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The PCM is a "living" machine. It is constantly receiving and interpreting feedback information from all of your sensors... plus the TCM (trans control module)... and constantly adjusting engine behavior. If you do a swap, you need to go over the complete checklist I posted regarding...

Any chance a mechanic has recently replaced injector #2? If "yes" and the replaced injector is not either a true new-in-sealed-box Mopar or Bosch part... then its probably a garbage aftermarket (or "rebuilt") injector will generally go bad after a couple of weeks/months.

I went through 2 AC compressors in the last 8 years. Aftermarket seems to last about 6 years.

If you need any kind of sensors, injectors, electronics, etc... and you are unfamiliar with Quadratec, recommend that you go here... https://www.quadratec.com/ ...they sell nothing but top-shelf OEM parts that are 99.999% Mopar equivalent and reliable. If you use them, look up the recognized...

I think what you are talking about is the *sensor* at this point... not the cam/crank, right? If so, I strongly recommend that you buy any/all *sensors* from either (a) Mopar directly, or (b) https://www.quadratec.com/ . Quadratec sells Crown Automotive manufactured OEM parts that are...

Observations: If your original engine blew a ring, or anything else that caused filthy/smokey exhaust, that will trash your O2 sensors and catalytic converters. This will cause all kinds of runtime problems. Any good garage should be able to diagnose a bad cat. Use new, sealed box upstream...

Engine replacement checklist: https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/engine-replacement-checklist-kj-2002-2003-and-maybe-2004.80359/

SUCCESS A lot of false leads, but I finally got all of the installation issues resolved. I have posted a simple engine replacement checklist here: https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/engine-replacement-checklist-kj-2002-2003-and-maybe-2004.80359/

This is an effort to share experience and knowledge related to replacing a Liberty 3.7L engine specifically for a 2003, but I am 99.7% confident that it also applies to 2002 and 2004. Theoretically, this checklist should also apply to *all* Chrysler PowerTech 3.7L V6 motors regardless of...

Have you solve your problem? If "yes" congrats. If "no" and you wish to continue the effort to solve the problem(s) read on. I have a 2003 3.7 4x4 and have just finished an engine replacement, that was complicated by old parts that exceeded life expectancy. You can pretty much count on 150K...

Sounds like you got it!

Note that PCMs are programmed very specifically to your vehicle build sheet, and the best way to make sure you get a matching PCM requires your VIN. If you opt to replace your PCM, strongly recommend getting a new one from Flagship 1 (highly reliable).

Please clarify, are you still throwing a misfire code? The moment a misfire code is thrown, the PCM will kill the signal to the problem cylinder until you reset the PCM. The cylinder will not fire until you either (a) clear the code with a scanner reset which is good for about 50 miles, or (b)...

Lol, ingenious! Greatest compliments!

That is great news. If the code pops again, please let me know. I replaced my PCM and it had no long term effect. When you replace the PCM you disconnect the battery, which effectively causes a hard reset of the PCM. My P0304 came back after about 120 miles. Subsequent hard resets might go...

Home made noid looks like this. Handy because you can simply plug the electrodes into the FI injector connector housing and tape the bulb to the top of the air intake where you can see it from the drivers seat when you start the KJ.

The coupling is a pressure-snap contraption, and you definitely need that Evercraft 776-9082. Prying at it with screwdrivers will wreck the coupling. You close the correct tool cuff around the tubing, slide the cuff down the tube inside of the coupling collar, and the coupling pops right off.

To clarify, did you physically swap your COPs or just rearrange them while they were still attached to their wires? The true test is to unplug, swap COP positions, plug in the correct wire per cyl, start car, drive it and see if the problem stays with the COP instead of the cyl. If it stays...

The Fuel Rail for *all* V6 3.7L Jeep Libertys (and pretty much anything that ever used the 3.7 V6 Powertech engine https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_PowerTech_engine) requires a special tool to disconnect the main fuel line feeder hose that attaches at the rail. According to the Jeep...

I posted a detailed explanation of how to build/install (a) Fuel Injector and (b) Ignition Coil wiring harnesses from scratch. If you do this, do not use silicon wire... lesson learned was that the wire strands in silicon are very flexible... so use 18awg TXL stranded wire for the injector...