Recent content by 67Customs

Ha! lol Nah, I just kinda stopped modding the Jeep and nothing has broke on it in a long while *knocks on wood* so I kinda stopped comming around. I about forgot how cool the people on this forum are. First place I checked when I had a question, though. :insane: BTW, I pulled the trigger on...

I haven't visited this site in over a year, but it is good to see a familiar face still holding down the fort. :wave: I really think my only issue may be the pinch weld and I'm not scared to knock it down. I've been searching an hour or two a day for four straight days and I just can't...

Just eyeballin' the tires while turning before leaving work, looks like the only thing may be the pinch weld. I dunno. Like I said before, some people have switched their 16" stocks with 16" MOABs and it looks like it changes the extension (even a little more) as much as I'm talking about with...

2005 KJ Limited 3.7L w/chrome clad 17's. I tried painting the chrome clad wheels twice now (two different methods) and the paint keeps flaking off. I'm done with them. Looking to buy new wheels (tires are still fine), but most websites that offer wheels for the KJ in 17" are garbage...

Don't hold me to this, but I don't think they release them until a couple of years have went by after the last year of that model has completed. I couldn't find one for my 2005 until a couple of years ago. From Haynes: Q: Why can't I find a manual for my vehicle? A: Two possible...

In my case, I was the mechanic, and yes, I cleaned the mounting surfaces really well and I torqued everything to the specs in the FSM. The shimmy is only in the steering wheel, so it seems to only be the front brakes. And again, my rotors were NAPA Ultra Premiums and I've been told they are...

I have a 2005 and I had some pretty bad steering wheel shake upon braking. Same situation as you talk about. Exiting interstate about 65 mph, or going down a steep hill at higher speeds. They stock pads eventually wore down and it was time to switch. After quite a bit of research, I...

From what I can tell and read, it isn't close to the same sludger it use to be. Although, I'm not an engineer nor do I break motors down very often. And, I mostly only use Mobil 1, so I don't have very much experience with anything else. Lastly, I only used QS for one or two 5k changes...

I personally don't think it is totally marketing B.S. The Chrysler 3.8L in my '06 T&C is know to use about a quart per 3K miles. at 90K miles, when I bought it, I switched it to Mobil 1 0W-20. It used about a quart over 5k miles. I switched it to Quaker State High Mileage 5W-20 at 100k...

Unless you are losing some oil during the oil change interval, then there is no reason you should switch from what you currently use.

Found it. Thanks! The kit was about $40. Going to try and change it this weekend. I hope it helps. I'm sure it will.

Is there anyway you (or someone else that has done it) can provide me with a picture of the general are in which the newPCV adaptor goes into the cylinder head? Thanks.

You layered Supernatural on top of Rainforest on top of Hard Candy? Why? I would tend to think this would keep Supernatural from showing it's best shine and keep it from lasting as long. I would apply a pure sealant like Klasse Sealant Glaze and then add Supernatural. Talk about some...

Kicker DS6.2 components in the front doors and Kicker DS60 coaxels in the rear doors. Tweeters from the components are mounted in the stock tweeter locations.

Same thing for me. It cloggs up my PCV and my mileage has to be suffering some.