything in his kit that deals with the CV joint issue any differently other than the advice to cut the CVs. And, all those other things you mentioned can be added as needed to a 2.5" lift anyways as many end up doing (Al's A-arms, etc). I was just wondering about how to safely add a little height to a 2.5" lift to reduce tire rub without wrecking the CVs. Now, having said all that I wonder what are the problems that can occur from cutting off the 3/8"? CV joint cracking perhaps?:eek: Perish the thought!:D
 

kjpilot

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Just ordered mine today! (bling) Should be sleeping on the sofa tonight!(whistle)

Those rear control arms are optional for the 4" kit. the blue KJ has his 6" kit.
 

Ry' N Jen

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Good day,
First off, I don't like the term "Cut" off the face of the C/V joint.
I would like to add that you would need to "Machine" with a laith or horizontal borring machine (over kill)

Machining 3/8 of an inch off the face of the C/V joint (including machining a new groove for the C/V boot to seat it properly) should not affect the integrity of the C/V joint itself. As long as the inner carrier ( ball cage attached to the axle) has adequate depth inside the C/V housing at full droop/extension.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3a/Simple_CV_Joint_animated.gif

I doulbt that Jeepin by all would market a lift kit that wasn't fully developed.
 

kjpilot

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According to Marlin, you can also remove the 3/8" from the face of the CV cup with an angle grinder, sawzall or a band saw... that'd be cutting!

I am opting to have mine modified through machining with a lathe. seems like a better idea to me.:cool:
 

K Dje Ryu

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Some days I love my job. :D I run a CNC lathe. However, it's gonna be a long while before I can even consider either of Al's new lifts. I might do a 6" but it wouldn't be til after I've paid off my KJ and have something else for a DD.
 

Ry' N Jen

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Some days I love my job. :D I run a CNC lathe. However, it's gonna be a long while before I can even consider either of Al's new lifts. I might do a 6" but it wouldn't be til after I've paid off my KJ and have something else for a DD.


Ya, I grew up with a father who is an areo space machinist (now retired after 60 years of service for Boeing, Hawker Sidley, to name just a few.)
We also have a full service machine shop at his house.
I have also contemplated developing my own lift kit. The only problem is the fact that all the R&D would cost more than if I bought a kit that already exists on the retail market.
 

kjpilot

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In the real world, you would have it done as I said earlier.

Perhaps you missed the part where I wrote that mine are being machined on a lathe, because it sounded like a better idea? Kinda like as you said earlier.:p
 

flair1111

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where can i get a hood like his?? I really like that one.
 

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