2004 Jeep Liberty Renegade
- Thread starter xxdazxx
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Atrus
Full Access Member
A scan tool should tell you which bank and if it's the upstream or downstream sensor. Usually there are different codes for each. Upstream - important, controls A/F...downstream, not so much - emissions.
im getting an error P0185
Looked it up and it says that an o2 sensor have a 12v problem.....doesnt say which one, i dont have a scan tool and no one i know has one
Autozone, checkers, pretty much any auto parts store can help you out. Most do it for free.
And everwhere I look on the internet shows:
P0185 Fuel Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit. Definately not an O2 sensor.
Perhaps you mean:
P0158 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2. That's passenger side, downstream of the cat.
Perhaps you mean:
P0158 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2. That's passenger side, downstream of the cat........Thats the Error Im getting ill replace that sensor thank you
Atrus
Full Access Member
P0158 - aka, not that important IMO. Emissions - means the sensor is bad or something is wrong with the catalytic converter. Heck, could even be 1 out-of spec reading. Clear the code and see if it comes back.
Side story - on my Prix, I had a high-flow cat and exhaust put on. I didn't really want to deal with the O2 sensor going nuts later on, and to pay for the bung to be welded in. I got an "02 spoof" that simulates the signal from the O2 sensor. On occasion, it'd throw a code, so I'd just clear it (maybe 2-3 times in 60k miles). Mostly due to water...huge puddle would set it off. My justification was that I didn't bypass an emissions system - the cat was there...I just killed the warning system. MI has no testing, so it'd be the same as the 15 year olf van driving around with the CEL light on. I figured I was legal and safe ;-)
Point of my story is that I didn't have one for 60k miles and it was just fine. Front O2 is critical for air/fuel mixture.
Autozone for sure will scan it for free.
Side story - on my Prix, I had a high-flow cat and exhaust put on. I didn't really want to deal with the O2 sensor going nuts later on, and to pay for the bung to be welded in. I got an "02 spoof" that simulates the signal from the O2 sensor. On occasion, it'd throw a code, so I'd just clear it (maybe 2-3 times in 60k miles). Mostly due to water...huge puddle would set it off. My justification was that I didn't bypass an emissions system - the cat was there...I just killed the warning system. MI has no testing, so it'd be the same as the 15 year olf van driving around with the CEL light on. I figured I was legal and safe ;-)
Point of my story is that I didn't have one for 60k miles and it was just fine. Front O2 is critical for air/fuel mixture.
Autozone for sure will scan it for free.
Thanks for the info, my engine light did go off the day after it came on, maybe it was just that, i dont have an autozone anywhere near me so im s.o.l on having it scanned unless i go to my dealer. ill just keep an eye on it and see if my light comes back on, do i still need to reset my battery even if the light went off? and do i disconnect the positive? thanks alot for all your help!
Atrus
Full Access Member
I wouldn't worry about resetting it. If it went out, it was most likely a fluke and the sensor went out of range for a fraction of a second.
The code will most likely be stored in the history, but it's not an active code now as the light is off.
For resetting the PCM, you could pull either. I usually do the negative. Haven't had to on the KJ, but for my Prix to fully reset, I'd pull the negative and then open the door (so the light tries to drain any residual power). People claimed it took 30 mins - I used to leave mine overnight. After 30 mins I could tell the trans shift points weren't reset, overnight I definitely could tell they were. Maybe the KJ is the same, maybe different, I really don't know.
The code will most likely be stored in the history, but it's not an active code now as the light is off.
For resetting the PCM, you could pull either. I usually do the negative. Haven't had to on the KJ, but for my Prix to fully reset, I'd pull the negative and then open the door (so the light tries to drain any residual power). People claimed it took 30 mins - I used to leave mine overnight. After 30 mins I could tell the trans shift points weren't reset, overnight I definitely could tell they were. Maybe the KJ is the same, maybe different, I really don't know.
alright sounds good thanks a lot for the info, ill let you know if it comes back on.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
L'incredibile potenziale di ChatGPT Italiano: Un Saggio- Latest: chatgptitaliano